Ford Mustang Forum banner
1 - 6 of 6 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone my wife has a 1966 289 automatic mustang. Just bought a shocks for front and back and springs for front. As well as a power brake master cylinder.

1. How difficult is it to upgrade a 1 bowl master cylnder to a 2 bowl power brake master cylnder. She has disc in front and drum in back. Could I do it my self and does anyone know any good instalation videos.

2. It it possible to install shocks and springs I have a jack and jack stands but not a lift.

Thanks Justin
 

· Registered
Joined
·
6,286 Posts
It's actually impossible to install shocks and springs. They've never been installed on these cars.

No, I kid.

Are you talking front coil spring, rear leaf spring, which spring? Both will give you some trouble but for different reasons. All can be done with jack and jack stands.

The shocks are easy. For the rear shocks, you'll need to remove the rear seat so you can get access to the upper shock mount and remove the nut bolting the shocks down. Then underneath the car, unbolt the shock from the lower shock mount on the coil spring and replace shocks.

For the fronts, the unbolt the shock from the top of the shock tower cap--2 bolts right on top. Then unbolt the shock tower cap--3 bolts. The shock is held on by two bolts at the bottom bolting it to the spring perch. Remove these (they're actually nuts), and the shock pulls out through the top.

Coil spring has potential to be very dangerous so it must be compressed and removed very carefully. It requires a coil spring compressor that can be freely rented from an auto parts store. You'll need to handle the compressed spring like a bomb; very carefully. The spring is compressed and then it just lifts out of the car.

This blog entry I wrote describes removal and installation of a coil spring.

1967 Mustang Restoration: Upper control arms: [Shelby] Drop em if you got em
 

· Registered
Joined
·
311 Posts
While you have the front springs out, you could do the Arning drop which involves drilling 4 holes which lowers the upper control arm. The simple mod will help your car handle way better than stock. With an alignment to Shelby specs you will think you have a different car.
The power brake conversion is pretty straight forward. You will have to bench bleed the master cylinder, bend some lines from the master to the distribution block and bleed the brakes. Help is available here on the forum. Bill
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,565 Posts
Lots of threads about converting to power brakes on this forum, some from me. Just do a search. As far as the difficulty, like a lot of things, it depends on your level of expertise, both in knowledge and mechanical capability. Obviously the knowledge part can be learned--I've certainly done that myself.

But I have to say that of all the things I've done on my '66 coupe, switching to power brakes has been one of the more frustrating and demanding. It takes a special booster and M/C because there isn't a lot of room in there. And for the same reason, the lack of room makes it difficult to get your hands and tools in there.

There may be videos on YouTube.
 

· Tech Advisor
Joined
·
5,659 Posts
With regards to switching to a dual bowl mater brake cylinder, yes, a good thing. The 1974 maverick is a direct replacement for drum/drum, disc/drum & power systems. The really only thing you do need is to replace the rear brake line....IIRR
 
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top