Ford Mustang Forum banner

1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
43 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Everyone, I'm working on the driver's side door on my '66 coupe. The issues with the door are that the latch mechanism does not line up with the striker. As you look at the door the trim lines also do not line up, the door just sits a little low. I do not think this is with the hinge bushings, as the door does not have any up and down play. I am also confident the latch does not function properly, so when I get the door lined up I plan to replace the latch. As I have the door taken apart I plan to replace the window rollers, the felt, and window runs. The first step (I think) is lining up the door. I thought this would be fairly easy but it is not proving to. So my question is:


Do I need to remove the front fender to loosen the hinge-to-body bolts on the hinge? I read that I did, but even this is proving difficult, something that will be very hard to bolt back on.


Thanks for the help.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,279 Posts
Ok stop there...

You're going to do a few things that aren't necessary. The window runs are just metal runs..unless they're rusted out beyond salvage, there's no need to replace them. Just clean them up good with a degreaser and then regrease.

The window rollers...unless they're in bad shape I wouldn't try replacing them because if memory serves me correctly, they are attached to the window by large rivets, not the little clips like the quarter window. Clean these up well too and try to get some graphite lubrication inside the roller.

To replace the beltline felts and seals, you'll have to remove the rubber bumper at the bottom of the door so the window can drop all the way down, and I'll just tell you now that bumper is a ***** to get back in. Don't add the beltline felts until you've reinstalled the window.

There is also a felt in the front window channel that goes up along the vent window. It may be possible to replace this without removing the vent window...the channel just pulls out and the new one snaps into place. On the 66, there is then a little triangular seal that screws to the very top of the vent window so get a new one of these too. If you do pull the vent window, I'd also plan on replacing the little strip of weatherstrip at the base of the window where it meets the door and the rubber seal at the front base of the vent window.

Unfortunately you will have to remove fender to get access to the door hinges. I'd adjust the gap after you have the window removed, it makes the door alot easier to hold and move. You will need a helper or two, and it helps to have shims along the rocker that the door sits on to ensure consistent gap the entire way back.

For what it's worth, the door striker and latch are also adjustable.

Here's a link to my blog where I reskinned and rebuilt a door to a 67.

1967 Mustang Restoration: Replacing door skin, part 1

1967 Mustang Restoration: door skin and repair, part 2

1967 Mustang Restoration: Door skin and repair, part 3
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
443 Posts
+1 on Lizer. Also, make sure you don't pull the fuzzies until you've got a replacement set in your paws.

I made that mistake a couple winters ago, only to find that the company that was making the felt part had either gone bankrupt or was in the middle of some horrible problems. No one could get any fuzzies anywhere. I managed to find a pair from a private garage out of Cali, but it was a really touch-and-go kind of thing.

Best of luck.

Doc
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,279 Posts
I got my felts recently, maybe this past winter. I got them through CJ's and they were Repops brand. Good quality product, exactly like the original and they fit in nicely. I'd recommend asking for these by name.

Except I'm going to have to get another set because I took the car to the sandblaster and the sand got inside the door so I have to completely regut it and clean everything up again. I am not sure if the felts will be again good to go back in once they've been removed. I doubt they will snap in tight.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
If you remove the door it will be much easier to rehang the door with the fender off. I just redid my hinge pins & don't know how can rehang a door with the fender on.
You should be able to get some adjustment by loosening the hinge bolts. You can get to the ones on the door with a standard 1/2" wrench. The ones on the pillar require an "S" shaped door hinge wrench.
If you do remove the door remove the hinges from the pillar side. The hinges are held in place with a backing plate if the plate falls out of the slot it sits in on the top hinge it's really hard to get back in place; I know this from experience.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
43 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
OK, this door project is taking forever. My gameplan was:

1. Take off the fender so that I could get at the door hinges. This is now complete. But, to my fellow novices out there, taking off the fender was not that easy. You need to take off the headlamp assembly and I had to take off the bumper. There are several bolts behind the headlamp that you must access from inside the wheelwell. There is also a bolt on the bottom of the fender, underneath the car, just under where the door hinges are. And lastly (and most painfully for me) there is a single bolt that you access by removing the panel that would be just outside your left foot as you were driving. There is a rubber dust cover that when removed will reveal a nut that holds the fender on.

2. My next planned step is to remove the window so that I can replace the felts and replace the door latch mechanism. I am stuck here now. I cannot get the window out. I removed both the forward and back stop but the back part of the window assembly will not fit through the gap in the top of the door. Does the whole window need to rotate aft to bring it out at an angle? Does the vent window need to be removed to remove the side window?
THanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
43 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Fender questions

Everyone, as I said above I recently got my fender off. The pics below are what I found. There is a little rust but nothing terrible. Now that I have it off, is there something I could do to the back of the fender and the area just forward of the door that could be a long term rust preventative? Obviously removing the surface rust first would be key, but is there a reasonably easy way to do this? The fender has very little surface rust and it looks like much of the original undercoating is still on. Could I just clean it then put some kind of paint over it? Thanks for th info.
 

Attachments

1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top