I am doing it right now. Here is what I have found out.
I bought a rebuilt master cylinder for a '67 manual brake/drum car at Auto Zone for $20. I figured I could buy needed tubing and fittings locally also. I spent several hours running around town and $71 for a bag of fittings and tools. I still needed one plug that no one in town had. ($45 was tool rental at AZ that was refundable) After getting home I looked online at CJ Pony parts and found I could have bought the kit for less than $60 that came with pre bent tube, fittings and rebuilt master cylinder. I ended up keeping the master cylinder, (I already had it filled with fluid and the proper connecting rod installed) took the tools and fittings back and ordering the pre bent tube and fittings from CJ Pony for less than $20 shipped. I'll end up spending $40 when all is said and done. If I had it to do all over I'd just order the kit and save a bunch of time and hassle.
In a few days I'll know if the pre bent tube and fittings work and look OK.
The pre bent tube and fittings came in yesterday. While they look ok, and fit the master cylinder, one of them still had the wrong end to fit the four way "tee" on the car. My old master cylinder had 1/4" tube going to the "tee" and spliting from there to the front and rear brakes with 3/16" lines. The kit I bought had 3/16" for both lines coming off the new cylinder. I had to go to Auto Zone and buy a $2.00 three way 3/16" tee and replace the 4 way that was on the car. I don't know if the "tee" and master cylinder that was on the car was stock or not, so I won't complain about the parts not being 100% right.
Like I said in an earlier post, if I had it to do all over, I'd buy the kit from one of the Mustang parts supplier. It may have cost an extra $20 or so, but the hassle and run around factor would have been worth it. If a guy were to do this work for a living, had the flairing tool and tubing benders, and boxes full of fittings he could do a nicer looking job and save a few bucks. For most of us, buy the kit and save the hassle.
To bleed the MC, you will need some fittings to screw into the master cylinder, and pieces of tubing to return the fluid to the MC. My MC came with some plastic tubing and fittings to do the job. With the fittings and tube in place, slowly pump the brakes till no more bubbles are seen in the tubing. I see no reason why it couldn't be done in the car if you have already installed the master cylinder.
As for the disk/drum MC, I *think* you would want a MC from a '67 up car that had disk/drums from the factory. If it is still manual brakes, make sure you buy one for manual brakes as the power and manual cylinders are different.
I too am making the switch! When I dry fit the MC and pumped the brake pedal it felt great. But, the pedal does not return all the way up. I kept the same push rod b/c the dual MC from Auto Zone did not come with a new one. Also I measured the depth of the push rod inlets and the dual MC is clearly a 1/4in deeper.
Anyone else have this problem? Do I need to replace push rod with a longer one? Should I take the MC back? The one I got is from a '67 disc/drum.
It's pretty sweet to hear that all these people have done the switch! I too have switched to dual MC in my '66. As stated above, the peace of mind is totally worth it. Having only a one bowl cylinder seems like a recipe for disaster to me.
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