[GAZRNR]

I drive a 2012 GT/CS automatic with stock wheels & brakes. The car is not raced, it is just a weekend fun car. I have installed FFRP P springs, Koni STR T shocks/struts and J&M panhard bar and have been pleased with the results for the past 12,000 miles. In my current configuration I have not experienced any wheel hop even with the car lowered one inch. I am adding a Roush TVS supercharger and have been told that the added power most likely will induce some wheel hop on hard launches.

The recommendations I have are to start with the lower control arms as the bushings will be a weak point anyway. Then see how the car reacts to the power and how I drive it...from there look at lowering brackets for the LCA's and then the upper control arm & mount. There are many brands and options & combinations of parts that folks are using to fix the wheel hop...for LCA's and I am leaning towards the Steeda billet LCA part # 555-4405 or 555-4406 or the BMR TCA109 LCA as my current choices as a starting point.

I am looking for input from folks with a blower car/automatic and if they experienced the dreaded wheel hop and what you have done to stop it.

I have done a lot of reading on the boards and the more I read the less sure I am on how to proceed...your input would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Rusty

 

[PMDmustang13]

You lowered your car. Not sure if you have a stock driveshaft or not. And you are going to supercharge it. I would definitely upgrade the LCA's, install LCA relocation brackets, and get an adjustable UCA with new mount and dial in that pinion angle. I would not cut any corners there.

 

[csamsh]

Upper is a bigger deal than lowers. You need LCA relo brackets too. Get adjustable arms.

Remember- the whole point of changing a control arm is to get a better bushing/bearing. The pretty "arm" part of is just a piece of metal regardless of who put a logo on it.

You also need better (wider) wheels and stickier tires if you expect the car to work with a supercharger on the street.

 

[mjohns930]

The P springs shouldn't have lowered the car enough to for sure need relocation brackets. Since you have an auto, I would try better tires (drag radials) before I upgrade all the control arms, especially since you haven't experienced wheel hop yet. Autos have gone 9s on stock suspension with good tires, and there is a reason for that. The stock stuff is not bad, and the auto doesn't usually hit the rear suspension hard enough even with big power and lots of traction. If you don't hook or get massive wheel hop with sticky tires then look into the control arms and relocation brackets.

 

[silverstate777]

I don’t race or track either, just a daily driver and began with a ‘14 base model GT. I went with the Roush phase 1 SC which is probably one of the mildest setups going for forced induction with an automatic. That is, if you use the supplied Roush 91 calibration like I do. Before the SC, I did the suspension first, using these kits:

Mustang Performance Suspension Kit 5.0L V8 (2011-2014)

3rd Link Wheel Hop Reduction Kit for Mustang (2011-2014)

Also, FRPP GT500 (rubber bushed) lower control arms and FRPP panhard bar was added to the mix and I run 285/40/18 rear tires. No wheel hop issues at this point. Perhaps a bit of suspension overkill, but it works for me and I enjoy the handling upgrade. No doubt that wider/sticker tires will be needed for future power level increases.

 

[BMR Tech]

Of course I am bias, but I think that if you are going to jump into an aftermarket LCA, and you want poly...you should really consider our TCA032. They are $89.95...feature excellent quality, are proven, have grease fittings and are made right here in Tampa, FL.

These arms (TCA032) are flying off our shelves, for good reason. Excellent bang for the buck. They are also much lighter than the OEM pieces. Less deflection, straighter launches, less weight, and less than $100.

On a combo like yours, if you have a good tire, you may not notice a "huge" gain or difference, but the car WILL perform better and be more consistent. It will also have less tendency to sway under heavy load due to the decrease on deflection (which causes rear steer / thrust angle inconsistency)

If you have any questions, let me know!

Good luck!

 

[PMDmustang13]

I don’t race or track either, just a daily driver and began with a ‘14 base model GT. I went with the Roush phase 1 SC which is probably one of the mildest setups going for forced induction with an automatic. That is, if you use the supplied Roush 91 calibration like I do. Before the SC, I did the suspension first, using these kits:

Mustang Performance Suspension Kit 5.0L V8 (2011-2014)

3rd Link Wheel Hop Reduction Kit for Mustang (2011-2014)

Also, FRPP GT500 (rubber bushed) lower control arms and FRPP panhard bar was added to the mix and I run 285/40/18 rear tires. No wheel hop issues at this point. Perhaps a bit of suspension overkill, but it works for me and I enjoy the handling upgrade. No doubt that wider/sticker tires will be needed for future power level increases.

I think the FRPP GT500 lower control arms you put on were similar to these. http://www.amazon.com/Ford-Racing-M-5538-A-Control-Mustang/dp/B003TPB8EK

Please let me know if I am correct or if what you purchased and installed appears to be the same as in this advertisement. And if the ones that you removed looked different than these in the ad. One of the reasons I ask is that I removed the lower control arms on my 2013 mustang track pack and they looked similar to this advertisement. My OEM LCA had one large slotted hole in midsection of arm where these have 2 large slottd holes. By the way I installed the BMR LCA's and relocation brackets and my wheel hop disappeared.

I installed BMR TCA019's (old version which are now the new TCA019's I believe) on my car a couple years ago. And at that time they were $139.95 which is the cost of the new improved TCA019's.

These here are the TCA032's which are similar to the TCA019's with slightly smaller tubesTCA032 - Lower Control Arms, Boxed, Non-adj, Poly Bushings | 2005 - 2014 Mustang GT | Lower Control Arms | BMR Suspension - High Performance Suspension & Chassis

They have then made some modifications to the original TCA019's (I think the bushings) to make and provide upgraded TCA019's
TCA019 - Lower Control Arms, Boxed, Non-adj, Poly Bushings | 2005 - 2014 Mustang GT | Lower Control Arms | BMR Suspension - High Performance Suspension & Chassis

Here is what the differences are according to BMR They look very similar to the TCA019, and there are only a few small differences that we made, to get the cost down.

"The tubing on this TCA032 is 1"x2"....compared to the TCA019's 1.5"x2"

The TCA032 is slightly lighter. It weighs about 3.5lbs each, compared to 4lbs each for the TCA019. (OEM is 6lbs each)

The TCA032 is MIG welded, instead of TIG welded.

Moral of the story, the TCA032 cost us less to build, so we are passing the cost savings on to the customer. We could have just changed the TCA019 to this, and REALLY pocketed some coin - because the TCA019 are our most commonly sold LCA here at BMR, out of all the LCA for 15+ cars.

The TCA019 is going to eventually get our new bushings that we have been working on for over 2+years. This LCA was basically made to take the place of the TCA019."

Anyway here are photos of my stock LCA's that I replaced. They look like GT500's. Did your 2014 OEM LCA' look like these?

 

[silverstate777]

I think the FRPP GT500 lower control arms you put on were similar to these. Amazon.com: Ford Racing M-5538-A Rear Lower Control Arm Kit for Ford Mustang GT: Automotive

Please let me know if I am correct or if what you purchased and installed appears to be the same as in this advertisement. And if the ones that you removed looked different than these in the ad. One of the reasons I ask is that I removed the lower control arms on my 2013 mustang track pack and they looked similar to this advertisement. My OEM LCA had one large slotted hole in midsection of arm where these have 2 large slottd holes.

Anyway here are photos of my stock LCA's that I replaced. They look like GT500's. Did your 2014 OEM LCA' look like these?

Hmmm, The lower control arms in your Amazon link look very similar to the Ford Racing M-5538-A that I purchased:

Ford Racing Mustang Rear Lower Control Arms M-5538-A (05-14 All) - Free Shipping

The visual difference between the Amazon/FRPP LCA types is the rivet construction. To further compare, my ‘14 GT base model w/automatic transmission came from the factory with these lower control arms:

 

[csamsh]

Pretty sure the difference is in the bushing- if you tested the durometer of the stock rubber vs. the FR rubber, I believe the FR ones (and the Brembo GT's, Boss, and GT500) bushings are a tick harder.

 

[PMDmustang13]

Pretty sure the difference is in the bushing- if you tested the durometer of the stock rubber vs. the FR rubber, I believe the FR ones (and the Brembo GT's, Boss, and GT500) bushings are a tick harder.

That would make sense then. Thanks for the input.

 

[NoVa5.0]

As others have noted, if wheel hop is your concern, it's your upper rear control arms (and their bushings) that need to be replaced. In your case, I would also think replacing your rear LCAs is a good idea, but it's the UCAs that have the most impact on wheel-hop.

Ford used very soft bushings in the UCA for NVH reasons, and they're the main culprit for wheel-hop. Be aware that replacing your UCAs with after-market ones with stiffer bushings will cause an increase in NVH from the rear of the car.

 

[csamsh]

As others have noted, if wheel hop is your concern, it's your upper rear control arms (and their bushings) that need to be replaced. In your case, I would also think replacing your rear LCAs is a good idea, but it's the UCAs that have the most impact on wheel-hop.

Ford used very soft bushings in the UCA for NVH reasons, and they're the main culprit for wheel-hop. Be aware that replacing your UCAs with after-market ones with stiffer bushings will cause an increase in NVH from the rear of the car.

only one upper!!!

 

[NoVa5.0]

only one upper!!!

You learn something new every day.

 

[Sharad]

We run this setup on our Blower/Automatic S197. The car runs 9s (with a 1.35 60-foot time on DRs)

11-14 Mustang 5.0L Street Rear Suspension Package III

^^These parts are Made in America and they carry a Lifetime Guarantee. These aren't door buster economy arms. They're American Made chrome-moly, tig welded, with Energy suspension bushings. Good stuff!!

 

[Don's Stang]

I have a roushcharged automatic, same springs


when I put the P springs on my car, the only thing I noticed was some rear end bounce over expansion joints or bumpy roads, but not bad

I since added whiteline LCA brackets, and LCA's which got rid of the bounce, plus it now hooks better. No wheel hop at all, even with the stock upper.. I since did the BMR upper, but more because I drag race


You might hear a little tiny bit more noise with aftermarket control arms, but not much. I am very critical about noises, and none of those mods bothered me at all

 

[edillen3953]

BMR LCAs are the best bang for your buck. Under 100 bucks with grease fittings. Solid pieces and install is as easy as rotating your tires.