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Discussion Starter #1
Well I have an aftermarket radiator with 2 x 1" tubes in there with a 16 inch electric fan. The fan rubbed a few holes in the fins and it was leaking so I crimped them as best I could then I had stop leak put in it. The other day when I was stuck in traffic I saw it over heat from 200 to 240 degrees and even with the fan on and the heater it wouldn't cool off.
So when I finally got through the stoppage and back up to highway speeds it cooled off.
The next day I installed a second fan as a pusher up front while the other one was a puller. But it hasn't gotten any better the engine still overheats.
The thermostat that I installed is a 160d but its not stock. Its one of those failsafe ones. But I don't know if its clogged or not?
After I overheated today I turned the engine off and ran the fans for a few and it didn't seem to cool it off until I started the engine and pumped the water.
The timing is 8 degrees the plugs are stock.
What is going on here? Thanks in advance for any help you can give me.
 

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from what i have been told stop leak sucks.it clogs up jackets thermostats radiator passages and what not. test the t stat in a pot on the stove make sure it opens i bought one of those new and it wasnt functioning and i over heated replaced it and i was good to go
 

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Flush your system really good, especially your heater core if you want heat. swap out the radiator for a new one. Stop leak is for selling a used car to some sucker, I loath the jerks that do such a thing. I would rather buy a car where i know what im in for rather than a POS that was loaded with sealer to make a sale. Also your car can not cool itself with the engine off other than radiating the heat naturally which takes hrs. If you love your car do as i say, new radiator..about 120 bucks, coolant about 30, shove a water hose in to your hoses to try to flush out all the rust colored crap, your heater core will take a heavy hit from this "Sealer" JUNK! In the future just swap out parts, better than a engine swap.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Now I noticed the fan that I just installed up front has worn a hole in one or more tubes just like the one in the back did. It looks like I'm in the market for a new radiator. Where can I get one for $120?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So I can't afford a new radiator now but I was hoping to solder up the holes in the old one and put in antifreeze and water back into the system and nothing else.
I bought some of that alumaseal stuff for soldering aluminum in the hopes that it works.
It does seem like it would be easier and smarter to just replace the radiator with a new one. But since I can't find a decent replacement for it and I haven't heard back from anyone here I'm going to go out on a limb and just try and fix what I got. If the solder sticks to the tubes I should be back up and running in no time. While the system in drained I'm going to check the thermostat and replace it with a 195 or 185 that I have sitting around. And I'm going to install the old temp gauge from the 6 banger that was in there. It wouldn't fit before because it was to small and I needed an adapter from Napa to get it to fit. This should give me a second opinion on the temp of the engine. I'm not asking for help this time just putting out my idea's here. If you have something that might help that I didn't mention please reply. But it looks as if I'm going it alone again.
 

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The alumaseal is a last resort but very effective sealer for just about any leak in the system, and it doesnt do like Bars leak does with all the crap. You just add it while the car is running with radiator cap off of course before its hot, then add the aluma seal in and once its added put cap on let run for a bit and it will seal leaks. Of course the raditator will be diff from the stock, it was for a stang not a Lincoln right?
 

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-160-degree stats rarely help & will frequently run noticeably hotter @ idle. You're on the right track w/ a 180.

-What's the CFM rating of your electric fan(s)? Undersized electric fans aren't uncommon...

-An adequate radiator, an OEM fan or similar, (many aftermarket "flex" fans don't move enough air) and a good fan shroud will usually work just fine...

Funnel
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Its not the amulma seal stuff that I was thinking about using. Its alumaweld soldering rods from harbor freight. It suppose to be able to solder aluminum like you would with copper or pot metal radiators.
I'm not sure what the CFM of the fans are but they are out of a late model ford taurus. I'm going to take a picture of the soldered holes and post it so you can see what I'm talking about. The stock fan and shroud is starting to look like a good idea.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The alumaseal is a last resort but very effective sealer for just about any leak in the system, and it doesnt do like Bars leak does with all the crap. You just add it while the car is running with radiator cap off of course before its hot, then add the aluma seal in and once its added put cap on let run for a bit and it will seal leaks. Of course the raditator will be diff from the stock, it was for a stang not a Lincoln right?
Yeah the radiator was for a 66 mustang v-8 with the lower rad hose on the driver side. I got it off ebay. But it doesn't seem to cool for beans.
 

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A radiator shop can recore the one you have for about $50, if you can't afford that it's time to look for some additional income.
 

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Discussion Starter #13

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Discussion Starter #14
Fixed! Changed the T-stat and hooked up the stock temp gauge and it says its below half on the hottest day.
 
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