[1rstCar65]

Ok so i have a 65 coupe and I know for sure it has an exhaust leak where it connects to the manifold, I need to replace the ring that goes on it but also recently I have heard a rattling noise coming from the driver side but i don't think it's the exhaust because my exhaust runs on the passenger side. i am wondering if the sound echoes and if any of this causes a lack of power when and only when I floor it all the way. Thank You in advance

 

[Explorer]

Wild guess, a six cylinder. Drivers side noise could possibily be fuel pump or distributor. Only thing that comes to mind that would effect power unless head gasket leaking. Exhaust leak wouldn't cause power loss.

 

[66takataka]

Ok so i have a 65 coupe and I know for sure it has an exhaust leak where it connects to the manifold, I need to replace the ring that goes on it but also recently I have heard a rattling noise coming from the driver side but i don't think it's the exhaust because my exhaust runs on the passenger side. i am wondering if the sound echoes and if any of this causes a lack of power when and only when I floor it all the way. Thank You in advance

Sounds more like a carburator adjustment issue, the exaust would only cause lack of power if you close it considerably.

 

[1rstCar65]

its definately a 6 cylinder, and i just had the timing adjusted on it. the carb is new but im not sure what the screws or the lean/rich mixture setting should be. It was running fine before but i hear the rattling come from under the car only when i drive. it sounds like an aluminum can when its rolling down a bumpy street. and nothing is hanging off of the bottom so im puzzled

 

[gjz30075]

Maybe a baffle is loose in the muffler. Give it a few raps with your fist or rubber mallet to see if you hear the rattle.

 

[Yadkin]

The screws on the carb for rich-lean are for idle only, with the throttle plates nearly closed. On steady state, warmed up throttle, air/fuel mixture is maintained by "jets" which are removable brass, fixed orifices at the bottom of the float bowl. These work in conjunction with the fuel level in the bowl and the vacuum created by the venturi to draw gasoline out of the float bowl.

During warm-up the choke valve cuts down on the air coming in, increasing the vacuum at the venturi to produce a richer mixture.

There is also an accelerator pump that gives a direct shot of fuel right into the venturi. It's easy to see if this is working by looking down at the venturi and working the throttle connection at the carb.

 

[1rstCar65]

Thanks for all the help! i actually found out the rattling problem was a broken hubcap, and the loss of power wasn't a loss of power at all lol apparently cruise o matic trans downshift if the pedal is smashed to the floor below around 40mph haha thank God my neighbor gave me a "motor's" car manual for 63-69. Thanks again everyone. my car is A ok! :bigthumbsup

 

[66takataka]

Thanks for all the help! i actually found out the rattling problem was a broken hubcap, and the loss of power wasn't a loss of power at all lol apparently cruise o matic trans downshift if the pedal is smashed to the floor below around 40mph haha thank God my neighbor gave me a "motor's" car manual for 63-69. Thanks again everyone. my car is A ok! :bigthumbsup

You mean the kickdown?... that's supose to give you better aceleration :headscratch:

 

[1rstCar65]

well i recently found out the timing chain is off according to a neighbor so i have to take the front end of the motor apart... any tips on what tools i might need and any tricks to getting the tricky parts off? im fairly new at this and will have no clue as to what im doing...

 

[rex1965]

If the timing chain is off, by 1 or 2 teeth, an engine runs extemely bad, I would remove the valve cover and watch the valves on the no 1 cyl, and try to determine where they are opening and closing, this may require using a degree wheel, now it is possible the timing chain is worn out (loose) this is due to the mileage on the engine. Good Luck.

 

[1rstCar65]

Thanks. Also my transmission started to leak :/ any possible suggestions?

 

[Yadkin]

From the pan? Re-torque the bolts. If you haven't done it in a while, change the fluid and filter and put in a new gasket.

 

[1rstCar65]

Yup it was from the pan, but it was running down the brace so it looked like multiple leaks. And I just wanted to ask before I take off the front end of the engine, could the culprit be a hole in the muffler? its about and inch or inch and a half long and a couple centimeters thick also there is a leak where the exhaust connects to the manifold because I still havent changed the donut. I was thinking this is making it sound like my timing is off and may be causing me to lose power

 

[Yadkin]

Holes in the exhaust system won't cause the engine to run rough or lose power.

 

[Explorer]

A down and dirty fix on the distributor off a tooth ot two, is either move the plug wires around one position or restab the distributor. If you had the distributor out, it is more likely you reinstalled a tooth off. These old I6's are tough. I'd check for slack in the timing chain by removing distributor cap and turning crank back and forth to see how much you have to move it before the rotor turns. Another common leak on the tranny is the O-ring that seals dipstick tube into the case. This usually will show up worse when it has set a day or so and torque converter drains back into pan.

 

[1rstCar65]

Well i plugged the hole in the muffler with instant steel and its running good! no more hesitation! but the trans keeps leaking above the brace. I havent replaced the distributor, but I'll still check the chain. My neighbor moved the wires around because the car wont start if its in the correct firing order so i think he switched wire 1 with 4, or 6 i cant remember. but would this be because of the chain or distributor that the wires had to be moved?

 

[Yadkin]

A hole in the muffler caused hesitation? That's a new one on me. :bigthumbsup