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Hey all,

Im am in need of some help with replacing the neutral safety switch on my '65 mustang. The car had been garaged for 14 years and I was given it on my 19th b-day about a month ago now. As expected there have been some problems with it as its breaking in again as I drive it around. One of those problems is that I need to replace the neutral safety switch. From my research so far it seems like a quick fix a novice like myself can handle and save a substantial about of time and money

I am looking for essentially step by step process as to remove and replace the neutral safety switch. Any feedback is greatly appreciated guys.

-John
 

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standard or auto trans ?

for A/T click this

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?chapterTitle=Automatic+Transmission&partName=Drive+Train&pageId=0900c1528007eece&partId=0900c1528007ecba#hd1-1-2

NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH



1964-67 Models

  1. With the manual linkage properly adjusted, try to engage the starter in each position on the quadrant. The starter should engage only in Neutral or Park.
  2. Remove the handle from the shift lever and the chrome trim panel from the top of the console.
  3. Place the lever in neutral, remove the quadrant retaining screws and indicator light, and lift the quadrant from the console.
  4. Loosen the switch attaching screws and move the shift lever back and forth until the gauge pin (No. 43 drill) can be inserted into the gauge pin holes.
  5. Place the shift lever in neutral and slide the switch back and forward until the switch actuating lever contacts the shift lever.
  6. Reassemble the shift quadrant in the console.
  7. Check the starter engagement as in step one.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Auto Transmission.

Thank you sooooo much. On my spring break this week and it would kill me to see my baby just sit there the entire time if i couldn't find the steps to it.

Awesome, thank you
 

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Hello.:) Those were the instructions for a 1970 model car. On the 65s the neutral safety switch is bolted to the side of the transmission. You have to get under the car, remove the shift arm and the kick-down linkage from the side of the transmission, which is a very simple matter. One nut, one cotter pin. You'll see how to do it once you get under there. Unplug the four wires coming out of the switch. The plug connections are up under the hood, a little to the passenger side of the master cylinder. Then remove the two bolts holding the switch to the side of the transmission. Installation is the reverse of what you just did. Hope that helps. :)
 

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Veronica,

Please speak to the adjustment after the Neutral Safety Switch is installed. What are the steps using that little hole on the side of the Switch?

I have the same problem adjusting the switch to Park and Neutral.
 

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Did you not click the link I posted to view the illustrations ?

IIRC, the NSS adjustment is as the instructions say it is

This is how the adjustment was made on the trans mounted NSS
"Neutral Start Switch"
 

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Hi again. :) The way that I always did it was to put both the transmission and the shifter handle in park when I took the old one off, so, with everything still in those positions, slide the new switch onto the transmission to where it looked about right, hook up the arm that goes from the shifter to the transmission, spin the switch around a little bit to line up the bolt holes if it needed it, install the bolts, and then check and see if everything works like it's supposed to, which it does 99% of the time. Once in a blue moon I would have to re-adjust the shift rod because it didn't want to go all the way into park as comfortably as I would like it to, but, it isn't nearly as complicated a thing as the factory procedure would seem to indicate. That's one of things that, if you study it a little too closely, you'l just make things hard on yourself. :)
 

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Making the adjustment in PARK opposed to neutral (the proper way) is what causes the problem.

if you set the adjustment in neutral...the park position works out fine.
 

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Making the adjustment in PARK opposed to neutral (the proper way) is what causes the problem.

if you set the adjustment in neutral...the park position works out fine.
Hi again. :) Ok, I'll bite. How you could you possibly know that, having never actually replaced a neutral safety switch in a 65/66 Mustang yourself? If you had replaced one at some time in the past, you would have known that it's on the transmission, and not in the shifter. If you were familiar with this system, you wouldn't have asked if the car was a manual or an automatic, because no Mustang built between March of 64 and August of 69 that came with a manual transmission even had a neutral safety switch. kcmomustang asked me a question, and I answered it. There is no merit derived by arguing with me solely for the sake of being argumentative.
 

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Pissing contest huh ?


Because that is the way they are adjusted.The same system was used on F-series light trucks with C6 starting in 1978.
I have done plenty on them.

Yes there are NSS's for early standard transmission stangs
You must have miussed the part where I own a April 5th/64 car ?

BTW, I am still waiting for your proof for Parts numbers starting with C4ZZ for Mustangs built from march -August 64 like you profess on your misinformation blog

I have proof they don't exist.

Only C5ZZ PARTS numbers for these year stangs .
 

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You seem to be under the impression that owning that one-of-thousands car of yours is something special. If buying a car was all that was required to be able to successfully work on that car, there would be no such thing as auto mechanics.
The original poster asked how to replace the neutral safety switch on his car and you told him to start dismantling his shifter. That's not just a little bit wrong, that's just plain silly. You have said that there are neutral safety switches for 65/66 Mustangs that came with manual transmissions. I will let you crawfish into how you're actually talking about some aftermarket items, because, to say that a manual transmission 65/66 Mustang left the factory with a neutral safety switch is, again, just plain silly. To say that there aren't dozens, if not hundreds, of original parts on an early 65 Mustang that have the number C4Z something stuck on the back of it is, once more, just plain silly. All of these just scream a complete lack of any hands-on experience with early Mustangs. If you expect people to take you seriously, you might want to consider hanging around for a while, posting things that have a little more substance than either referring someone to a link or posting something that is so wrong, it's ludicrous, and establish a little bit of credibility.

What I plan on doing from here is letting this go, now that you have had the opportunity to formally introduce yourself to everyone here, and you can have the last word. I'm through with it. The people here can now form their own ideas of who's advice is worth listening to. They are people with real-world cars that are experiencing actual problems, and they would like to know how to fix the problem that their car is having. It isn't about points or status or anything, it's about getting cars back on the road.There is absolutely no reason to get the moderators involved in this, and, that could very easily happen if I was inclined to participate in one of those disgusting 'contests' you mentioned.
 

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There was tons of scarcasm in my last post...it seems you missed it.


Disgusting Contest ?......Yet you continue on with it with your last post.

It is You that has the chip on your shoulder.
Why did you instruct him wrongly about making the adjustment ?

People get the problems when they do it in PARK and Not neutral like YOU suggested .. remember it is called a Neutral start switch for a reason ;)

Don't forget You and your C4ZZ part numbers.... is still wrong

You have no idea who you are talking to.. are you are full of assumptions and full of offensive commentary.

People will see more about you and what you do here than me..
 
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