[nvallery]

Hello Everyone

I have a 1964 mustang with a 260cid Windsor in it.
I am looking to make some more power out of it and want to get it running as good as it can be without going too far from original, or getting into the guts of the engine or opening the heads.

My thoughts were....
MSD Electronic Ignition.
Headers (Dont know what kind or material, suggestions welcome)
Edelbrock Carb. (welcome to suggestions on which one)
Aluminum intake (yet again unsure of which, suggestions welcome)
EGR Delete.... (have not been able to find any info on how to do this or if there are any kits for it)

I believe this is the right way to go with it but I am welcome to suggestions if you think there is a better approach.

Thanks guys, looking forward to your responses.

 

[Al Newman]

In order of "Bang for your buck":
Dual Plane aluminum intake w/ no more than 550 cfm carb. a well-rebuilt Autolite 4100 480 cfm carb would be ideal; else an Edelbrock 550 cfm.
Camshaft - such as Competition 260 or 268 grind for automatic or 268-270 grind for standard - (don't think 260 Mustangs came with standard) Best to step up to roller setup, but pricey. Good time to replace timing chain, also.
Pertronix ignitor II points replacement for distributor - hotter MSD systems most probably won't improve your bone stock 260 noticeably. Ignitor II won't, either, but will eliminate messing with points.
Long tube headers - a royal pain for a little gain.
The 260 is a great little power plant with a lot of racing history. The 289 and later 302 has more potential.
The 5.0 has more potential still.
Best,
Al

 

[Ivy66GT]

EGR Delete.... (have not been able to find any info on how to do this or if there are any kits for it)

Exhaust Gas Recirculation

260s never had EGR, neither did 289s. That is an emissions thing from later years to control NOx emissions. Nobody could even spell NOx until around 1972. Many cars didn't get EGR until late in the 70s.

 

[RF Mustang]

Al is correct in that the Long Tube headers wont gain you much. If it were my decision, I'd opt for the Hipo Exhaust manifolds. Most of the mustang houses sell the repos or you can look for a set of originals on ebay. They sound great and will help you keep the "original look" you are wanting. You would have a clean looking dual exhaust set up and mimimize the loss of ground clearance compared to using headers.

Mustang Exhaust Manifold Pair 289 Hi-Po 1965-1973 | CJ Pony Parts


If you were to choose some long tubes, look for a set of good tr-Y's.

H8426-1 Mustang Pertronix Tri-Y Headers Ceramic Coated 260/289/302 1965-1970 | CJ Pony Parts

 

[nvallery]

Hey guys, great info! keep it coming!
For the Dual plane intake can I use one from a 289? or do i have to find one that is 260 specific? any links to ones that are recommended.

I agree with you guys regarding the manifolds. do you know if they make them in any other finishes?
Also, how much work is it to replace a camshaft in one of these, do I have to remove the heads? I have done it on a dirtbike before but I am assuming this is substantially different lol.

If i dont have EGR on this then what is this? (pcis attached.) it goes from the one manifold to the exterior of the air filter.

Thanks again guys!

 

[scrapman]

That is the "stove pipe" for lack of a better term that helps your engine run good in cold weather.

 

[RF Mustang]

Intake manifolds are of the same spec for the 260,289, 302. Exception is a boss 302 or any 302 made after 1984 (somebody correct me here on the correct year in the 80's) Same goes for headers as well. Even the 351W headers are of the same bolt pattern.

If you want your intake finished in something other than the aluminum finish, you usually have to paint it yourself or have it powder coated. There may be some edlebrocks available in a black finish but if you want some other color, you will need to do it yourself. (I prefer the powdercoat). KSB makes a good fuel proof engine paint you can use.

No need to remove the heads if your installing a mild camshaft but you will have to also replace the lifters when you do install a new cam. Replace the timing chain as well. Keep a mild camshaft as reccomended. Otherwise, you will have to pull the heads to install correct valve springs, keepers, screw rocker studs, guide plates, and at the least roller tip rockers. If this happens, might as well spend a couple more bucks on a valve job.

I'm guessing at the picture but it looks like it would be the choke tube and tube running to the air cleaner. Suprising this stuff still exists on the car considering how old it is.

 

[Ivy66GT]

As scrapman indicated that is a picture of the stove hardware for your automatic choke. It supplies heat to the choke coil (small tubes) to release the choke when your engine warms up and also warm air (large black pipe) to the thermostatic air cleaner intake snout. Without it your automatic choke will never work. Not that it works all that well anyhow, but that is another topic.

Nothing from that hardware draws any exhaust fumes and what it does draw only makes it into the intake air stream as 100F air through the air cleaner.

BTW, a Mustang 260 had Ford light blue valve covers (not the Corporate dark blue of 1966). Red ones were for '63 full-sized Ford, '63 Falcon, '63 Comet, '62-63 Meteor or '63 Fairlane. The very first 260s on a '62 Fairlane had Ford Argent (i.e. silver) valve covers to distinguish them from the 221's which had Ford light blue valve covers.

http://www.fordsmallblock.com/