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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone with hands on? My window was very hard to open and close. Decades ago I had the guts out of the door and figured that the tracks just needed to be lubed.

I finally pulled off the door panel and yes, the rather undisturbed lithium grease had hardened up over the years of inactivity.

More importantly, the rear arm had pulled out of it's roller. I squeezed the clip so it would take a better bite and reinserted the pin into the roller. I re-lubed the three tracks and all the pivot points I could find, then I sprayed dry lubricant into all the vertical glass channels.

The window works more smoothly now but when it gets down to about 3" from being closed it comes to a sudden stop. If I roll the window back up, then lower it with a small amount of pressure on the top edge of the glass, the window smoothly goes all the way down.

What might be going on? Is there a hitch in the quadrant and sector? Do I need to pull it to find out what is going on?
 

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iv had the same problem ever since i bought my car. It stops at about 4" from the bottom. If you hold the top of glass forward, while rolling down - it will roll down all the way. There is a bracket type thing at the bottom of the vent window piece. Very close to the bottom of the door. Mines broken. I was told a new door is what it needs. I wonder if JB Weld would fix it. problem is that you cant see it while working on it so that makes it tough to get the broken piece lined up just right. There is a small round metal plug access hole behind the door panel towards the lower/front of door.

Plus you have to fit your arm into that oval hole on door. That's a job in itself. And if ya think that's painful, wait till you remove your arm from that oval hole.

Might not be the same problem. Does your entire glass and vent window move freely inward & outward, when its rolled up? That would tell you if that bracket part is broken. "Yeah, its broke & takes 2 hands to roll up & down, but its worked for years so who cares." is my opinion on it. :yup:

Edit - I had a new regulator installed about 10 years ago & it fixed a new problem but that same problem of not rolling down properly still was & is there.
 

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The rubber bushings that ride in those tracks are really cheap, and a replacement set may at least help your problem. If your track is broken like 6T6Coupe's, then you might have to cut a hole in the door for access, then weld it back up. If you do this behind the removable door panel, then it will only require a quick spray paint job to cover the welds up.
 

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Hello. :) I think that the first thing that I would check would be to see if the bottom of the big bracket thingy that the glass is attached to is hitting the regulator arm. It passes by there at about the place you say that the window is stopping. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hello. :) I think that the first thing that I would check would be to see if the bottom of the big bracket thingy that the glass is attached to is hitting the regulator arm. It passes by there at about the place you say that the window is stopping. :)
If that were the case, is it a matter of adjustment to make things clear? With that little bit of pressure added to the top of the window, it goes down smoothly like there is no hitch in the quadrant or sector shaft.
 

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I actually had to go out & try it to see exactly how i hold the glass while rolling it down lol. Mine stops a bit higher then i thought. It will stop about 5-6" before normal down position. I hold my top of glass forward & some outward when rolling down.

I do know if you try rolling it down with no assistance, It not only wont go down all the way, it makes weird noise's (clicks-does not sound good) all the way up on the return trip up. And it needs help going up then. If i always help it going downward, i can roll it up (slowly) all by itself with no help or problems.

My vent window track is not broken. The bracket that's supposed to be welded to the inside of door, is still bolted to the bracket! The way its supposed to be. (bracket is broken tho) Cutting a hole behind the door panel, for access would be better then a new door tho. Never thought of that. Thanx for the idea Brad. :bigthumbsup

Do i have 2 problems or just 1 - Im not sure. But that bracket being fixed would surely help some.
 

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If that were the case, is it a matter of adjustment to make things clear? With that little bit of pressure added to the top of the window, it goes down smoothly like there is no hitch in the quadrant or sector shaft.
Odds are Veronica is right. If that is in fact the case, you might just need to reach in there and bend the bracket slightly. Normally, this is not a good idea since it could lead to things getting out of alignment, but since you only need to add a little bit of pressure to your window to get it past the sticking point, this method might be just the ticket. :)

6T6Coupe, was your car in a wreck where the door was damaged? Or did your bracket break at a poor weld? I have my door panels off so I could pull the handles so my doors could be painted. I am going to take the opportunity to clean and lube my slides and channels.
 

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6T6Coupe, was your car in a wreck where the door was damaged? Or did your bracket break at a poor weld? I have my door panels off so I could pull the handles so my doors could be painted. I am going to take the opportunity to clean and lube my slides and channels.

In a wreck with the door being removed...I cant say from 1966 to 1988, but not since then. I didnt know how it was "supposed" to be so i took the pass door off and felt around to see what exactly was wrong. The bracket is just broken. Thats all i can tell. Funny thing is, part of the bracket is still on the inside of door and like i said, the other flat part is still attached to the wing window lower part. Every time i take the door panels off, i lube everything good.

I have already lost my memory about how the inside metal bracket is...i think its an L shape - with a small/short edge thats welded to door?? If thats correct, then 1/2 the bracket is on door still & 1/2 on the vent window track, so its not a bad weld. bad metal that broke at the 90 degree turn maybe?

Im not sure what im gonna do about it yet. I just dont want a black door. I already have a Ford Dark Blue hood! New paint is still a few years away.
 

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If it does not effect your enjoyment of the car, then put it off. Might be a good excuse to pick up a MIG if you don't already have one. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
A curiosity is about the rear arm of the regulator. When I took the door panel off to check the lube in the tracks, the last 3" of the rear regulator arm was bent in toward the inside of the car. It was that pivot pin that had pulled out of the nylon roller and I figured that it should not have had that bend in it. I straightened the arm and reinstalled the nylon roller.

Maybe that bend was meant to pull the bottom of the window inward. I will be taking the passanger door panel off and see if that regulator arm had the same bend in it.
 
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