Are all the vacuum hoses hooked up properly ?
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Hello. 
Does this sound like what your car is doing? You turn the key to the start position, it acts like it started, you let the key go to the on position, and the motor dies? If yes, then the problem is one from a very short list. If you have a factory tach, then the tach has probably died on you. They were wired inline on the wire that goes from the ignition switch to the coil. This wire, a resistor wire, is by-passed when the key is in the start position. If no on the factory tach, then either the resistor wire itself has failed, or your ignition switch is bad.
Does this sound like what your car is doing? You turn the key to the start position, it acts like it started, you let the key go to the on position, and the motor dies? If yes, then the problem is one from a very short list. If you have a factory tach, then the tach has probably died on you. They were wired inline on the wire that goes from the ignition switch to the coil. This wire, a resistor wire, is by-passed when the key is in the start position. If no on the factory tach, then either the resistor wire itself has failed, or your ignition switch is bad. 
Man, Veronica, that is great information....never heard of that!Hello.
Hi again. There is no 'piece' per se. How this system works is, when the key is in the start position, that sounds power from the ignition switch to the starter solenoid, going through the neutral safety switch along the way if you have an automatic. The starter solenoid sends power straight from the battery to the starter by the big, thick cables, and sends power to the coil by the brown wire on the 'I' post of the solenoid, with the brown wire splicing into the red wire with the green stripe at the firewall that goes to the + or 'bat' post on the coil. That is so power gets to the coil while the key is in the start position. When the key is moved to the on position power goes to the coil through a different route most of the way. There is a short run of a red wire with a green stripe coming off of the back of the ignition switch which plugs into a fat pink wire with some black sheathing on it. That fat pink wire goes to the firewall connector and, at the connector, turns back into that red/green wire which goes to the + or 'bat' post on the coil. The tach that would have come from the factory 'back in the day' would have had two wires coming out of the back of it for the tach itself and those two wires were connected by unplugging the red/green wire from the fat pink one behind the ignition switch and plugging the two tach wires into the unplugged ends of the red/green and pink wires. This might help. The Care and Feeding of Ponies: Mustang Ignition system 1965 and 1966
There is no 'piece' per se. How this system works is, when the key is in the start position, that sounds power from the ignition switch to the starter solenoid, going through the neutral safety switch along the way if you have an automatic. The starter solenoid sends power straight from the battery to the starter by the big, thick cables, and sends power to the coil by the brown wire on the 'I' post of the solenoid, with the brown wire splicing into the red wire with the green stripe at the firewall that goes to the + or 'bat' post on the coil. That is so power gets to the coil while the key is in the start position. When the key is moved to the on position power goes to the coil through a different route most of the way. There is a short run of a red wire with a green stripe coming off of the back of the ignition switch which plugs into a fat pink wire with some black sheathing on it. That fat pink wire goes to the firewall connector and, at the connector, turns back into that red/green wire which goes to the + or 'bat' post on the coil. The tach that would have come from the factory 'back in the day' would have had two wires coming out of the back of it for the tach itself and those two wires were connected by unplugging the red/green wire from the fat pink one behind the ignition switch and plugging the two tach wires into the unplugged ends of the red/green and pink wires. This might help. The Care and Feeding of Ponies: Mustang Ignition system 1965 and 1966Thank you for all your information and help, Veronica and Al. I am currently going through the 'trail and error' of figuring out my problem here.
What I did notice as observing under the hood and along the wires, were these wires (pictures attached) that looked to have hit the exhaust manifold and the plastic housing around them looks to be melted. The wires didn't look to be burnt, as you can see, but of course the #1 worry is why this wires weren't connected. Are you able to identify them with your guys' knowledge/experience? ..Thinking this may have a key factor in my issue with the car wanting to start up and stay running?
What I did notice as observing under the hood and along the wires, were these wires (pictures attached) that looked to have hit the exhaust manifold and the plastic housing around them looks to be melted. The wires didn't look to be burnt, as you can see, but of course the #1 worry is why this wires weren't connected. Are you able to identify them with your guys' knowledge/experience? ..Thinking this may have a key factor in my issue with the car wanting to start up and stay running?
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Hello. Given the location of those two wires, I have no idea what that is. :nogrinner They look like the two wires that are part of the engine gauge harness that go to the heater blower motor, but, I wouldn't think that those wires would even be able to reach that location, and you would see matching cut wires at the firewall connector. Do they actually go anywhere? :headscratch:
Given the location of those two wires, I have no idea what that is. :nogrinner They look like the two wires that are part of the engine gauge harness that go to the heater blower motor, but, I wouldn't think that those wires would even be able to reach that location, and you would see matching cut wires at the firewall connector. Do they actually go anywhere? :headscratch:I don't have my heater blower hooked up I believe. That could explain why they aren't connected. They are the wires that connect to the right side of the black piece that has all the other cords coming from it, attached to the firewall.. but I looked around and saw no other evidence of the other half of the connection, or any other wires looking like they connect to it... Also, it just looks like the wires were cut, not burnt so I think Im looking in the wrong direction for my problem thats occuring.Hello.
From your previous post, how would I back track or examine the Tach to see if there are any flaws?
I dont believe my ignition switch is bad because i am able to turn the car over, start the car for a split second, and also it is relatively new.
....just curious, if i was starting the car in cold weather and didnt give it time to warm up before putting it into gear, could that have caused any damage or issues? or would it naturally just die from being cold? (Trying to think about the last time it had started up perfectly)
After inspection of the spark plugs, I noticed that some of the gaps on some where smaller than others. Also, I didnt see much build-up on the plug itself. It was wasnt black, but it was definitely a dark grey. Im going to try and set the gaps to see if thats where the lack of spark is coming from and go from there...if no...then new set to come...
FYI, first turn of the key today and it started right up!...then died... gotta be the spark...
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