[Gearhead65]

My 1965 Mustang coupe, with a 289 V8 engine, is having some issues. The other day while driving, my clutch pedal started sticking to the floor. I immediatly checked the internal system(which i had to work on last year) to see if something was physically blocking the pedal. No such luck. So I used some WD-40 on the moving parts, in case something had gotten stuck. Once again, no change. So from what I've researched it could be the transmission fluid, or my cluch could be bad. Please help me, driving it is not safe at the moment.

 

[Print Dad]

965 Clutch pedal sticks to the floor. Please help I'm desperate!!

Hello Gearhead65,

FIRST - -Welcome to the forum. You will learn a lot here and you
will get answers to your isuue.

Do not get too nervous about this - I know easier said than done.

Now for a little info for you. You will also need to give us a little more
info so we can try to determine what is happening.

Here goes - - The clutch pedal sticking down could be the result of
many things - -some of which are not too bad at all.
I will list several BUT do NOT get freaked out - -as I said it could be easy.

1. - Bad clutch, pressure plate - -HANG OFF on this one for now
2. - Binding in the pedal linkage
3. - Broken/missing return spring - - - my first guess
4. -Clutch rod not adjusted correct
5. - Bushing on the equalizer" (Z-bar) bad,


So how do we determine what is going on?

First - -you need to tell us a little more so we can diagnose

1. - Does the car move?
2. - Does the pedal stick down EVERY time?
3. - You said you worked on the internals? What does that mean? Did
you work on the pedal area or the clutch?

So what I am thinking is we start with the simple and go from there.

The easiest could be the return spring has broken or fallen off.
If you can - please let us know a little more and I am sure we will get and answer
for you.

Just so you know - -the transmission fluid would NOT be part of this problem.
On a manual transmission - the fluid would be more of an issue for shifting
BUT would NOT be an issue with the clutch pedal

Let us know - and try to not get too nervous - - worse case - a new clutch assembly
but that is NOT too bad of a job.
BUT it is more likely it is something simple

Print DAd

4. - If you step on the clutch and lift up on the pedal - does the clutch engage
and start to move the car

 

[Tony 64]

I would be checking and putting a bush kit through the 'Z' bar first, it could be locking up on you and not releasing the pedal.
My clutch felt brand new after replacing the bushings.
By the way there is now fluid in a standard 65 setup.

 

[Gearhead65]

oops

Sorry for the lack of info, but thank you for the responses. To Tony 64 what i meant by internals was the Z bar, and I already have new bushings on, which worked really great until now, but i dont think this is the bushings fault. And to Print Dad, I have checked and the spring is still in place and functional, also no fun to replace while working on the pedal systems and the z bar. I had read something about limiting the free play space on the clutch system(Ie the thing coming through the actual firewall) by moving the connecting bar further from the firewall? I'll try to find a picture to show what i mean. And yes the car DOES move, if i drive VERY carefuly and only feather the clutch in, without pressing it all the way, it will reingage and drive. This problem started out little, the pedal would stick a little and return slowly, then a few hours later if i push it all the way in, i have to pull it back out with my foot, causing it to drop into gear, shaking the car.. Hopefully this helps! thank you!

 

[Driveway]

Don't forget the linkage, spring, pedal, and bushings under the dash. Do a complete visual inspection of everything with a good light and mirror.

 

[Print Dad]

Hello Gearhead65,
Your symptoms are starting to concern me a little.
It MAY be the pressure plate is going.

BUT

Before pulling things apart you want to be certain what is going on.

Here is a good diagram I found on the forum - - there are 2 springs
involved with the clutch.
The first is up inside the interior (where the pedal is)

The second spring is located under the master cylinder - - it attaches
to the "Z" bar.

I am still not certain your clutch pedal is adjusted correct.

Perhaps this diagram will help a little and then we can go from there

There are 2 adjustments - - look at the diagram
The first is the rod #7521 - - this is where the pedal rod attaches to the "Z bar
The second is the adjuster - that runs from the Z-bar to the clutch fork

We will get this figured out

Print Dad

 

[Guest]

Remove the clutch rod that goes through the firewall, from the Z bar [equalizer bar]. Move your pedal by hand. If it has a spring, it should spring to the floor once the pedal is depressed slightly more than half way. Irregardless, your pedal should travel smoothly without binding. If it is binding, the pivot bushings under the dash are bad. Major bummer.

Another thing that occasionally happens. If the car has a high perf pressure plate it can bend/twist the Z bar [equilizer bar]. This causes loss of adjustment. Inspect it for bending/twisting.

 

[Gearhead65]

Umm ok?

Ok so while i was unhooking part #7521 from the Z bar, nothing seemed off.. After having it unhooked, the pedal didnt pull itself to the floor right away. After I pumped it a few times, it pulled itself to the floor. No idea why. But now it works fine, no catches, tightness or anything.. The whole time the bushings worked fine and smoothly, which is nice because I already replaced those with the upgraded ones... Thank you for your help!! :worship