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Discussion Starter #1
Well try to make this short, after putting many new parts,water pump,thermostat,complete gasket kit,intake,carb,coil,plugs wires. now she is running hot enough to steam at the rad cap? this does this while driving too, i first flushed the radiator then removed the thermostat to see if that helped but it did not. i am starting to think my new water pump is bad since this is the only thing i have not checked,but their is no fluid coming out of the "weep" hole. any help would be great,thanks!!!
 

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Some water pumps come with a reverse rotation and some dont, this could be the problem but before uninstalling it check the part description to verify and what your vehicle calls for, if things are correct I would suggest replacing your clutch fan, not the entire assembly just the clutch unless the blades on the fan are cracked bad enough to be affected. Another thing you can check prior to replacing parts, is to make sure all air bubbles are completely out of the system, air pocket will cause the system not to work properly. These few steps should get you cool again. Good Luck :bigthumbsup
 

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another thing that can cause this is if the radiator cap is bad or if the pressure on it is to low. if it doesnt hold enough pressure it will cause the water to boil instead of building proper pressure.
 

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another thing that can cause this is if the radiator cap is bad or if the pressure on it is to low. if it doesnt hold enough pressure it will cause the water to boil instead of building proper pressure.

yeah I forgot about that one, a new vent relief radiator cap is always good to have.
 

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how long have you had the engine before doing all this? Also how is the radiator? Tried flushing it out for a few minutes just to make sure? Took me 3 times of flushing mine, the last being for about 5 - 7 minutes then this glob of crap just came out. YAY, no more overheat, YAY!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I flushed the rad out for about one hour and nothing came out. no clutch fan on the car the fan runs constant. i will try to buy a new rad cap and see if that helps out.
I also had some info passed to me about different years of engine blocks that water pumps will bolt up to but will not flow properly can anybody shed some more info on this or the part about the pump flowing the correct way
 

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Just an idea - it happened to me.

Loose belt - water pump wasn't spinning fast enough!

Also, sorry if I missed it. Did you rebuild the motor and increase the compression?

Could need a a bigger Radiator (I put a larger capacity radiator - added an additional roll.)

Just a thought.
 

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since you ran it without the tstat and it still overheated i would say the water pump is bad/wrong. the only time they leak out the weephole is when the seal goes bad. if the water pump you installed is for a late model 302 {5 liter i] it runs backwards and will not flow. if you got it from a local parts house have them triple check and make sure it for a 289/302 with a v belt not a 302 with a serpentene (sp)belt. Curtis
 

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Discussion Starter #9
thanks for the reponse guy's plan to get it figured out tonight:bigthumbsup
 

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If you removed the heads, did you put the FRONT on the gasket in front?
Thermostat checked good in boiling water?
Water flowing (turbulence) in the radiator with cap off during warm up?
I opted for a MustangSteve aluminum radiator and have had not issues with temp now. I changed out the 17 inch for a 20 inch 2 row. Good deal, well made for 199 dollars on his site.
Ron
Christophers 66 Mustang Restoration and Modification
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well i found the problem! happy it is a easy one to fix, as soon as you apply any throttle to it it closes the bottom radiator shut. so their is no coolant flowing then,picking up the new hose tommorrow!:gringreen
 

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Well i found the problem! happy it is a easy one to fix, as soon as you apply any throttle to it it closes the bottom radiator shut. so their is no coolant flowing then,picking up the new hose tommorrow!:gringreen
So it was missing the spring inside to prevent it from collapsing? Wow wouldnt have guessed that one, but made a note of it, now I know :scratchchin why my boy was looking at the center tube and rubber fitting hose for the radiator, makes sense. :bigthumbsup
 

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My 66 is over heating I just got the heads redone and pressure tested new thermostat the mechanic checked the water pump said it was good , after I run the car and it sits and I go to start it up the temp gauge is in the red and I pop the hood and antifreezes came out the overflow hose ? But once I Start it up the needle goes down , the top of the radiator is very warm and the bottom is not ?? And the bottom hose has a spring in it ! ??? Any advice
 

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My 66 is over heating I just got the heads redone and pressure tested new thermostat the mechanic checked the water pump said it was good , after I run the car and it sits and I go to start it up the temp gauge is in the red and I pop the hood and antifreezes came out the overflow hose ? But once I Start it up the needle goes down , the top of the radiator is very warm and the bottom is not ?? And the bottom hose has a spring in it ! ??? Any advice
Normal for temp to go up when engine is first shut down due to no coolant flowing. Coolant level should be 1" below top of filler. Make sure the radiator pressure cap is good. If temp is ok while running, I would replace the cap. That should get you started narrowing it down.
 
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