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Hello, I have a 1965 Mustang I have been wiring, I cannot get any electricity to the starter. I have put a new solenoid on the car, I have wired everything correct, But i cannot get the car to start, any ideas why? Correct me if I am wrong, Isn't it starter wire to the solenoid wires go to the Alternator and battery, and then also there is a wire that goes to the ignition coil, and the alternator regulator? Any Ideas what I am forgeting? Did this year model mustang have a fuse box? Thanks
 

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Hello csherrell3279,
Are you sure the starter is good?
A pretty easy way to check is take a set of jumper cables.
Hook the positive to the large lead on the starter itself. You can take the negative and grab any part of the starter like an ear. At the battery, hook up the negative cable and then tap the positive cable to the positive post. The motor should spin if the starter is good.

It seems as though you have wired it correct so perhaps the starter is bad. Also...have you run a tester at the starter end to see if there is juice?

You may already have replaced the starter but let us know.......Jim
 

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Yep! my money is on the neutral start switch or the clutch switch. (depending on manual or auto trans)
 

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Hi again. :) It does kind of sound like his neutral safety switch went bad, he bought a new starter solenoid, thinking that might be the problem, now has it wired a little funny, and still has a bad neutral safety switch. :gringreen That's assuming that it's an automatic. The manual transmission cars didn't have a clutch switch in 66. They didn't start that until the 70s.

I think that the first thing that I would do is make sure that I had it wired correctly. The positive battery cable goes to the big post on the solenoid towards the battery, the red wire with the blue stripe goes to the post marked 'S' on the front of the starter solenoid, the brown wire goes to the post marked 'I' on the front of the solenoid, and the starter cable goes on the big post on the solenoid that's back towards the firewall. The only other wire that matters in this equation is the black wire with the yellow stripe that goes from the same post on the solenoid that the battery cable is hooked down into the lower radiator core support and then inside the car. That's the wire that brings power to the ignition switch, among other things. But, if the lights work, that wire isn't the problem. :) If it's wired up correctly and still won't start, I would then try starting it in neutral instead of park. If it starts, I would replace the neutral safety switch. If it doesn't start, I would go through the system with a volt meter and find the spot that power can't get past, and fix whatever's busted. It still could be the neutral safety switch, it's just that they don't normally die completely all at once. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hello, and yet again let me think you for taking the time to answer my question, yes my mustang is an automatic, but I cant get any power at all to the actual car, no inside lights, no anything, could the neutral switch be causing this?
 

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Hi again. :) That's almost certainly going to be that black wire with the yellow stripe that I mentioned. If you look at where the alternator harness plugs into the main headlight harness down near the frame rail, kind of underneath the alternator, and then trace that headlight harness as it goes back up towards the starter solenoid, you should find a fairly fat black wire with a yellow stripe. That wire should be hooked to the same post on the starter solenoid that the positive battery cable attaches to. That's what brings power into the ignition switch, the lights, the horns, etc. :)
 

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The fusable link or main accesory supply not being connected to the battery will cause a total loss of power.
 

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Hi again.:) There isn't a fusible link on the main power feed ( black wire/yellow stripe) on a 65 Mustang. It's just a wire that runs from the hot side of the starter solenoid into the car, where it splits off into three directions. One supplying power to the fuse box, one to the headlight switch, and one to the ignition switch. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Hello All, Today I went over to the Mustang and I believe I might need a new Wiring Harness, or possibly I have gotten sold a bad solenoid, the reason I say this is because I short circuted the starter today and aside from the battery shooting sparks everywhere the engine crunk, or possibly it could be the alternator, I am guessing any Ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Also another thing Veronica you said a wire going to the Fuse box, I cannot find a fuse box on this Mustang, I am starting to believe also that the fuse box is gone, could it be the alternator regulator? Thanks
 

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Hi again.:) The fuse box is up above the passenger side kick panel. If you are sitting in the driver's seat it be to the left and up a little of your left knee, but you have to be kneeling on the ground outside the car with your head stuck up under the steering column to see it. It isn't something that a person will stumble across by accident. :nogrinner.

This would be a very good time for you forget about trying to figure out what's wrong, quit listening to people telling you what might be wrong, and go in there and figure out what's wrong. :gringreen

Here's where you are right now.
1) The problem is not with the starter itself or the cable going to the starter from the solenoid. You know this because the starter did start cranking when you jumped it from the battery, and because you are having problems with systems that have absolutely nothing to do with starting the car.

2) The problem is not a dead battery. You know this because, again, the starter started cranking, and the battery started throwing some sparks around.

3) The problem is not with the starter solenoid because it has nothing to do with the lights, ignition switch or accessories not working.

The problem is not with the voltage regulator or the alternator. If you removed them both and threw them in the trash, the car would still start if nothing else was wrong with it.

As far as single-causes go, there is only one that will account for everything that your car is doing. Go out to your car. Raise the hood. Look at the post on your starter solenoid that has the positive battery cable hooked to it, and locate the black wire with yellow stripe on it that is hooked to that same post. There should be a rectangular black rubber thingy with a ring connector on one end that is attached to the starter solenoid on one end and either one or two wires coming out of the other end, depending on when in the 65 model year your car was made. If there are two, one of them will be a fat black wire with a yellow stripe. If there's only one, it will be a fat black wire with a yellow stripe. Find this black wire with the yellow stripe. This is where your problem is. Do not waste your time looking for some mysterious third cause. Your problem right now is that wire. Either it is not attached to the starter solenoid, it has a bunch of corrossion on the ring connector or it has been cut or broken or something. But, something is amiss with that black wire with the yellow stripe.

Locate it, examine it, and tell me what you see. :)

Once you get that wire re-attached correctly and making a complete circuit into the car, you might still have a problem with your neutral safety switch, and the car still won't start, but, everything else will be working and then you can effectively investigate the problem that motivated you to buy the new solenoid in the first place. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Hello, I have traced the wire and it is connected right, but there are NO fuses in the fuse box, could this be why I am getting no power to the car?
 

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Hi again. :) That would account for why nothing that's on a fuse is getting any power, :gringreen but, no, that wouldn't explain the ignition switch or the headlight switch. That black wire with the yellow stripe splits off three ways before it gets to the fuse box. One continues on to the fuse box, one goes over to the headlight switch and the other goes to the ignition switch. The fuse box is not in between the solenoid and the ignition switch, or the solenoid and the headlight switch.

The absence of all fuses does give you some very useful information, though. Someone has tried to correct this cars electrical issues before you got the car, and, for whatever reason, they decided that they should sell the car. This was an over-reaction on their part, though. Your problems will not be that difficult to correct. Let me go take a couple of pictures to show you what you are looking for and what you need to do to correct the problem, and I'll be right back. :)
 

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I'm back. :) This is a picture of the problem area. The black wire with the yellow stripe comes from the hot side of the starter solenoid and goes into that black rubber thingy, and from there, the yellow wire goes to the ignition switch, the black wire with the orange stripe goes to the headlight switch, and the black wire with the yellow stripe continues on to the fuse box, seen near the bottom of the picture. This same assembly is exactly what should be in your car, also, except your assembly has that pesky Mustang wrapped around it.

For you to have one problem that kills power to all three places, the fuse box, headlight switch and ignition switch, that one problem would have to be between that black plug and the ring connector which is attached to the big post on the starter solenoid that is closest to your battery. You have already determined that the problem is not with the connection at the starter solenoid, so, the problem must be further downstream. That wire could have been cut or broken between the starter solenoid and that black rubber thingy in a location that you can't actually look at, like down inside the frame rail underneath the radiator, or somewhere under the dash of the car or something.

Try this. Locate that black rubber thingy on your car. Peel back the tiniest bit of the insulation, just enough to check it with a volt meter, and see if power is getting to there. If yes, replace the black rubber thingy. If no, run a brand new wire from the black rubber thingy to the starter solenoid, and see if that gets the headights and ignition switch working. Do this before replacing the fuses, and hook your new wire to the starter solenoid last, as in, cut the old wire right before it gets to the rubber thing, strip it back a bit, put a new butt splice connector on the wire hanging out of the rubber thing and your new wire that is to go out to the starter solenoid, put a new ring connector on the other end of the new wire, and then, with the key in the off position and the headlights off, attach the wire to the starter solenoid. Then try turning on the headlights. If that goes well, try turning on the ignition switch. If the gas gauge moves and everything appears to be ok, get back with us here and let everybody know what you've discovered. If this all does not go well, let us know that, also. :)
 

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I had the same problem after changing my plugs and wires, I followed the advice posted here and traced the black/yellow wire all the way to a disconnected harness at the firewall. I plugged it in hooked up the battery and everything was back to normal. I guess I must have bumped the wires leading to the harness and knocked it loose. Thanks:bigthumbsup
 

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Starter cellenoid power sequence?

I just replaced my distributor with a Mallory Distributor and coil. Now, I'm not getting any power to my starter.

I have lights in the car, so I know I'm getting power to the car. On the cellenoid, what should have power when? I have power to the positive post. I don't ever get power to the S or I or to the starter side of the cellenoid.

My assumption is that either the S or I will carry the power back to the cellenoid to tell it to engage, but I don't know which side I should see power (and how much) when I turn the key.
 
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