1965 mustand trouble turning over after consecutive starts

BryceTryce said:

The engine just cranks for a long time and i really have to pump the gas while the engine cranks before it turns over. but when i start it in the morning, i dont have to pump it at all.

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Hi
So, let's better define a couple of sequences. An engine will crank, then fire. Now, when you mention "tuns over", this would lead us to believe it's cranking. So, are you saying in essence, it takes cranks longer before "firing" after running for some period? Or, is it not cranking quickly, or, as quickly as when cold? The reason I offer these specifics, as each has it's own set of potential reasons for not doing their intended job very well.
If it's not cranking (turning over) when fully warmed or hot, as quickly, then, as someone mentioned, it could be a "heat soak" situation, wherein, the starter motor's windings can be suspect. If it doesn't fire or start running, then, it could be a vapor lock situation, wherein, the fuel in the carb bowls are vaporizing. thus, will not readily flow through the idle system. This " hard start" can be mitigated, to some degree, through adding a carb separator (1/2" is ideal), but, 1/4" will suffice. This will reduce heat transfer (soak) from the intake manifold.
Good Luck!

Hello BryceTryce,
Always tough to tell what is going on when we use different terms.

Next time you drive the car after shutting it off - -see if you can remove the air cleaner pretty quickly. If it takes too long - - restart it and let it run 20 seconds - -shut off the ignition and look inside the center "throat" of the carb - - see if you wee little puffs of smoke.

Could be a leak internal - -the guys will know what to do from there

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kenash said:

Hi
So, let's better define a couple of sequences. An engine will crank, then fire. Now, when you mention "tuns over", this would lead us to believe it's cranking. So, are you saying in essence, it takes cranks longer before "firing" after running for some period? Or, is it not cranking quickly, or, as quickly as when cold? The reason I offer these specifics, as each has it's own set of potential reasons for not doing their intended job very well.

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This.
Kinda hard to diagnose anything without knowing the facts here.

BryceTryce said:

Sorry for the confusion. What i mean is it cranks much longer and i have to frantically pump the gas before the engine fires. The problem gets worse the longer I drive. It doesn't seem to crank any slower or at least not that i can tell.

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Hi,
OK. Your follow up appears to indicate you are experiencing a carb fuel boiling/vapor locking situation, I referred to earlier.
Install a 1/4-1/2" phenolic spacer, road test, and report.
Good Luck!

kenash said:

Hi,
OK. Your follow up appears to indicate you are experiencing a carb fuel boiling/vapor locking situation, I referred to earlier.
Install a 1/4-1/2" phenolic spacer, road test, and report.
Good Luck!

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I also noticed a fairly large amount of fluid that seems to be collecting on the outside of the carburetor and probably leaking from it. I was wondering if this is a symptom of the carb fuel vapor locking problem or if it could be a symptom of something else?

BryceTryce said:

I also noticed a fairly large amount of fluid that seems to be collecting on the outside of the carburetor and probably leaking from it. I was wondering if this is a symptom of the carb fuel vapor locking problem or if it could be a symptom of something else?

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Well, if it's fuel, duh? If it's moisture (H2O) your dealing with a high humidity issue. In the meantime, get the spacer installed.

ok last question:

should it be open like this: Edelbrock/.32 in. thick open square bore Performer Series heat insulator gaskets (9265) | Carburetor Heat Shield | AutoZone.com

or should it be like this:
Edelbrock/2 pcs. 1/8 in. thick square bore Performer Series heat insulator gaskets for dual quad manifold - Not legal for sale or use on pollution controlled motor vehicles (9267) | Carburetor Heat Shield | AutoZone.com

BryceTryce said:

ok last question:

should it be open like this: Edelbrock/.32 in. thick open square bore Performer Series heat insulator gaskets (9265) | Carburetor Heat Shield | AutoZone.com

or should it be like this:
Edelbrock/2 pcs. 1/8 in. thick square bore Performer Series heat insulator gaskets for dual quad manifold - Not legal for sale or use on pollution controlled motor vehicles (9267) | Carburetor Heat Shield | AutoZone.com

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Hi,
The "open" is fine. But, keep in mind, the thicker the better to a certain point. A 1/4" would be better, though.

BryceTryce said:

I'm having trouble finding a 1/2 inch anywhere that i would be able to get a hold of quickly, is a 1 inch too thick?

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Hi,
Actually, to a degree, the thicker the better insulation from heat transfer. However, your air cleaner starts to get too close to the hood. I will add, if you have a stock manifold, you'll most likely be fine. it's when you run the dual plane high rise manifolds, these start to impact the the thickness due to their higher bases. If you can't find the separators, then Summit or JEG's will have them. I just bought one (1/2") for a SBC I've been working on to mitigate this same issue. Also, there is some relief, in simply doubling the base gaskets. I've done this in a pinch.
Good Luck!