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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
!965 Mustang converted 6 cyl to 302. All steering is 6 cyl except spindles. The Hydraulic control valve ball stud had excessive right to left movement and was sheard off at the cotter pin hole. I removed the whole assembly,took it apart,and now I can't get the new ball stud back in the hole. I've looked in the shop manual,but the pics they show have a rectangle slot and mine it oval. Can't figure out how to get it back together. Seems like one of those Chinese puzzles!!!
 

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Hello.:) It sounds like you've got the wrong stuff. The kit that you want is C2AZ-3A533-A. The ball stud socket is supposed to have a rectangular hole in the side of it. I really don't see how you could still have the original 6 cyl steering in the car with a 302 in it. The drag link would be hitting the oil pan. The person that actually did the motor swap would have had to change out the steering stuff, so who knows what you really have down there. Hope that helps.:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ended up returning the kit and getting a rebuilt unit. The control valve is actually out of a 67. I'm guessing the rest of the steering is also 67.The problem I'm having is the car wants to drift around on the road. I've replaced upper and lower arms,Front and rear springs,shocks all around,outer tie rod ends.The car was alligned with still the same problem. The steering box is tight with no excessive play.I just can't seem to find anyone local who can help me.I do belong to a club but just about all the members are older and don't work on their own cars.I really want to drive the car but because of the steering problem it's a safety risk. Thanks so much, Henry
 

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I kinda think it's just the nature of these old Mustangs. Mine wanders around some, but that might be because of my ball stud being worn out. The chassis on these cars is inherently weak by today's standards, so your car could be slightly warped or is constantly twisting, leading to unpredictable handling. If subframe connectors don't take care of it, I'm at a loss. Or a leaf spring could be warped on one end or something like that.
 

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Yeah, I hear this a lot, it's just old Mustangs but I'm in the process of changing the whole front steering on my '67 part by part.
With every part I am changing the car handles better.
I've just driven another '67 Mustang with all new parts and it doesn't wander at all, so it can be done.
Don't take this it's just the old Mustang bit, I don't.
It's very hard to say what is exactly wrong with your car......
You changed the idler arm, inner tie rods?
The people that did the allignement should be able to tell you what the problem is tough and if it still wanders after that, they shouldn't have done the allignement in the first place.
If you go to a allignement place and they see that the tie-rods, control valve or whatever has a problem how can they allign the car, they can't.
Veronica has a good point that everything has to be V8 so hell, just change every thing.
New control valve, center link everything, if you just change one thing but not the other the problem will stay.
Paul289 might have point with the warped thing, like maybe it was in a crash once?
That's the only thing that maybe can keep killing any work you do.
You can allways convert to Total Control products wich should solve any problems you have but this is financially and workwise no peanuts.
Other than that, keep trying, if the car has a problem there should be a reason for it wich can be fixed, but hey, that's just my opinion. :D
 

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Hi again.:) As far as the drifting around goes, it is true that these cars did that when they were brand new, but the only reason that they did that was because they were riding on those bronze-age bias ply tires.:gringreen With radial tires on the car, it isn't supposed to be doing that. The most common cause is either un-evenly worn or under-inflated tires. I would check that first. Then, it is very common to see a 40+ year old car with worn out strut rod bushings. That can cause the car to drift around some. It is also a very simple fix, requiring only basic hand tools. Then I would check the ball joints on the upper and lower control arms. The bottom line would be that the car is doing that for a reason. Find the reason and correct it and the car will quit doing that. This isn't a car like an old corvette that's supposed to do that.:nogrinner
 
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