Why did the coil burn up? You should check your ignition system completely.
1966 mustang 289 sputtering and poping
Hi I have a 1966 mustang and it starts and idles fine but when I let the clutch out and try to move it sputters and bogs even when warmed up so I have to give it lots of throttle. I have read manny fourms and threads and can figure this out it seems like a fuel probably. But when I am cruising at 45 and give it throttle it sputters and I have to lightly give it throttle or else it pops and will stutter pretty bad.
I have a stock 289 but it has a edlbrock 289 rpm intake and a old holley 600 carborator. Also a crane cams points to electronic ignition box and a motor craft distibutor but a stock coil.
I will check the cap and rotor today and wires the plugs are new they are autolite 45 I gapped them 2 off of spec by accident could this be the problem? I also am suspecting it is the coil I put on a msd blaster coil and it burned right up can someone please help me. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Jason
I have a stock 289 but it has a edlbrock 289 rpm intake and a old holley 600 carborator. Also a crane cams points to electronic ignition box and a motor craft distibutor but a stock coil.
I will check the cap and rotor today and wires the plugs are new they are autolite 45 I gapped them 2 off of spec by accident could this be the problem? I also am suspecting it is the coil I put on a msd blaster coil and it burned right up can someone please help me. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Jason
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I don't know why it burned up Maby because it was for high performance system. I didn't think I should use a stock one for the crane cams box what all should I check? Thankyou
Start from scratch. Stock points and coil. Make sure your timing is set correctly 10-14 degrees at idle 800-1000 rpm. If that takes care of the sputtering you have a baseline. Gap your plugs also. Eliminate one thing at a time.
G
hello
your plugs are ok at .028" - .035".
your coil should not have burned up.
do you have the stock wiring from the switch to the coil?
how long has it been doing this?
did you check the point gap, if so what is it?
sputtering under acceleration is often carb or bad plug wires.
if it seems like it runs out of gas when you step on it, it might be lean carb.
do you have other wires you can try?
your plugs are ok at .028" - .035".
your coil should not have burned up.
do you have the stock wiring from the switch to the coil?
how long has it been doing this?
did you check the point gap, if so what is it?
sputtering under acceleration is often carb or bad plug wires.
if it seems like it runs out of gas when you step on it, it might be lean carb.
do you have other wires you can try?
Recent carburetor rebuild?
If not, maybe you need a new diaphragm in the accelerator pump.
Or maybe all you need is a simple adjustment:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k-Nx5HEzvlY&list=PLt1gplJuIET0K2zSlxZB25qvxezzE8MvH
If not, maybe you need a new diaphragm in the accelerator pump.
Or maybe all you need is a simple adjustment:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k-Nx5HEzvlY&list=PLt1gplJuIET0K2zSlxZB25qvxezzE8MvH
The car has aways done this but I did remove the voltage regulator when I changed to a one wire alternator. Also there are no longer points it is a electronic ignition system. I'm going to check the wires on the coil tonight to make sure their on right. No the carborator was not rebuilt but I plan on rebuilding it soon. Also something I noticed was with the engine running on the right side it feels like there's a fire it's so hot then the left is cool, so now I'm thinking intake gasket would this cause a vacuum leak and cause these symptoms? Also would there be major side affects from driving it with a bad intake gasket thankyou for the fast reply and sorry for any errors I'm typing this on my phone from a bus haha thanks again
G
take a can of flammable brake cleaner with the long nozzle and gently spray it at the carb base and intake where it meets the head. if the rpm goes up you have a leak.
raise the idle a little then take an infra red temp gun and check the exhaust pipes where they meet the heads. any cylinders that are not firing should read below 300 - 400.
raise the idle a little then take an infra red temp gun and check the exhaust pipes where they meet the heads. any cylinders that are not firing should read below 300 - 400.
adjust the timing or the ignition points
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