Have you checked the wear pattern on the valve stems (reference P/R geometry)?
Have you checked the wear pattern on the valve stems (reference P/R geometry)?Hello all, I rebuilt the engine in my 66' mustang and now its got an odd clatter to it. it sounds like the valve lash is out of adjustment but ive set it 3 times myself then had a mechanic set it for me, no dice, still sounds real bad. it seems to be running ok but it sounds like a diesel, and it smooths out a little at higher rpm's. the engine was a 289 that I stroked to 347 during the rebuild using a DSS kit, has World Products windsor SR. heads, a melbourne 208 cam, hydraulic lifters, hardened pushrods, and a new oil pump. Ive been screwing with it for quite a wile and I can seem to find what the problem is.:helpsmilie:
OK, what is the details when you state "they are the same heads I had on it before and it didn't clatter then"? More details might help. Why were the heads removed? Is this a solid lifter roller valve train?no but they are the same heads I had on it before and it didn't clatter then.
I mean I used the same heads I had on the engine when I rebuilt it, I had only put them on about 5000 miles before the rebuild and they worked fine then. I also used the same pushrods that I had in the engine before the rebuild. the valve train consist of a solid cam with hydraulic lifters, hardened pushrods, stamped rockers, and stainless steel valves.OK, what is the details when you state "they are the same heads I had on it before and it didn't clatter then"? More details might help. Why were the heads removed? Is this a solid lifter roller valve train?
ive been there before man, but when I push on the back of the rockers I can fell the lifters push back. good advice thoI had a collapsed hydraulic lifter once and it made a noise that drove me nuts for awhile, you may want to check into that,,,
well I did put a new torque converter in during the build, ill have a look at that. thxIf you had a new flywheel or clutch installed after the rebuild. Look at the the splash gaurd clearance on the torque converter/clutch bolts, the stamped piece of tin behind the oil pan. Held on by 2 or 3 bolts and attaches to the trans. It will act like you described kindof go away but not really at high rpm. And it will sound like a valve tick like what you got. Just my $.02