Okay, here's my 2 cts: Here's what camber does, by angling the wheels outboard at the bottom (negative camber), it allows better cornering when racing, con-wears the inside of the tire more, the camber should be near the same for both front wheels. The caster is the centerline the spindle follows when turning the wheels, what this means is if the top of the centerline is tilted forward (positive caster), this returns the steering wheel to near the center position (straight ahead), but also causes more effort to be exerted to turn the wheels, this is feedback to the driver when racing. The toe-in is the difference in distance of the center of the tread on the tires between the front of the tires versus the rear of the tires, you always want a little toe-in as when you drive the force exerted on the tires pushes them backward making them want to toe-out. With all this said, the key is both sides being the same or close to it, if you have radial tires then this is especially critical and can make the car uncontrollable.
First thing to check, is for looseness, there should not be any, a tiny amount of play in the front wheel bearing is okay, because they are timken bearings (tapered) and will expand as they are heated up when driving, if adjusting them, they are torqued to 10 ft lbs while spinning the wheel, and released, repeat 3 times, this seats the bearing, then release the bearing slightly and turn to finger tight, and align the slotted keeper on the nut and insert the cotter pin, if it doesn't line up, the use your fingers and back the nut slightly until the slotted keeper lines up the cotter pin holes.
Caster and camber are set by adding or removing shims on the bolts holding the upper control arms on a 64-66, and are checked by the use of an alignment tool. If you have too much camber, you need to check that the spring towers are not moving in (rust in the area in the frame rail by the spring towers causes it to be weak and they will start moving in) one of the braces that goes between the shock towers helps as well as welding in the patches for the frame rail, examine that area. Also, check how you installed the bushings on the lower control arms, and the lower control arms are not used to set the alignment on a 64-66.
Here's a trick I do, for a rough alignment or check, before I let the professional do it. This works if the rims are true and not bent, cut a board like a 1x2 long enough to go from the edge of the rim at the top and the edge of the rim at the bottom with the board resting next to the snout on the brake drum or spindle, this is because the tire extends past the edge of the rim, place the board vertical against the rim edges with the center against the snout on the drum or disc brake, and place a level against the board, the car should be parked on a level surface to do this, if the rim is not lever (camber) hold the board out like from the top until it is level and note the distance to the rim like 1/4" example, write down the results. To check the toe-in, you drive the car forward and stop, then take a tape measure, (two people helps in doing this), place the tape measure in the center of the tread on the front of the front tires, read the tape measure at the center of the other tire, the do the same on the rear side of the front tires, I know you can't get as high on the tires on the rear side do to the stuff in the car, but get as high as you can without bending the tape measure, if the front measurement is less than the rear, this difference in distance is the toe-in, a very small amount is acceptable, if you are running radials this needs to be near zero, if the front measurement is more than the rear one, then this is toe-out and is unacceptable, and will cause squealing and excess tire wear. Post your results. Good Luck.