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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So after I buy my Shelby GT (not 500) next week i will have about an extra 8,500 to spend on mods/labor. Should I:

A. Go s/c (which one), and mean loud exhaust (which one), tune

or

B. Go Exhaust 3" all the way; and suspension all around (what a good suspension pkg).....can i tune w this route?

will either of these routes get me into the low 12s? if not, how do i achieve that time. Personally id rather be able to do this with bolt ons but ill let you guys tell it. THanks!!
 

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Bag the 3" exhaust. Not needed. Slap a Kenne Bell 2.6 on there and you're into the 11s with the appropriate suspension mods.
 

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With a stock block and an S/C, your looking to pull around 480rwhp which will land you a 12.5 (my friend had the same power but with a whipple) that is with no suspension mods.

Now if you have complete suspension you should hit 11's with no issue.

My cars best with stock suspension and 545rwhp was a 11.9 at 122mph.

MMR 5.0 950 3399
ARP Headstuds $269.99
Stage 2 3 Valve $600
Lethal Performance Ultimate PRO Fuel System 1,699.00
Nitrous Express Adjustable Kit-15lb Bottle 649.99
Fidanza Mustang GT Aluminum Flywheel 299.95
Spec Mustang GT Clutch Kit (Stage 2+/ 10 Spline) 409.99

Give or take you should spend around 8,500 with labor and install. Slightly higher then going S/C but this way you have a built block, Ported Heads and a 500rwhp car that is bullet proof. The only thing else that you might need to buy are injectors and a maf.

I am sure I am missing some thing but this will give you a completely over kill car when it comes to fuel and reliability. Which is great for preparing your car for an S/C

The only reason why I say buy a NO2 kit is just to get the power while you save up for the S/C. The good thing about the kit is that it should be easy to get rid of once you buy your S/C.

Just wanted to give people another view of ways to build up there cars. I know the S/C is the easiest way but I think if I could do it all over again I would of went this way just so my car would not of set blown up in the garage for 6 months while I waited for parts, money and a build.

With good suspension you should hit mid 11's no problem as well. I pretty much just got bored here and wanted to post some thing and give other people other idea's for there car.
 

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Just out of curiousity, what are you paying for the GT?

I'm just wondering if you pay 35k/36k and have another 8k you wanna spend, why not get the GT500. You'll end up saving money cuz you will be getting a built bigger motor.

Shelby GT + SC = 35k(car)+7k(SC) = 42k
GT500 = 43k MSRP

Just thought I'd throw that out there :)
 

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If you get a supercharger and some sticky tires you can do 11s all day long
 

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Just out of curiousity, what are you paying for the GT?

I'm just wondering if you pay 35k/36k and have another 8k you wanna spend, why not get the GT500. You'll end up saving money cuz you will be getting a built bigger motor.

Shelby GT + SC = 35k(car)+7k(SC) = 42k
GT500 = 43k MSRP

Just thought I'd throw that out there :)
Very good point... oh and also, that GT500 would be warrantied by ford.. and if you get a Shelby GT and put a KB or any mods to it, you wont have a warranty.. Some people dont care about warranty because they have plenty of money incase something goes wrong, but also theres the fact that the GT500 has a fully built motor right? where as you can later slap a KB on it and push insane numbers out of it.. while the Shelby GT only is the stock 4.6L in the GT with a few things like intake and tune, exhaust.. which youll be limited to how much power you can produce.. where as the GT500 the sky is the limit..(in theory)

If the GT500 is 1k more.. get that.. the motor is its strong point, you wont be limited..
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Just out of curiousity, what are you paying for the GT?

I'm just wondering if you pay 35k/36k and have another 8k you wanna spend, why not get the GT500. You'll end up saving money cuz you will be getting a built bigger motor.

Shelby GT + SC = 35k(car)+7k(SC) = 42k
GT500 = 43k MSRP

Just thought I'd throw that out there :)
For the shelby GT im paying 27,500+TTL (1,719.85)+tags (600)=$29819.85 walk out, Finance 48MOS @ 5.4% 625/mo plan to pay off in 36mos; blk w grey stripes has 95miles.

have about 8,500 cash saved that was going to be for a dwn. pymt , but after "no consideration" i am being impatient and want to order parts on monday and have installation done by Friday or sooner!

Is it possible to get into the low 12's with out a power adder or slicks but with just bolt ons! I've been debating weather or not to add the s/c simply because i know it cuts the motors life by as much as 50%. Even though im not a big racer I just want something i can get on when ever i need to! I feel like being in the low 12's gives me a small step over "MOST" cars on the road today.

Tell me what yall think.:bigthumbsup
 

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For the shelby GT im paying 27,500+TTL (1,719.85)+tags (600)=$29819.85 walk out, Finance 48MOS @ 5.4% 625/mo plan to pay off in 36mos; blk w grey stripes has 95miles.

have about 8,500 cash saved that was going to be for a dwn. pymt , but after "no consideration" i am being impatient and want to order parts on monday and have installation done by Friday or sooner!

Is it possible to get into the low 12's with out a power adder or slicks but with just bolt ons! I've been debating weather or not to add the s/c simply because i know it cuts the motors life by as much as 50%. Even though im not a big racer I just want something i can get on when ever i need to! I feel like being in the low 12's gives me a small step over "MOST" cars on the road today.

Tell me what yall think.:bigthumbsup
No it's not possible with just boltons(excluding the SC as a bolton). You would need some kinda engine work whether it be Cams, SC, or spray.

I've seen high to mid 12s with everytihng else(slicks, CAI, longtubes, 4.10 or 4.30 gears, and a really good driver). Oh and possibly a lot of suspension work.

And a SC will NOT cut the life of the engine by 50%, thats complete crap. If it's a track car and the only kinda driving you do is the 1/4 mile. Just hard driving maybe you'd kill a non built motor, but if it's just typical driving, no way you would hurt the engines life by that much.
 

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Yeah the S/C wont cut engine life by 50%.. Ive heard blowers like roush are not the best for the motor, but if your getting whipple or kb youll be fine.. plenty of people have them on stock motors and run the hell out of them, as long as they are within the 8-9psi range,
 

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Yeah the S/C wont cut engine life by 50%.. Ive heard blowers like roush are not the best for the motor, but if your getting whipple or kb youll be fine.. plenty of people have them on stock motors and run the hell out of them, as long as they are within the 8-9psi range,
The roush isn't the best on the motor because it doesnt put out a lot of power? Or it's literally bad for the motor?
 

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The smart move, if you have that much extra cash, would be to have your Shelby GT converted by Shelby to the GT/SC. They install the supercharger and the revised striping. All is fully waranteed by Ford (in spite of what others say above), and you end up with a much rarer and more desirable car than a GT500. They've made way too many GT500's and they are still making them in '09. I don't think you'll find a new GT500 for less than $48K, not $43K as mentioned above.
 

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For the shelby GT im paying 27,500+TTL (1,719.85)+tags (600)=$29819.85 walk out, Finance 48MOS @ 5.4% 625/mo plan to pay off in 36mos; blk w grey stripes has 95miles..:bigthumbsup
You're getting a great deal there I think for a year old slightly used model. Is it being sold to you as-new w/ full warranty?
 

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The smart move, if you have that much extra cash, would be to have your Shelby GT converted by Shelby to the GT/SC. They install the supercharger and the revised striping. All is fully waranteed by Ford (in spite of what others say above), and you end up with a much rarer and more desirable car than a GT500. They've made way too many GT500's and they are still making them in '09. I don't think you'll find a new GT500 for less than $48K, not $43K as mentioned above.
There are plenty at 43k.. all the ones by my dealer are 43 for a coupe..

The roush isn't the best on the motor because it doesnt put out a lot of power? Or it's literally bad for the motor?
Ive heard that its actually bad for your motor because it produces alot of heat..? could be wrong, but thats what i was told on the forum by somebody..but it sounds kinda odd/wrong to me because roush has been doing this for YEARS apon YEARS, so they gotta know what they are doing.. Also it does suck that you get stuck at 8psi.. :(
 

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No it's not possible with just boltons(excluding the SC as a bolton). You would need some kinda engine work whether it be Cams, SC, or spray.

I've seen high to mid 12s with everytihng else(slicks, CAI, longtubes, 4.10 or 4.30 gears, and a really good driver). Oh and possibly a lot of suspension work.

And a SC will NOT cut the life of the engine by 50%, thats complete crap. If it's a track car and the only kinda driving you do is the 1/4 mile. Just hard driving maybe you'd kill a non built motor, but if it's just typical driving, no way you would hurt the engines life by that much.
Mid-12s are doable but agree it'll take more to get to the low 12s.
 

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have you considered a slightly used GT500??? if they are going for 43K ( much envy to you guys in the states btw) then a year old one is certainly gonna take 5 or 6 K off that, you'll be right where you want to be..either way I wish I had your dilema!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
have you considered a slightly used GT500??? if they are going for 43K ( much envy to you guys in the states btw) then a year old one is certainly gonna take 5 or 6 K off that, you'll be right where you want to be..either way I wish I had your dilema!
yea! right! tell me where i can get a GT500 for 38-40K. Mabe i missed something, but is the HYPE over! because these ebay prices are still kinda HIGH!
 

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IMHO, one should work from the ground up. Tires, brakes, suspension, drive line, then motor (power adder). It gives the driver a lot of feedback as the car transformed without having to chase distractions of adding too much power first. Just $.02.

P.S. TCS off makes things much more fun. It becomes an unconscious response after start up soon enough.
 

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+1 on the GT500 trade thing

but if you still want to keep your car, dont get the 3" exhaust you dont need that, get a whipple for sure.
 

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GT500's are still going for 50+

I would not add a S/C unless you can afford to rebuild your motor including if it is bad enough replace your heads.

Bolting on an S/C from the factory will give you around 415hp. They are really detuned and Extremely safe. It is the only way to keep the warranty. Personally I do not trust my dealership to do this type of mod for my car.

You can get into the mid to high 12's with these mods.

4.10's
LCA w/relocation bracket
UCA
CAI +Tune
Alum Drive Shaft
Slicks

Running slicks is the only way you are going to get a good time. I have seen a car pull a 10 with street tires once but it was a mid 9 second car with slicks

For me I dont get the hype with FI on stock blocks. You are paying 7k for 120ish HP give or take depending on the tune.

You can bolt a 100 shot of Nitrous for 700$ I mean it is nice because you all ways have the power but do you plan on tearing up the streets and racing to every light? Or just once and a while have a little fun.

Now if you had a built block that skys the limits with the S/C my S/C is giving me over 280 addition HP on pump gas and 400

Even if you spend all your money on an S/C it will be tough to get into the 12's because you are still missing a few critical mods that you need to get there other then HP and that is a Drive Shaft, Suspension and Slicks.

I have seen many N/A cars that are set up really well destroy FI cars on the track because all they are is a Stock GT with a Supercharger.

Just some food for thought I know I may sound negative but its not all about HP.
 

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Also, think about what you want to build the car for. Going straight quickly for a quarter mile on weekends as a primary goal will pre-select a different build route. A daily driver may choose another, while a road racer may choose yet another path. It is probably the single most important question to ask yourself before you start ordering stuff. Where do you want your torque on the curve; why and how much will attain the balance necessary for the project? Food for thought. :)
 
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