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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, so bear with me gents, this is my girlfriends car, and I've about had it with this problem. Her car had been randomly stalling, and about 3 weeks ago it just died. After doing some initial troubleshooting, I found the fuel pump was still priming when you went to RUN, but when you tried to start the car, none of the plugs were firing, so naturally I assumed it was the coil pack. Replaced it, same problem. Then I immediately went to the crankshaft position sensor, since it won't fire the coil unless that was working. Found out that the harmonic balancer had separated and ate through the magnet on the position sensor, so after replacing both of those, car still wouldnt start.

So then I went into finding that problem, and now the fuel pump wasn't even priming when you went to RUN. So I checked the inertia switch, all the relays and fuses. All the fuses were good, and all the relays are working. I also checked the voltage on the black/pink stripped power wire for the pump, and with the key in OFF, 0v. Turn the key to RUN, and I get 12v, so I figured it was the pump. I changed the pump out today, and now I can hear the pump CLICKING when I go to RUN, but thats all. Car won't start. A few times, it sounded like it wanted to, but she wouldn't light off. I'm at a loss.

Anyone have this issue?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I haven't checked it, because like I said, the pump is getting 12v (which is controlled by the ECM) and the spark plugs are firing (which is controlled by the input from the crank position sensor to the ecu to the coil pack) and they are in the correct order. So it doens't make sense for it to be the ECM. The thing that makes this weird is that the pump could be heard audibly priming before the harmonic balance change. Immediately after changing it (and not touching anything else on the car except disconnecting the battery) the pump couldnt be heard priming with 12v going to it.
 

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Was the car throwing codes before it died completely?
 

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Was the car throwing codes before it died completely?
it should have a engine light on from the random stalling. when it was stalling ( cause if you had a code, that would be the key right there)

did it restart and have no power, like it was in limp home mode? ive had a pulley come apart too, but it didnt damage the sensor. in fact i changed it a couple times and have a udp on it now. are the wires to that sensor ok?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yes, the check engine light would come on, however it would go away as soon as the car started again, like normal. When you try to check on the code, its not going to show up because the conditions for the code aren't met.

As for the balancer, the rubber on the inside completely disintigrated, and the outer part of the balancer walked its way towards the motor, resulting in the serpentine belt slipping off and start running around the (now visible) inner pulley of the harmonic balancer. The outside portion was now pushing itself against the sensor, completely eating through it to the point where once it reached the magnet on the inside of the sensor, it cut the coil off and thus it stalled.
 

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Yes, the check engine light would come on, however it would go away as soon as the car started again, like normal. When you try to check on the code, its not going to show up because the conditions for the code aren't met.

As for the balancer, the rubber on the inside completely disintigrated, and the outer part of the balancer walked its way towards the motor, resulting in the serpentine belt slipping off and start running around the (now visible) inner pulley of the harmonic balancer. The outside portion was now pushing itself against the sensor, completely eating through it to the point where once it reached the magnet on the inside of the sensor, it cut the coil off and thus it stalled.
If the car threw a code at some point, it will be kept in memory, with the light not indicating current running conditions.
Are you getting good spark? If so, how is your fuel pressure?
 

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check your catalytic converters I had the same problem and when I finally got tired of replacing **** that aint broke I sent it to the dealer and found out the Converters were CLOGGED !!! Go figure ............and my car WASNT blowing ANY codes either:bigthumbsup
 

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ya, thats how they come apart, that rubber lets loose, and its pretty common. enough so i think fords should be replacing them for free, but that aint gonna happen.

if it was running great up to that point, i would have to think the problem is related to that crank sensor/wires. you might have to take it to a dealer to pinpoint the problem.
 
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