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Discussion Starter #1
Good Morning,

After I posted several questions how to tear down my 289, I have finally got it completely disassembled and I'm ready to start rebuiling it. I have a few questions for the site's experts...
1. What parts should I have acid dipped?
2. What parts should I buy brand new? (besides obviously gaskets, seals, and other expendables...)
3. What should I do next?

Thanks in advance!
Mike V
'66 Coupe, Wimb Wht, C Cd, 289-2V, C-4 Trans, All Orig.
 
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1/2: You'll need to inspect the parts and measure them with a micrometer to know for sure. You'll probably be better off letting a good machine shop do that, as they have the tools, and those tools can be pretty expensive, where machining services for a street engine run between $100-150 for just the basics (cleaning it all, measuring it all, and honing and polishing surfaces).

3. See #1 and #2.
 

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Both of the above. Make sure they are familar with Fords. An experienced builder can spot things you might miss. They also usually know some good short cuts, but not cutting corners. Good luck with the project!
Dave
 

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Where ever you take your heads to have a valve job done on, can also hot tank your block and any other large pieces, I usually just clean the other parts with a solvent like kerosene or gasoline (be careful), never clean a set of pistons and rods with lacquer thinner, and as the other guys said the bores and bearings need to be checked, you can purchase a manual on rebuilding the small block ford, (289-302) try Amazon.com, and you can rent a micrometer set from most rental places, and if you have a friend that is a auto mechanic see if he can help you get things checked. If the bores are too worn, it might be cheaper to find a 302 block at a salvage yard in better shape, and either rebuild it, or use the block for your 289, other wise you will have to have the block bored and buy oversized pistons and rings. Also I take it, you are after a stock rebuild not a racing rebuild. If you plan on rebuilding yourself without help, just remember, not putting something in correctly, or not torquing a rod or main bearing for example to specs, can spell disaster and not just money. I've rebuilt several sbf engines and I always double check myself before I move to the next step, never get in a hurry, and never skip steps. Good Luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks

Thanks for all the input. Will definitely take it to a machine shop... And also, Rex, thanks for all the good info... Specifically, which parts require touring? This is ny first rebuild, and I'm not sure.... Thank in advance for your reply.
 

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Almost all the bolts on the engine have a torque specification, this applied with a torque wrench set to the specified torque or if it is a pointer type torque wrench you have to watch the gauge until the required torque if reached, then stop, some things like head gaskets, main bearing caps, intake manifolds, are torqued in a set of steps and in a alternating order, the manuals give this information. When a bolt is torqued to its spec it is actually stretched a little, this keeps it from working loose in the engine. Some claim that once a head bolt is torqued to never reuse it. Good Luck.
 
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