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04 GT Will not stop bogging when launching...

2K views 25 replies 5 participants last post by  SoCal2V 
#1 ·
I have an 04 GT auto only mods are off road x pipe cat back and a intake..

The highest rpm I can launch at without wheel spin is 2000 and that's with nitto NT555's EVERY time I launch this slow piece of crap it bogs no matter how it do it, Its like all Rpm's die out around 3000 rpms for a split sec then it picks up again and its killing my 60foot times. I keep running mid 15s. I only had ONE good run and god knows how I did it and I ran 14.07. Other then that this has been horrible... I have tried everything. I just came back from country road practice and all it does is bog before picking up power... What should I do besides keep slapping myself in my face for selling my 98 z28?

But really I'm beyond mad and cant find a technique to stop the bogging...
 
#2 ·
Your going to have to increase that launch rpm. If it bogs at 2000, try 2200. If it still bogs, try 2400 and so on. A little spin is ok, so long your leaving strong. To much spinning is bad out the hole, your going nowhere. If it spins about 3 or 4 feets and then hooks up, that's a good launch. If your bogging, that's bad.
 
#3 ·
The only auto I have any experience with is my bro in laws '03... I wouldn't quite say that it get bogged out, but 1st gear mashing the happy pedal from a dead stop is pretty underwhelming. Foot still pressed to the floor, it's a little slushy going into 2nd but once it hits, 2nd and 3rd are ok as far as acceleration goes. Bone stock btw. Does that sound like what's happening to you? And I can't get any wheelspin out of it unless I stand on the brakes or maybe take off from a dead stop while making a turn.

Sounds to me like gears will help (obviously... and if I recall correctly you already have those on the way), next up since you have an auto would be tune followed by new torque convertor w/ about 3500 rpm stall. Those 3 should make a day and night difference.
 
#4 ·
I agree , gears , converter and tranny reflash will wake up that auto , make you glad you don't have a manual .
 
#7 ·
Could be your torque converter , looks like it's flashing to somewhere around a 2800 rpm stall . If it was flashing to 3800 it would put a smile on your face . Are you going wot immediately or squeezing on the throttle ? Gears will make a huge difference , really increase torque at the tire contact patch getting rid of that bog . A tuner will tighten up shift firmness , squack the tires and snap your neck at 1st to 2nd shift .
 
#8 ·
So something is wrong with my torque converter? I will be doing 4.10s after my tuner. So the tuner will help remove that delay or not? And I have tried wot and rolling into it. It don't seem to make a difference at all. The car wants to run low 15s sometimes high 14s because thats killing my 60 foot times. I need it to GO when I hit it

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#10 ·
The car runs great. If i hit it in first gear from a 15 or so roll it goes. I have this same post up on another mustang forum and it seems other auto guys have this problem and i have them freaking out. I would hope a car with 50k dont need new coils yet

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#13 ·
No there is nothing wrong with your torque converter , it's doing exactly what it should . It's a stock low stall pos . That's how they work , they are a fluid coupling between the engine and transmission . To get rid of the bog you need to inrease the gearing and/or converter stall speed . It's that simple . Your stock converter will not tolerate too many brake stand launches , not enough friction material and what is there is poor quality .
 
#15 ·
I see I see. So 4.10 gears = problem gone? Because that right there is whats killing my 60foot and making my car run high 14s..

I will be getting the 4.10s as I said, So what about the Bama tuner? Will it clear some of that up in 1st gear?

My tires are 245/45/17s NITTO NT555
 
#14 ·
What rear wheel/tire are running , not a 18" or 19" I hope .
 
#16 ·
4.10's will solve the bogging issue but you will probably light those 245's up in fact i can't believe they are hooking up for you with the 3.27 gears .
You will need a tuner to correct the speedometer after the gear change , so you can reflash the tranny and engine parameters at the same time .
 
#18 ·
No, no, no, now don't start backpedaling on the 4tens. Wheelspin is just an indication of insufficient suspension components. You don't need to go crazy and spend $10K; start with some lca's, you will find them quite effective even by themselves. DR's wouldn't hurt either.
 
#21 ·
Here is a good thread on educating yourself on torque converters . Research as much as possible before deciding if you need one or not then make sure to pick a quality product .

Torque Converter education - LS1TECH

This pertains to LS1 cars but much of the info and manufacturers are relevant .
 
#22 ·
Agree with the 'rolling into the throttle' technique. Once it shifts outta 1st you should be fine to push it all the way. DR's will help a lot, but you really need some suspension dude. Control arms and sfc's, and some shocks like Lakewood 50/50's to help with weight x-fer while still being streetable should get your short times well under the 2 second mark. Doing that on street tires is pretty much impossible so maybe start with dr's and improve from there. And something else to keep in mind (it just never ends) is the stock axles; once the car starts hooking up it may only be a matter of time before they take a sh!t. If you can swing it, and you're serious about going to the track you should try to get 31 splines and a matching diff together and have it installed with your gears so you only have to deal with tearing into the rear once instead of twice.
 
#23 ·
Looks like it takes a lot of extra stuff for them mustangs.. i might just get the 4.10s and play it easy off the line then go all out. If i had the money for that other stuff sure. I only have two years left of payments after that I'm upgrading to a newer stang

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#26 ·
Dirty throttle cable? You mean as in like, sticky or not freely moving? You'd feel the resistance or whatever in the pedal, so no on that one.

It's hard for me to tell in that vid, would be much easier in person when you can actually feel what the car is doing, but the way the rpms hang at 3K for a half second makes me think it's just the trans being slushy, like it's in between or about to shift but not quite committed to performing the action yet. If what I'm saying is correct, I'm pretty sure a tune to adjust shifting firmness and points should make it go away. Btw, have you looked into J-Modding that thing? I did a little looking around one time and found the modified and assembled valve bodies somewhere for under $100, and swapping the valve bodies (without taking yours out and performing the modifications yourself) looks to be a pretty simple affair from what I could tell. You really should look into doing this.
 
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