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Discussion Starter #1
Just installed a new carburetor on my 65 mustang 200 cid [running a rebuilt '67 engine]. After it was installed the car started fine and we let it idle for quite awhile making sure the timing and fuel mixtures were good. We took it out for a quick drive the next day, and everything seemed fine for about 5 minutes, until the engine started running rough and eventually died on us. After that point we were having problems getting the car to idle, and soon after we couldn't even get it to start.

Right now it seems to be multiple problems. The first problem, I think I have bad fuel in the tank. I'm not sure why the car was running fine for the first day, and then all of a sudden it would run so rough.

Second, we can't even get the car to start at the moment. The engine just cranks, but the only way I can get the car to start is by spraying carb fluid into the throat of my carburetor. We have fuel pressure going into the carb. We have sparks from our spark plugs. We checked our distributor multiple times now. I would assume that there may be something clogged in my carburetor seeing that the only way it'll start is by spraying carb cleaner into it. I looked into my fuel pump earlier today. The filter is still clean because it was recently replaced, but I do see a bit of dirt or deposits at the bottom of the pump.

Any advise would be appreciated. I plan on replacing the fuel filters on both the fuel pump and on the carburetor. Then try starting the car from a fuel container with some fresh fuel, but I think I'm still gonna have issues with getting the car to start. I don't want to have to rebuild the carb because it's new, and I really don't think it's necessary, but I'm not sure what else can be keeping the car from starting.

Thanks.
 

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You can't tell if a fuel filter is plugged by looking at it, dry it with a rag on the ends and try to blow air through it with your mouth, if you can't blow through it or it is hard it is plugged, if you don't like that idea, then just replace them. The first thing I would do is ground the hv coil wire, disconnect the fuel line from the carb, put a piece of flexible gas line (rubber hose type) on the end and put the other end in a metal can at least a quart size, then crank the engine for 20 seconds, you should have at least a pint of fuel in the can, if you do, the fuel problem is in the carb, if you don't have at least a pint, then, you either have no gas in the tank, a plugged sock filter on the pickup in the tank, a cracked rubber hose from the tank allowing it to draw air, a pinched metal fuel line from the tank, or a bad fuel pump. Sometimes the fuel pump can suck some particles from the tank and get them in the valves of the fuel pump which will keep it from pumping very well. Or lastly a problem with the eccentric that drives the fuel pump. Check these things out, and post your results. Good Luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the replies. I got a replacement for the carburetor fuel filter since it's only a few bucks, and I removed the fuel pump so it'll be easier for me to clean out the dirt deposits that were at the bottom. Gonna try to start her up again tomorrow, but if I still have issues getting her to start even with fuel going into the carburetor, then I'll give this a shot [found it from another forum]:

Sounds like the idle circuit is plugged. Have someone start the engine while you squirt some carb cleaner down the throat of the carb. Vary the amount of carb cleaner so your not spraying to much and see if it will idle while doing this. If it runs on carb cleaner then remove the screw (idle air screw) at the base of the carb and squirt some carb cleaner with the supplied tube attached in the hole. Re install the screw all the way in and back it out 4 turns, have someone start the engine while you control the throttle. Rev the engine and close the choke by hand until the engine almost dies, do this 5 times and then hold the throttle at a quarter throttle for 10 seconds before letting it idle. If this does the trick then adjust the idle air screw in until the engine starts running rough then screw it out until it smoothes out and your set. Let us know if this helps.

I'll let you guys know how it goes.

Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
So today, I replaced both fuel filters and also removed the fuel pump so I can better clean out the dirt and deposits that were sitting at the bottom of the pump. I cranked the car while the fuel line was disconnected from the carb and pointing towards a container and we did have fuel coming out of the pump and fuel line. However, there were still issues with getting the car to start. When the car would start it required Carb Cleaner sprayed into the throat of the carb, and even then it would die soon after.

Once again, we checked for sparks from our plugs, and we even made sure that our timing chain alignment was aligned correctly. Me and my dad are stumped. I'm at the point where I can only think that something is wrong with the Carburetor. I would hate for something to be wrong with it because it's a new Vaporizor 1100 from Ponycarburetors. If there is a clog in the carburetor, any ideas on how to clean it out without doing a full rebuild?

Any ideas would be appreciated.
 

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This is not my personal experience but information I have read from other form members at other sites.
From what I have read, you ether have an issue free experience with Pony carburetors or a really bad one with their quality assembly control:
As I see it for the money you should expect the very best..

It sounds to me there is a problem with the carburetor.

You can remove the carb. Then carefully remove the top cover trying not to damage the gasket. Using carb cleaner turn the carb upside down and carefully clean out the bowl. Be careful not to damage the floats..

Then use the carb cleaner with stem to force clean out all the seats. You should be able to see the blow by if the seats are free of any dirt.


Pick your favorite scent of chap-stick and lightly coat the gasket.
Both sides if it comes lose from base.

Reassemble top and try again. You should not have to completely rebuild this carb.

But a bowl cleaning may be in order..and it's not all that difficult.


GL
 

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Sounds like from the other forum post that there may be an idle circuit issue. You can take the carb off and carefully clean the bowl as Echo mentions. Then back the idle mixture screw(s) out so there is nothing protruding into the throttle bore. Then you can spray your carb cleaner with red straw up through the idle circuit hole(s) in the bore. Hopefully this may clean up anything that may have lodged in the idle circuit. Also the float needle/seat may be sticking and not allowing fuel into the carb. You can take the top cover off and remove the float to see if the needle moves freely in the seat bore. Turn the cover over (upside down) or lift the float by hand and see if it moves freely.

This new alcohol gasoline SUCKS! I'm not sure about your state, but we have mandatory 10% ethanol. It becomes like syrup if it sits. I have had to disassemble every carb I have on lawn mowers, trimmers, etc. to un-gunk the idle passages. Once you get it running get some Sta-Bil marine daily use ethanol treatment at NAPA. It has worked very well for me.

New carbs should not just not work. It is most likely something very simple that you just can't see.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for your help guys. Today we removed the carburetor to look inside, and we noticed a small piece of metal as well as some gunk inside the bowl. Not sure how it got there because the filters should've caught anything that big, but anyways, we removed them and cleaned out the bowl with carb cleaner and compressed air. We also took a look at the float and needle. Both seemed to be moving freely, however the float had very limited mobility. So much so that it seemed to always be in the closed position so we bent the piece that limits it's movement a little to give it more movement inside the bowl.

Aside from that, we also replaced the condenser and point in the distributor and voila, she runs. Thanks again for the advise, however, as always, you fix one thing and another problem arises.

Problem two. She has an automatic transmission, and it seems to stay in first gear the whole time. We got up to 35 miles per hour and she was still in first. Any advise on how to diagnose transmission problems.

Thanks.
 

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You have more than one problem, fuel filters in carbs have a spring behind them, if they becom plugged, the pressure forces the fuel filter back, to allow unfiltered gas in, this it to keep you from becoming stranded, but eventually will plug, passages and orifices in the carb, like the idle, main metering jets, etc. My advice is to take a small amount of gas, like a 1/4 of a cup and dump down the carb throat, then start the car is it starts and revs up as you give it gas and then dies, you have a fuel starvation problem. I always take the fuel line off the carb, and put on a piece of flex fuel line (rubber type), and put in it a 1lb metal coffee can, and crank the engine for 20 seconds, you should have at least a pint of gas in the can, this is a fuel pump capacity test, if it is successful it eliminates everything fuel related except for the carb. If you have bad gas in the tank, it needs to be drained and flushed or at a minimum drained and the gas replaced. As for the trans, check the vacuum line to the vacuum modulator valve on the trans, it should have engine vacuum, if it does, the modulator valve may be bad, usually the vacuum line on it has trans fluid in it indicating it is leaking. Post your results. Good Luck.
 
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