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might need a new torque converter with a higher RPM stall-speed?
 

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might need a new torque converter with a higher RPM stall-speed?
And or tuning to allow the revs to be higher when holding the brake and the gas. A lot of times the ecu will not let you rev past a certain rpm when the brake is held all the way. It’ll rev up to X rpm and just kinda stumble and bog. The cruddy part is that the rpm at which it happens is lower than the stall speed. The wheels aren’t even close to starting to move.
@KarsonS197 are you revving up the motor by holding the brake and gas or are you just launching off idle?
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
And or tuning to allow the revs to be higher when holding the brake and the gas. A lot of times the ecu will not let you rev past a certain rpm when the brake is held all the way. It’ll rev up to X rpm and just kinda stumble and bog. The cruddy part is that the rpm at which it happens is lower than the stall speed. The wheels aren’t even close to starting to move.
@KarsonS197 are you revving up the motor by holding the brake and gas or are you just launching off idle?
I think I launched at idle most all of the time my best reaction time was a 0.0979. Which I think to be pretty good. I may have to practice next time I go 🤷‍♂️

I think I launched at idle most all of the time my best reaction time was a 0.0979. Which I think to be pretty good. I may have to practice next time I go 🤷‍♂️
Do you think I haven enough HP to get down the 1/4 with what I have? Or more upgrades
 

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You need to launch with enough rpm to get you moving but not enough to where you just spin in one place.
Pay no attention to reaction time or to the “green light.” The clock doesn’t start running until you “break the beams.” One could sit there ten minutes after the light turned green and still get a 10 second 1/4 mile. Next time you go leave when you’re ready. I usually sit there a second after it turns green in attempts to get a good launch. Reaction time only matters if you’re racing someone else in a bracket racing type situation. It doesn’t equate into the overall time it takes to go down the drag strip. Maybe before you go if you can find a place to do it, practice “launching it.” You don’t have to get going real fast, but it’ll be loud. Hold the brake all the way down. Slowly give it gas until the wheels start to move. Remember that RPM. So now that you know at what rpm the wheels start to move rev it to just under that rpm while holding the brake, let off of the brake and floor it. If it spins in one place try again at a little lower rpm. It’s always going to spin with street tires. But you don’t want too much or too little.
@Bullitt95 says he launches at 2k and gets a 1.88 60’ and runs a 12.5 1/4 with bolt-ons.
Practice driving some more prior to ordering parts.
 

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and I think Bullitt95 is driving a manual, which makes it harder . . . so apparently it CAN be done without any more HP

the right burn-out can help a bit too . . . with street tires, as I understand it, you want to clean the tires but don't get them super hot because they will get greasy instead of sticky
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
You need to launch with enough rpm to get you moving but not enough to where you just spin in one place.
Pay no attention to reaction time or to the “green light.” The clock doesn’t start running until you “break the beams.” One could sit there ten minutes after the light turned green and still get a 10 second 1/4 mile. Next time you go leave when you’re ready. I usually sit there a second after it turns green in attempts to get a good launch. Reaction time only matters if you’re racing someone else in a bracket racing type situation. It doesn’t equate into the overall time it takes to go down the drag strip. Maybe before you go if you can find a place to do it, practice “launching it.” You don’t have to get going real fast, but it’ll be loud. Hold the brake all the way down. Slowly give it gas until the wheels start to move. Remember that RPM. So now that you know at what rpm the wheels start to move rev it to just under that rpm while holding the brake, let off of the brake and floor it. If it spins in one place try again at a little lower rpm. It’s always going to spin with street tires. But you don’t want too much or too little.
@Bullitt95 says he launches at 2k and gets a 1.88 60’ and runs a 12.5 1/4 with bolt-ons.
Practice driving some more prior to ordering parts.
Seems like a good idea. @Bullitt95 what bolt one / other mods do you have.
 

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see Bullitt's post earlier in this thread where he details his mods -- in the link at "Parts"
 

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and I think Bullitt95 is driving a manual, which makes it harder . . . so apparently it CAN be done without any more HP

the right burn-out can help a bit too . . . with street tires, as I understand it, you want to clean the tires but don't get them super hot because they will get greasy instead of sticky
Yeah no burnout necessary with street tires really.
Drive around the water box.
 

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ive got an auto trans any way I would be able to launch at a higher Rpm?
For you, getting into the 12's would be easier than it is for me since you have an automatic that'll execute gear shifts quicker than I can. You already have 4.10 axle gears and if you add a 3000rpm stall converter plus tire/suspension upgrades to improve traction, you'll bring home a 12-sec timeslip.
You already have some power adding mods but you could also gain a further 15rwhp by adding underdrive pulleys and charge motion delete plates, plus a custom tune to adjust for the latter and to increase shift firmness.
 

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This evening I tried to foot-brake my Nissan Titan and it was lack luster. When I floored it while holding the brake it revved up to 2k and just kinda stayed there and the tires didn’t budge. It didn’t work like a line-lock or “launch control” either exactly because when I let off of the brake the rpm’s dropped rapidly back down to around idle and then the truck started to move forward at a not so brisk pace. It even chirp a tire. It didn’t let me leave from the 2k rpm that it was limiting it to. At first I was thought maybe to would and that would be “good” but it didn’t. My wife had an ‘07 Expedition that wouldn’t let you do a burn out or launch with any sort of RPM either. If you held the brake and gas at that one it would rev up some and then just bog down. If I do it in my fwd 2012 Maxima it will rev to like 2k then drop to almost idle and then back up again, but if I hold it under 2k it’ll stay put but it won’t leave at the rpm it was held at. I’m assuming this is a “safety feature” in the stock “tune” for the transmission so you don’t blow it up.
Y’all with newer auto Mustangs see if it’ll let you rev the motor until the tires spin while holding the brake. If it will not then the auto is at a disadvantage vs the manual, and the first mod that I would make would be to find away to eliminate the “transmission safety nannie.” I’m fairly certain that more rpm off of the line will result in a faster time than the same rpm off of the line and twenty extra hp. That being said, the more rpm the stickier the tire needs to be. But any amount of rpm is better than leaving off of idle.
 

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I think what you're describing is the torque management and it can be disabled in the tune.
 

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What do you guys feel is the best drag radials to get?
I think if I were going to buy a dedicated set of racing tires a bias ply would be the way to go as far as bang for buck. Nothing is ever good at doing two things. A drag radial wouldn’t be a “good” street tire or a “good” drag tire. It’d be so so at both. Get a bias ply with the tallest sidewall that will fit.
 
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Fastest anyone had with a confirmed et in an S197 was 12.8 in a 1/4 mile (all stock, with oem tires) so work on your driving...
 

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Fastest anyone had with a confirmed et in an S197 was 12.8 in a 1/4 mile (all stock, with oem tires) . . .
that would be a stock Coyote which is up about 100 HP or 30% on the OP's 4.6, right?
 

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I ran [email protected] with my full weight 08 gt premium just a couple weeks ago. My car is a manual though. My 60ft was terrible too 2.2xx I’ve since added a few suspension mods like adjustable lowers relocation brackets adjustable upper with poly rear end bushing and a panhard bar. But I ran the 12.88 on stock suspension with mt et streets the rest of my setup is jlt cold air, sr underdrives, Ford racing manifold, gt500 tb, Howard rattler cams, 3” exhaust no cats or mufflers, 4.10 gear. On a Lito tune. I did have the spare tire removed but everything else plus 1/2 tank of gas. My goal is to get comfortably into the 11’s on a 100 shot. The car is a blast on the street with the bottle opened just haven’t gotten to run it at the track on the n2o yet. Hoping to make it next Wednesday night though.
 

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What kind of mods do yall have that are running in the 12s on the 1/4 mile. My best time I ran was like a 13.48 or 13.49 last time I went. When I ran I had the following mods

Detroit rocker cams
4.10 gears
Air raid cold air Intake
Magna flow exhaust
Throttle body space( lol)
And sct tuner

I have now have added
Pypes 1-5/8” long tube headers
And Catted x pipe

I have auto trans, what should I work on?
98mm turbocharger
 

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that would be a stock Coyote which is up about 100 HP or 30% on the OP's 4.6, right?
I didn't see where the op stated his car year so my bad... Also, I didn't see that it was an auto, the 12.8 was a manual, so again my bad...
 

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I didn't see where the op stated his car year so my bad... Also, I didn't see that it was an auto, the 12.8 was a manual, so again my bad...
I think the coyotes with autos have generally been quicker than their manual counterparts.
 
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