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Discussion Starter #1
I just bought a 1966 GT, it needs alot of TLC. I would like to restore it to original stock condition. I was wondering which intake manifold came on the car stock as well as which carburetor. Right now it has some type of Edelbrock with a 600 cfm Holly carb. The car is an "A" code 289. I also heard that the owner who had it before the person I bought it from might have put a different cam, is there anyway to tell?
It also has headers on it.

Maybe I should leave the motor as it is??

appreciate any feedback....
 

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Hello Mike,

If you want 'original stock' then your car had no headers, no Edelbrock, no Holley and no special cam. The only '66 289s with a different cam were the HiPo's; all others used the same cam. There were 4 different carb numbers for the '66 A-code engines depending upon whether you had an automatic/manual and/or T/E emission controls. Only the HiPo had a 600 CFM Autolite which adds a few more possible carb numbers but they were not A-codes. The intake manifold for all of them was the same as for all 4V 289s from 1966: C6OE-9425-B which was used for 65/66/67.

We need more info about what you have and/or what you want before we can give you much of anything useful.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Gary,
In your opinion, do you think I am better off keeping the edelbrock and the holly? Obviously it is an upgrade from stock. And if I don't end up having to rebuild the motor, maybe it is best left alone for now.
If I do end up rebuilding the motor, I would rather have a bone stock, back to original motor as I am not interested in racing this car as much as showing it off. And I think it would be more valueable if it was all original. Would you agree?
 

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Edelbrocks are a good manifold. It is probably aluminum too which makes it a lot lighter then the stock steel boat anchor that it originally came with.
 

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Gary,
In your opinion, do you think I am better off keeping the edelbrock and the holly? Obviously it is an upgrade from stock.
What you describe are changes which, depending upon what was done and how, are not necessarily upgrades. Different by itself is not necessarily better or an upgrade and can make things worse if incorrectly done.

You are asking the wrong guy. The goal for everything I own, Mustangs included, is almost always box stock original. If I didn't like what was originally built I don't buy one.
 

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I think the big question is" are you going to drive the car and enjoy it, or are you going to sell it? If you plan on driving it, then the possibilities are many for mods or putting it back to original, costs can go either way depending on how patient you are and how well you do in locating the parts at the right price. My only recommendation is to convert to a dual master cylinder for the brakes, the single master cylinder is a accident waiting to happen. My 2 cts. Good Luck.
 

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Personally, I would leave the engine as is, at least for now. Unless you're trying to win concourse shows, the modifications you've described aren't major dealbreakers in terms of adversely affecting the value of the car. Chances are they will affect it very little, or might even make it more valuable to the right person who doesn't want a bone stock engine. The bottom line is these are all bolt-on upgrades...the intake, carb, and headers (maybe not the cam, but hard telling what it has, I'd just leave it be until rebuild)...which means they are easily reversible should the situation ever call for it. But as it stands now, your car is a little more fun to drive with these modifications so I'd stick with them.:bigthumbsup
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Im most likely going to restore and sell it. I'm more of a Chevy person and would like to get a 68 Camaro. I think I will just leave it for now and see what happens. I don't even know yet if the Mustang will start. Still waiting on my new ignition switch to show up so I can install it. I was going to just hot wire it but I can be patient and wait for the switch. Plus there are tons of other things I can do in the mean time.

1. Clutch pedal stays on the floor when you press it. It doesnt appear that the clutch linkage is even hooked up.

2. Drain the fuel tank, who knows how old the gas is but Im betting about 8 years old.

3. Possible wiring harness replacement. The electrical has been hacked and re-hacked. Different stereos put in, all kinds of toggle switches and some stuff has been cut off and I don't know what it went to originally.
 
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