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Discussion Starter #1
I am considering going to an electric fan setup. Is itworth the money in terms of practicality and power? And what is a good setup for the 289?
 

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The electric fan I used for a while wasn't that quiet and it needed an alt upgrade in my case. I want back to a flex a lite fan + shroud and it runs great.
 

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Hi,
As mentioned above, a shroud and flex fan will do the job if attention to details is applied.
An electric fan introduces another layer of maintenance, not to mention the additional load on the alternator and it, possibly, having to be replaced. There is additional weight of the unit which reduces HP potential. So, now you may be faced with replacing it, an additional expense. Not to mention, an alternator with the additional load of the electric fan creates additional parasitic HP loss.
It has been often mentiond, the stock two rads are rather anemic to begin with. However, It's service can be greatly improved by, insuring it's clean, runing a 50/50 coolant mix, 180/190 TS (depending on your year car), a shroud, with the fan blades placed within 50% of the shroud and within 1"of the rad surface. Also, adding a coolant recovery system and a proper rated pressure cap. This is based on a "stock" 289.
Adding any performance items? Simply, replace the rad with a 3-4 row, while keeping all of the other recommendations.
Happy Trails!
 

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A stock fan does reduce the overall horsepower of the engine, but the major issue is it's cooling capacity. Since the fan is part of the engine, it's only turning as fast or a slow as the engine is. So if the engine is all the way up at 190F, and your idling, the fan is only turning at idle speed. This doesn't sufficiently move enough air to cool down the fluid in the radiator.

An electric fan, on the other hand, kicks on whenever a certain temperature (say 180-190F) is reached. And it runs at full speed. Most electric fans move 2000-3000 cfm at full load and are rated at around 10,000 hours of life. Yes, the fan will draw extra juice, causing the alternator to work harder. Its up to you if you wanna beef up your alternator and get an electric fan, or keep the mechanical one and just put a new fan/shroud on.

Replacing the 2 row radiator with a 3 or 4 row one (especially an aluminum one) will greatly improve your cooling as well.
 

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Kenash has many good points in his post.

My question to you is why replace a fan that has worked for decades? It is such a simple design that has only one failure point: the belt. If you are having cooling problems, your money is better spent (IMHO) on a larger radiator as suggested by kenash. He also mentions the additional complexity introduced by the electrical fan.

The old adage of K.I.S.S is still relavant today. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks to all of you. You have presented good points. I have a 3 row rad and it has helped tremendously in this killer heat, it keeps it cool very well. I was just thinking of going to electric fan strictly for more hp. But all things considered I think im gonna stick with the stock fan. It has not had a shroud on it since i have had the car. Should I invest in one?
 

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yes! having a fan shroud (with correct fan clearance around 1/2" or less) helps the fan direct air flow away from the radiator. without a shroud the fan is less efficient
 

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yes! having a fan shroud (with correct fan clearance around 1/2" or less) helps the fan direct air flow away from the radiator. without a shroud the fan is less efficient
Spot on brother!
 

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ok thank you, I will definitely be purchasing one soon
Hi,

I'll offer again...Do you have a coolant recovery system installed? If not, add it as well. After a number of cycles, any air will be purged from the cooling system. We all know, coolant absorbs heat, not air!
Happy Trails!
 

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What do you mean a coolant recovery system? Pardon my ignorance.
Hi Daniel,
A coolant recovery system is a tank of some type that is mounted nearby the rad. The hose from the rad over flow nipple is routed to the tank, instead of downward to the ground. It's operation is to route any coolant that would, normally, be expelled on the ground in times of overheating, to the coolant recovery tank. Later, when the system is cooling down, negative pressure exists in the rad which pulls coolant back into the rad from the tank. Overtime, this process expels any air in the cooling system and replaces it with coolant. Coolant absorbs heat, air does not.
Hope this helps.
 

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I been thinking about adding a coolant recovery overflow bottle/tank to my '66 coupe too. I dont get any overflow onto the ground, but still would be a nice addition im thinking. I have had a 3 row since i bought the car. never have problems really, but it doesn't get over 80 degree's here often.

I think most people mount a tank of some type close to the windshield washer bad....? The bottom half of a milk jug maybe ? lol

So, we are both waiting on an answer. Thanx :yup:
 

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Anyone know where you would get a decent overflow bottle/tank for a 66? And where to mount it?

Hi,
Check with the usual auto parts stores first. Jegs, & Summit sell them. Here's an example of one that mounts to your rad support. These come in many different configurations.
Be Cool Aluminum Overflow Recirculating Catch Can - JEGS

I found this on JEG's site. These are a little more expensive, being aluminum, but, it gives you an idea what's out there.

In the pic, you'll see my coolant cylinder connected to my Monte Carlo bar. I mounted it there because it 16-17" tall and would not mount next to my rad as it interfered with my horns mounted on either side of the frame near the bottom of the rad.

Be aware, there is a distinction between coolant recovery and true coolant expansion tanks. Coolant recovery tanks have a simple type screw cap. True coolant expansion tanks have a pressure style radiator cap and are usually used in systems, wherein, the rad filler opening is mounted lower than the recovery tank.
However, our mustangs will utilize the simple coolant recovery system tanks. Mounting them is a matter dependent on whose system you purchase and "your" fabrication ingenuity. It's not to say, you can't use a coolant expansion style tank and simply replace the pressure cap with a "blank style" rad cap.
Good Luck!
 

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I been thinking about adding a coolant recovery overflow bottle/tank to my '66 coupe too. I dont get any overflow onto the ground, but still would be a nice addition im thinking. I have had a 3 row since i bought the car. never have problems really, but it doesn't get over 80 degree's here often.

I think most people mount a tank of some type close to the windshield washer bad....? The bottom half of a milk jug maybe ? lol

So, we are both waiting on an answer. Thanx :yup:
Hi,
Actually, that corner area (washer bag) is a popular spot.
I'll add, even though you get "don't get any overflow onto the ground", you will still benefit from their use for all of the reasons I eluded. If you can safely remove you're rad cap, most likely, your coolant level is just covering the fins. So, there is an air space there. If move my rad cap, the coolant level is right at the spot where the cap's rubber seal meets the opening, thus, no air. This provides for maximum utilization of coolant's abilities and offers that margin of protection in times where you might be in stalled traffic, or having to idle for long periods.
Happy Trails!
 

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I am little late jumping in, but...........

I am little late jumping in, but...........

I like clutch fans on a '66 - they are better than stock, and they look like they belong on a '66 -

Look here -
Hayden - Fan Clutches and Fan Blades
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Oh ok, well yes I do have a gallon antifreeze jug under hood with the tube running into it.
 
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