Are the strut rod bushings new what about the pad on to the springs.Did you replace the idler arm and all the steering parts or just the otter tie rod ends?
1965 Mustang Coupe Front End Issues
Hello all,
I have a few front end issues I was wondering if anyone else has come accross and remedied. I have a 65 coupe with a 302. The front end has been rebuilt, tie rod ends, ball joints etc., when I hit bumps in the road it sounds like some one slapped the side of a tin can. I know this is normal, my question is does a mote carlo bar help this? Secondly I have a GM style HEI ignition and a straight mote carlo bar will not work as it hits the distributor, I also have factory air. Does anyone know of a monte carlo bar for this application or do I have to make one? Finnaly the floating or sloppy steering, is there a fix such as a dampner that will help this? Sorry for the long question but I thought they were pretty much related.
Thanks in advance for any help
Doug
I have a few front end issues I was wondering if anyone else has come accross and remedied. I have a 65 coupe with a 302. The front end has been rebuilt, tie rod ends, ball joints etc., when I hit bumps in the road it sounds like some one slapped the side of a tin can. I know this is normal, my question is does a mote carlo bar help this? Secondly I have a GM style HEI ignition and a straight mote carlo bar will not work as it hits the distributor, I also have factory air. Does anyone know of a monte carlo bar for this application or do I have to make one? Finnaly the floating or sloppy steering, is there a fix such as a dampner that will help this? Sorry for the long question but I thought they were pretty much related.
Thanks in advance for any help
Doug
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Front end issues
Did not replace the pads but all bushings have been replaced. Would those pads account for the tinny noise when I hit a bump?
How would one check to see if the pads ned to be replaced?
Thanks for your reply.
Did not replace the pads but all bushings have been replaced. Would those pads account for the tinny noise when I hit a bump?
How would one check to see if the pads ned to be replaced?
Thanks for your reply.
You shouldn't be hearing the noise that you describe when hitting bumps. How much play is there in the steering box? The noise can be caused by play anywhere in the front steering and suspension. Make sure that the noise isn't being caused by loose or mispositioned body parts before blaming the suspension or steering linkage.
As for adjustment of the box, it's a bit complicated if done correctly and it's best to refer to the service manual. There are two different bearing preload settings that require adjusting. It may boil down to the fact that the box is just plain worn out. A lot of these steering boxes were never checked for or lubricated during the life of the vehicle. There is a special procedure for adding the lube, also in the service manual.
The Monte Carlo bar was added as a support for the shock towers. It keeps them from flexing in and out and gives the front upper area of the car this needed support. This flexing can cause cracks in the shock towers and also effect steering geometry while being driven. I have an oversized distributor on my engine, (Mallory Comp 9000), which required me to install the curved style M/C bar. There is room for the HEI dist. with this bar. It was originally designed for the Shelbys that had the oval shaped air cleaner and it just so happens to be just right for using the HEI. These bars only cost a few dollars more than the straight ones. All of the Mustang repro parts vendors sell them.
The factory A/C shouldn't be an issue when installing.
The coil spring pads were originally rubber, poly replacements are available, and may or may not be causing the noise. Since I'm not there to witness the problem, it's hard to say. You can try to look at them by shining a light up into the spring housing. The pads normally sit around the upper circumference of the spring and if in good condition should sit evenly around the spring.
As for adjustment of the box, it's a bit complicated if done correctly and it's best to refer to the service manual. There are two different bearing preload settings that require adjusting. It may boil down to the fact that the box is just plain worn out. A lot of these steering boxes were never checked for or lubricated during the life of the vehicle. There is a special procedure for adding the lube, also in the service manual.
The Monte Carlo bar was added as a support for the shock towers. It keeps them from flexing in and out and gives the front upper area of the car this needed support. This flexing can cause cracks in the shock towers and also effect steering geometry while being driven. I have an oversized distributor on my engine, (Mallory Comp 9000), which required me to install the curved style M/C bar. There is room for the HEI dist. with this bar. It was originally designed for the Shelbys that had the oval shaped air cleaner and it just so happens to be just right for using the HEI. These bars only cost a few dollars more than the straight ones. All of the Mustang repro parts vendors sell them.
The factory A/C shouldn't be an issue when installing.
The coil spring pads were originally rubber, poly replacements are available, and may or may not be causing the noise. Since I'm not there to witness the problem, it's hard to say. You can try to look at them by shining a light up into the spring housing. The pads normally sit around the upper circumference of the spring and if in good condition should sit evenly around the spring.
Thanks for your reply
I've gone through all the sheet metal connections I could find and everything seems to be tight. I'll re-check the steering or have it done. As for the mote carlo bar thanks for the info, I'll try the curved one and see if that will fit.
Doug
I've gone through all the sheet metal connections I could find and everything seems to be tight. I'll re-check the steering or have it done. As for the mote carlo bar thanks for the info, I'll try the curved one and see if that will fit.
Doug
I had a noise on my front end which turned out to be the front bumper. It was tight but was rubbing against the support brackets. I found it by hitting on the bumper with the palm of my hand. A thin film of grease at the problem point (I had to disassemble the bracket) and retightening eliminated the noise.
Your Reply
Thanks again for taking the time to respond to my questions. A little history about my car. It's a 65 coupe that was in a garage fire a few years ago. It was sold as salvage. The car appears to have had a complete restore?, they put a 68 302 and an automatic in it. The car's tag calls for a three speed with a 2 barrel 289. I put the three speed back in it and went through the 302, new cam, lower end bearings seals, intake, headers (all the fun stuff). The chrome on the car, bumpers etc., were all discolered from the fire. The paint somehow escaped any damage. There was soot in the interior which cleaned up nicely along with a good rub out and wax on the paint. The front end was all replaced by the restore, all of the rubber on the tie rod ends, ball joints is new along with the color of the metal on the drag link etc. It looks like all the parts are new. All the rubber was not effected by the fire, it appears to be in very good shape. I've replaced the bumpers, mirrors, gas cap and tail lights. So I've kind of been through the entire car cheking for damage and can't find any. The only thing I can think of would be the spings insulators you talked of, I will check those. I think maybe to check all bolts on the sheet metal again may be prudent as you said your bumper was tight but there was still a problem. Again thanks for your reply and I'll be back to tell of my findings.
Doug
Thanks again for taking the time to respond to my questions. A little history about my car. It's a 65 coupe that was in a garage fire a few years ago. It was sold as salvage. The car appears to have had a complete restore?, they put a 68 302 and an automatic in it. The car's tag calls for a three speed with a 2 barrel 289. I put the three speed back in it and went through the 302, new cam, lower end bearings seals, intake, headers (all the fun stuff). The chrome on the car, bumpers etc., were all discolered from the fire. The paint somehow escaped any damage. There was soot in the interior which cleaned up nicely along with a good rub out and wax on the paint. The front end was all replaced by the restore, all of the rubber on the tie rod ends, ball joints is new along with the color of the metal on the drag link etc. It looks like all the parts are new. All the rubber was not effected by the fire, it appears to be in very good shape. I've replaced the bumpers, mirrors, gas cap and tail lights. So I've kind of been through the entire car cheking for damage and can't find any. The only thing I can think of would be the spings insulators you talked of, I will check those. I think maybe to check all bolts on the sheet metal again may be prudent as you said your bumper was tight but there was still a problem. Again thanks for your reply and I'll be back to tell of my findings.
Doug
Doug, I suggest that you take the load off of the front end and check the ball joints. The upper ball joint carries the load on Mustangs. You have to jack it up, with all of the weight on the lower arm to check the upper ball joint. For the lower joint, take the load off of the lower arm. Check the wheel bearings for any slop too.
Continue checking for any looseness with the load off of the front end. Take a soft faced hammer and take a whack at different places on the frame and any surface, that obviously, won't get damaged. You may be able to locate the problem area. Check the strut rod bushings, may have fire damage and slop.
One more thing, check to see if any alignment shims are missing from the area where the upper control arms mount to the shock towers. Check all four mounting bolts, (two per side).
Continue checking for any looseness with the load off of the front end. Take a soft faced hammer and take a whack at different places on the frame and any surface, that obviously, won't get damaged. You may be able to locate the problem area. Check the strut rod bushings, may have fire damage and slop.
One more thing, check to see if any alignment shims are missing from the area where the upper control arms mount to the shock towers. Check all four mounting bolts, (two per side).
Yea, I tried all that already, repacked the wheel bearings, tested the ball joints, inspected the tie rod ends etc. The only thing I did not check was the spring seats. That will be next. Next year I'm going to install disc brakes on the front so a lot of this isn't an issue anyway. I was just trying to figure out the noise, just a very tinny ride. I remember when these things were new and they pretty much sounded the way mine does now, it even steers like they did new. I was wondering if there is newer technology that can be installed that would make the ride better, such as the monte carlo bar, of course without screwing up the original.
Thanks
Doug
Thanks
Doug
Doug, the M/C bar eliminated the front end shimmy I had on a 67 coupe I used to own. I had to use a bottle jack to pry the shock towers apart so the bar would fit. It was a real rust bucket, but I put tons of miles on that car. The M/C bar is supposed to help reduce understeer also.
You might try spraying WD-40 up on top of the springs. Maybe the spring is chafing the sheet metal where that thin rubber spring insulator has rotted away. They were rotten on my 67 FB when I pulled the old springs out. I used the Poly insulators as replacements.
You might try spraying WD-40 up on top of the springs. Maybe the spring is chafing the sheet metal where that thin rubber spring insulator has rotted away. They were rotten on my 67 FB when I pulled the old springs out. I used the Poly insulators as replacements.
Thanks, that's a good idea.
I'll let you know what happens.
Doug
I'll let you know what happens.
Doug
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