1966 foglight wiring question

Fog Lamps is correct




The power feed yellow 3-way connector near the fuse box ( alternate spot is to battery side of starter relay) goes to the C.B. from the other terminal of the CB the Light Blue/Black stripe wire runs to the Fog Lamp Switch

...once turned on ...power then flows through the other 2 wires.
Grey, and black

The gray wire runs to a connector at the firewall and continues to the lamps
The black wire goes to the headlight switch (see loose wire with bullet connector) to illuminate the tail-lights.

Here is my diagram



Here is Ford's

Top left hand corner

http://hammar.dyndns.org/~djhamma/wiring/1966/66exter.jpg

Ok, so what was the wire that they had put into my harness that I fried. Was that just the reproduction company's way of making it easy to install fog lamps? I am so lost now.LOL

Where one picks up 12 volts doesn't matter

The OEM harness I got for the 68 was designed to get power from the single bullet connector shown below

Is this where I sing because I double posted ?

So, basically, by your drawing, I just have to get a wire the same gauge as the rest of it, put the ring end that on it so that it can be attached to the C.B., and then, wherever I put the other end is entirely up to me, as long as it has constant voltage?

Hello. Ford's diagram, while, strictly speaking, is accurate, is also very easy to mis-interpret. What it's telling you to do is splice into the main power feed that comes from the hot side of the starter solenoid and brings power in to the headlight switch, fuse box and ignition switch. It also doesn't really give the impression that you are unplugging the taillight feed and interrupting it with the foglight switch, which is exactly what you are doing.

Splicing into the main power feed was not one of those Better Ideas from Ford. :gringreen Their objective was to have the car run safely and reliably throughout the warranty period. Then, they would prefer that you buy a new car. Splicing into that wire would be the beginning of the end for that wire, because you, by splicing into it, you are effectively turning it into a smaller wire at the point of splice and, consequently, the resistance to the current that the foglights, and everything else inside the car, draws will increase some, and the wire will corrode much more quickly at the point of splice, meaning that you would have all sorts of electrical issues waiting for you down the road.

How you want to run this wiring is very simple, and can be very easily done. Anyway that you go, you will need to make the wire that goes from the circuit breaker to the power source. Just attach the circuit breaker to the pedal bracket, like Ford did, and make the wire with a ring connector on each end. Attach one end to the circuit breaker and the other to the threaded stud on the back of the ignition switch. This way, the main power feed remains unmolested, and everything works just like it's supposed to except for how it will be better in one respect. Ford's setup had the foglights able to work all of the time, as in, it was possible to drive somewhere with the foglights on, forget to turn them off, and, when you come back to your car, your battery is dead. If you get the power from the back of the ignition switch, it isn't possible to forget about them and leave them on, unless you arrive, shut the car off, turn the key back to on position, and then walk away from the car with the key still in the ignition switch and in the on position..

Further note on the 68 that wire with the bullet connector that comes out of the harness near the fuse box is spliced into the Un-fused Main Power wire to the fuse box.

IMO, Ford was just cutting costs with options which is the norm for them.
Plug and play with as little cost as possible.
What I thought Ford should have done was have a keyed and un-keyed accessories power block besides the fuse block.
But, again, they want to sell THEIR options not provide for the aftermarket.

Help me Veronica

Veronica,
I have read your post and blog. I have found the two prong connector (rear turn signals) that is plugged into something that comes out of the steering column. Also, I looked for other wires coming from the same part of the harness as detailed in the pictures on your blog. My problem is that I only find a two prong connector (same yellow and black wires) but can not find a three prong connector. Is it possible my car only has a two prong connector here ilo three prong connector. PLEASE HELP!!!

By the way I have a 1966 Convertible that was built in September 1965 (don't know if that matters -- don't know if they have various designs based on MY/production date).

That would matter, because that means that it will have 65 wiring, not 66 wiring. February and March was when they started the swap between 65 parts and 66 parts.

Michigan Dave said:

Veronica,
I have read your post and blog. I have found the two prong connector (rear turn signals) that is plugged into something that comes out of the steering column. Also, I looked for other wires coming from the same part of the harness as detailed in the pictures on your blog. My problem is that I only find a two prong connector (same yellow and black wires) but can not find a three prong connector. Is it possible my car only has a two prong connector here ilo three prong connector. PLEASE HELP!!!

By the way I have a 1966 Convertible that was built in September 1965 (don't know if that matters -- don't know if they have various designs based on MY/production date).

Click to expand...

Hi again. That means that your car did not come with back-up lights originally. The third wire on the three wire connector of the tail light harness is the black wire with the red stripe that powers the back-up lights.

Thanks.

So can I use the wiring harness that came with my 66 fog light conversion kit (3 prong) or do I need to purchase a 65 fog lamp wiring harness? :scratchchin

Dave check the back of your headlight switch for a loose wire with a bullet connector.

If that is there, that where the tail-lights get the power from the fog lamp switch as shown on the diagrams that have been posted already in post #2

If you have the 65 wiring harness you need to splice into circuit wire #14 on this schematic which is what V's tech article means because they didn't introduce the tail-light pigtail until 66

http://hammar.dyndns.org/~djhamma/wiring/1965/1965e.jpg

Hi again. Actually, that's one of the things that make that diagram easy to mis-interpret. The female bullet connector shown in the foglight diagram is not the same female bullet connector shown in the headlight circuit, and to make it even more fun, they are both on a black wire. The bullet connector on the headlight plug is for the front turn signal/ parking light assembly. The foglight wire harness is a separate, free-standing system with that bullet connector having the chassis ground wire for the fog light plugged into it, which, just for extra fun, they both attach with the same screw on the radiator core support. The foglights pulled power from the tail light circuit when the headlights where on, and from a splice into the main power feed when the headlights where off from the factory.

But, to answer the question, :gringreen , if your car does not have the three prong connector, but now has back-up lights, someone has wired the back-up lights some way other than how the factory did it, and they will not be affected by your adding foglights. Just plug your wiring up color-to-color as if you had the three prong connectors in your car. The black wire with the red stripe which is for the back-up lights is not the wire in the middle of the connector. Just plug the connectors that you have into the foglight wiring, making sure that the black wire with the red stripe prongs aren't plugged into anything. Also make sure that you don't get things flipped around so that the yellow wire is plugged into anything other than another yellow wire, and you should be fine. I'll dig out some stuff and take some pictures which should help. It would vertainly be easier to just go ahead and get the 65 foglight stuff, but, last time I checked, that stuff wasn't free, so, if you don't want to go that way, you can very easily make what you have work just exactlylike you want it to.