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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Can anyone tell me what the stock cam specs are for the 289 non K-code motors are? I would asume that the C and A code cams are teh same but not sure. I keep looking but can not find out what they are. Im looking at cam options and wantto compare the differences.

Thank you.
 

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This is the spec for a 66 non hipo
Lobe lift intake is .2303 exhaust .2375
Theoretical valve lift intake.368 exhaust.381
Duration intake 266 exhaust 256
Overlap 30
Intake Events
open BTDC 16 lift.004
closed ABDC 70 lift.006
Exhaust Events
open BBDC 52 lift .002
Closed ATDC 24 lift .005
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
So that duratoin, is that at .50" lift?
 

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Hi, I was wondering to the member who replied with the specs, are C Code and A Code cams both the same specs? I am switching the factory 2V to a factory 4V setup and was told I might need a bigger cam. Could you please specify? Would I need a bigger cam and if so, do A Code factory cams differ from C Codes? Thanks.
 

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Wondering if someone could clear this up. I am looking into rebuilding my engine soon and I need to know whether or not to upgrade the cam. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Wondering if someone could clear this up. I am looking into rebuilding my engine soon and I need to know whether or not to upgrade the cam. Thanks.

I believe they are. After doing alot of research on the two codes, the A code had a 480cfm 4brl and flat top pistons with 10:1 compression where your and my c code had 350cfm 2brl and dished psitons with 9:3 compression. Everything else should be the same. Only the K code had differnt type of cam, carb, exhasut manifolds, some block/internal differance maybe, etc. If you look at the mods in my sig, the carb and manifold were first and it was a big kick in the pants increase. Though had i known what i was doing 10 years agao, i would have went with the 500cfm over the 600cfm. Waaaaayyyy faster down low the with the 600.
 

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So you believe that the cams are the same? I bought a factory 480cfm carb along with a factory 4bbl intake manifold, but I wasn't sure if the cams differed from the factory. You sure that C Code pistons were dished as opposed to flat topped for the A Code? I wasn't under that impression. Thanks though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So you believe that the cams are the same? I bought a factory 480cfm carb along with a factory 4bbl intake manifold, but I wasn't sure if the cams differed from the factory. You sure that C Code pistons were dished as opposed to flat topped for the A Code? I wasn't under that impression. Thanks though.
Well, i have yet to be told otherwise on the cam specs. I do know for a fact that the pistons in the C code are dished from the factory and flat top for the A code. Again, it was dished for an economy style 289 with 9:3.1 compression with 200hp and 282lbs of trq.
 

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I checked the cams out in Bob Mannel's book and it looks like both the A and C code cams were indeed identical in 66.

PN was C3AZ-6250-V, with a UA marking.
Cam specs were:
Lobe lift .2303 Intake, .2375 Exhaust
"Theoretical" Valve lift .368 Intake, .381 Exhaust
Duration 266 Intake, 256 Exhaust

As a comparison the Hi Po cam is listed as having a theoretical valve lift of .477 on both the intake and exhaust valves.

The A code had four eyebrow flattops while the C code had four eyebrow dished pistons. I believe the dish was about 6 cc's.

Just as a suggestion, since I was looking for a nice running street setup just as you are, in my 65 289 build I went with the Comp Cams "Nostalgia Plus" cam in my 289 using their whole kit, Magnum Roller rockers and screw in studs. My heads were stock 1965 lo-po's with 54 cc pockets and 1.78 intakes. Should work nice on the street and be a big improvement over the stock cam. Haven't run it yet because the weather went south, but plan to when the snow melts. I used the Comp Cams "Cam Quest" program which is available for free on their website to pick the cam. You'll need taller valve covers to clear the roller rockers also.

Keep posting.
 

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Thank you very much. That clears that up. You think I will run into any problems with a 4bbl intake and carb if I keep the dished pistons instead of going to flat top? I just wanted more kick out of the 289 and I liked that the factory A code setup that I was able to get saved me big money instead of going with Edelbrock or someone else. Of course, I will send the carb out to get rebuilt, but the old setup is simply easier for me. I will look into that cam package, depending on how much it will run me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thank you very much. That clears that up. You think I will run into any problems with a 4bbl intake and carb if I keep the dished pistons instead of going to flat top? I just wanted more kick out of the 289 and I liked that the factory A code setup that I was able to get saved me big money instead of going with Edelbrock or someone else. Of course, I will send the carb out to get rebuilt, but the old setup is simply easier for me. I will look into that cam package, depending on how much it will run me.
Like i said in my previous post..."If you look at the mods in my sig, the carb and manifold were first and it was a big kick in the pants increase." You will not have any issues running the manifold/carb set up that you want. They are factory parts and will fit that car and run fine.
 

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Actually, with today's pump gas, the dished pistons are the way to go on the street. You won't really realize the potential of that 4 barrel without a cam change though, a mild street cam would really wake it up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Oh yes he will! :yup: My car hasnt even rolled over on 50,000 originalmiles yet and it was about 44k when i swaped out the 2brl for the Performer 4brl. and manifold. Instant night and day difference. He will feel even more with a smaller 470 then with the 600 i have. It will be better down low where you really want it for the street. I recently bought a 500cfm carb to just see what would happen and it did just that, way better throttle response and more power at lower rpms. Hes doing just fine and will be happy with the 4brl upgrade.
 

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Thanks so much for all the info. It's really what I needed. I've been looking into the current setup from Comp Cams: Part# K31-670-4 and # 1442-16 and # 7632-16. What do you think about that? Is the Nostalgia Plus Cam in the kit more aggressive than the stocker? Hydraulic Flat Tappet cam will be fine for the street right? Solid was for the K code right? The C Code cam from the factory was hydraulic right? I know it came with hydraulic lifters, correct? I was looking into some flat pistons, but if you think dished would actually work better, I will keep them. Should I get new dished pistons or just refurbish the old ones? Sorry for the long list of questions, but I could really screw this up and I'd rather not. I'm just not that knowledgeable about the inside of the engine.Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
There are guys who run solid lifter cams on the street. I understand that it takes some "tuning" to get right though. Something about the valve adjustment. Thats where the hydraulic lifters come in. They kind of self adjust? I guess you could say. You have to remember that the K-code cam (or cams to that copy of specs) was designed back then to be a high rev cam. It reved past what the a and c code 289s could.

If you going to be rebuilding this motor, you might as well do it right and replace the pistons too. You never know whattype of shape they are in untill you pull them out. Im curious to know myself what kind of shape mine are in even though they are so low on miles its still 44 years old....

Before you build or pick any cam you need to decide how you are going to drive this car. Daily driver, weekend cruiser, or all out hard core street/strip? The go from there. Also, the more radical you go with a cam the more choppy or lopey the idle will be. So think about if its what you want or not.

Dont worry about questions. Anytime i get a new car or do something im not familiar with i beat the dead horse into the ground. Ifyou search my posts you see ive been asking and researching on head/cam combos since mid last year. I now know what im going to do, but it took awhile before i settled. And for the same reason. I dont want to screw this up and end up costing me more money to redo...(see my rear end issues)
 

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Go with the hydraulic cam. I've run cams with solid lifters and you're constantly adjusting valve lash, just not worth it on a daily driver. I see you are running a C4 tranny. Consider your tranny when selecting a camshaft, as if you get too radical with your camshaft you'll have to replace your torque converter for one with a higher stall rating.
 

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Go with the hydraulic cam. I've run cams with solid lifters and you're constantly adjusting valve lash, just not worth it on a daily driver. I see you are running a C4 tranny. Consider your tranny when selecting a camshaft, as if you get too radical with your camshaft you'll have to replace your torque converter for one with a higher stall rating.
I think you're getting confused. Daniel already has his cam, but I don't. I'm running a T10 four speed. What do you think about this setup: #K31-234-3, #1442-16, #7632-16 from Comp Cams? Possibly looking into K Code manifolds to let it breathe easier. I just have to change out the timing set for pre '72 engines.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Hey dude, i just PM'd you.
 
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