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Hey all, I posted something to this effect earlier in the Talk forum incorrectly, I was hoping to maybe get some good feedback here too.

1966 Coupe with Factory Paint (I believe) Daily Driver in Raining Climate

1. There are small rust spots speckled around the car. Nothing thats gotten into the body just discoloration on the paint and maybe some slight slight divits in the hood and quarter panel edges. I want to get on this pronto because it rains cats and dogs here and having it spread would kill me.
a. How do I seal it completely from start to finish without painting the whole car.
b. How do I put a clear coat over the patches I painted.
c. What tools do I need for this.
d. If I have to sand something whats the best way to do it?
e. How do I find the silver color the car shipped with for touch ups.
2. Theres a decent grinding vibration coming from the rear of the car when it idles sometimes. I don't know if its something in the interior rattling (sounds too deep for that) or something else. As soon as the engine revs up it dissapears.

3. I think this was addressed in the other forum but there is the oder of gasoline sort of throughout the car, strongest in the rear above the fuel tank. No gasoline collects under the car when its parked however, and i don't think its pooling anywhere inside the body.

4. The temperature guage reads pretty close to C. Of course it might just mean the engine's actually just not warmed up. How do I make sure its not broken or anything.

5. What kind of oil should I put in the car and how can I check all the fluid levels? (auto transmission, no power steering)

So yeah not a lot of major stuff and if you can't tell I just bought this car and I just don't want to put extra wear on it because I wasn't maintaining it right. I love it and I am grateful to have this forum as a resource.:bigthumbsup
 

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1. Rust is a cancer. It tends to spread under the paint where you can't see it. To properly fix it, you'll need to sand the paint away and see how far it goes. Sand it down, spray with a rust converter like Extend or POR-15. Then prep and paint in standard fashion.

2. Since it only happens when at idle/not moving, you know it's not grinding. Check and see if the muffler or tailpipe is vibrating and banging around.

3. Could be an actual leak in the tank. But most likely it's the rubber hose that connects the tank to the filler neck. Replace that first.

4. Does the heater work? If so, the engine is getting hot and the gauge is bad. If not, the thermostat is probably stuck open.

5. I generally use a quality synthetic oil. In street cars I use Penzoil or QS. The transmission dip stick is in the rear of the engine bay, passenger side.

2.
 

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3. I think this was addressed in the other forum but there is the oder of gasoline sort of throughout the car, strongest in the rear above the fuel tank. No gasoline collects under the car when its parked however, and i don't think its pooling anywhere inside the body.

5. What kind of oil should I put in the car and how can I check all the fluid levels? (auto transmission, no power steering)
3. Is the oder you are getting gas or exhaust? If its gas, you may want to check the hose, but most likely its exhaust. If you have the pipes coming out the rear valance, the exhaust creates a cloud behind the car and gets sucked in the trunk if your trunk seal is old and cracked. Check the trunk seal, if its not spongy and has cracks in it, you should change it. The seal is about $12 and the weatherstipping adhesive is about $10. Mark off the trunk at the hing before removing the deck lid and its an easy fix. Other than that... check for any other holes in the trunk area that could draw in air.

5. I recommend Royal Purple Synthetic. Its a little pricey but I put that in my 289 and she loves it! Runs smooth and clean. I hear Gastrol synthetic is also recommended. Synthetic is probably your best bet with these older cars.
 

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3. Is the oder you are getting gas or exhaust? If its gas, you may want to check the hose, but most likely its exhaust. If you have the pipes coming out the rear valance, the exhaust creates a cloud behind the car and gets sucked in the trunk if your trunk seal is old and cracked. Check the trunk seal, if its not spongy and has cracks in it, you should change it. The seal is about $12 and the weatherstipping adhesive is about $10. Mark off the trunk at the hing before removing the deck lid and its an easy fix. Other than that... check for any other holes in the trunk area that could draw in air.
+1
Except the seals and adhesive are not quite that expensive - and go ahead and remove the deck lid to scrape off the old seal.

The trunk weatherstrip is usually the culprit.
 

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4. Replace your temperature sender. It shouldn't be far from the thermostat, where your upper radiator hose attaches to the motor. Once you replace that, the gauge should read right in the middle once warmed up.
 
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