[Lazerpointer92]

Hello there. First off I have a 1966 Mustang coupe with an inline 6 and a 3 speed automatic transmission and using it as my daily driver atm that i am planning on putting this engine in. I bought a 1972 351C 2v engine (original bore) and am starting from ground up. Also, I went ahead and bought 4v heads(recently rebuilt) and a 750 holly carb for 300 bucks. I would like this to be a street car and make plenty of power with a max compression from 10:1 so i can still use pump gas. Any ideas on what cam I should use don't want to go too ridiculous but still more on the crazy side? thinking I might go with a performer intake with a 1" riser. Maybe shave the heads? Any ideas on anything would be appreciated. thanks.

 

[93.mustang]

arent the parts kind of limited on 351c idk i might be wrong.
maybe a comp cam magnum
or a lunati cam

 

[Instinx]

for the street I would of stuck with the 2v heads, better combustion chamber and flow at lower rpm, 4v is for track.

Start with the basics, have the block refreshed and clean up the cylinder walls, buy forged pistons from a company, tell them what heads ur running with the chamber volume cc's to match it to a compression ratio your looking for, I would say 9:1 maybe 9.25:1 or in the range for whatever gas rating your useing.

Get a custom/tech support on a reputable company making cam's, tell them everything they ask like compression ratio, powerband street use ext, I suggest using roller rockers 1.6, most of the time(make sure it allows clearance from valve to piston top)

Get a aluminum intake thats dual plane, again for streetability.

Theres abit of info that should be researched on useing oil restrictors and certain modifications while building the 351c up, find the answers.

I have a 351c in my 68, its a badass car, now I couldnt tell ya what was done to it because I havent rebuilt it myself, I bought the car with it.
But with a stock 2v intake/heads a 870 carb, 4 speed/4.11 locker rear it screams plenty second gear dumping the clutch pulls 2 ft wheelstand, it does run on regular gas aswell.

Dont forget, before u let any power in this car hit the ground u need to upgrade your transmission's components/suspension/rear ext to handle teh added weight and power, those I6 were inferior machines

 

[cindys_sn95]

sounds like a fun project D. i thought you might get some decent info over here, untill i read this stupid SH!T above! this idiot has no clue what he is spouting! really, 2 foot wheelstands. D, if you want some good info go to the 385 forums. all cleveland guys.

 

[93.mustang]

im just wondering i never really see to many parts for 351c i usually see more parts for 351w just want to know why

 

[Pig Muffin]

sounds like a fun project D. i thought you might get some decent info over here, untill i read this stupid SH!T above! this idiot has no clue what he is spouting! really, 2 foot wheelstands. D, if you want some good info go to the 385 forums. all cleveland guys.

thats some big time traction right there.

 

[Pig Muffin]

that is some megalithic traction now that i think about it.

 

[Instinx]

sounds like a fun project D. i thought you might get some decent info over here, untill i read this stupid SH!T above! this idiot has no clue what he is spouting! really, 2 foot wheelstands. D, if you want some good info go to the 385 forums. all cleveland guys.

why so much anger in your post?

Nothing I said was wrong, and I gave my advice.

 

[cindys_sn95]

why so much anger in your post?

Nothing I said was wrong, and I gave my advice.

2 foot wheelstands! that is wrong on soooo manys levels.

 

[Instinx]

I'd make a video but its the middle of winter......

 

[rodbender]

I'd like to see that! Anyway back to the topic. There's alot of Cleveland stuff out there and I believe it's the 335 forums. The 385 would put you in the 429/460 forums. Best of luck. I'm looking forward to my 4bbl Cleveland build too. One thing to note: While the 2V heads are said to be better, they spark knock like a ***** in my 400. Boo! Run your big heads!:bigthumbsup

 

[cindys_sn95]

you're right Dan. 335 forums. i was kinda freaked out by the wheelstands!

 

[ratpowered]

Do some research as recommended by the previous posters, and I know that you will find that the Clevelands, with the 4V heads have the potential to make gobs of power. As an old geezer, I can remember back in the 70's how all the car mags had lots of articles that raved about how the Cleveland heads loved a big cam, with their comparitively large intake ports, etc. It seems a little odd to me that the Windsor is king now days. Not to knock the Windsor by any means, but back in the day, the Cleveland was the 351 that was considered the performance version. If someone said they had a 351, the question was always "Windsor or Cleveland?", and the "correct" answer was to be able to say "Cleveland." Perhaps perceptions changed somewhat due to the fact that the Cleveland was only installed for a few years, and there are so many aftermarket parts now for Windsors. Again, not knocking the Windsor, but just want to encourage the OP that he certainly has the foundation for a fine motor if he does his research, and selects parts wisely.:bigthumbsup

 

[dodgestang]

Hello there. First off I have a 1966 Mustang coupe with an inline 6 and a 3 speed automatic transmission and using it as my daily driver atm that i am planning on putting this engine in. I bought a 1972 351C 2v engine (original bore) and am starting from ground up. Also, I went ahead and bought 4v heads(recently rebuilt) and a 750 holly carb for 300 bucks. I would like this to be a street car and make plenty of power with a max compression from 10:1 so i can still use pump gas. Any ideas on what cam I should use don't want to go too ridiculous but still more on the crazy side? thinking I might go with a performer intake with a 1" riser. Maybe shave the heads? Any ideas on anything would be appreciated. thanks.

Going to be a fun car. Here is my recommendations.

1. If you have to rebuild the bottom end, make it a 393 or 408. This will allow you to make better use of the 4v heads. Don't listen to people who say use the 2v....the 4v will work just fine for you.
2. Make sure you put screw in studs in the 4v heads and 1 peice valves. Port the exhaust side but not the intake side
3. To put the motor in the car is a little tricky....you need to source and use early 65 3 piece motor mounts and Ford power train headers and you can plop it right into the engine bay. Other combinations require shock tower work unfortunately.
4. Ditch the performer intake it is nothing more than a light weight stock intake. The weiand xcelerator dual plane intake with a small phenolic spacer and a drop base air cleaner fits under the stock hood. If you want to move to an air gap design (like the strip terminator ) you will need to add a scoop hood for clearance.
5. I suggest adding additional bracing to the car, front t-boxes and sub frame bars.
6. Bigger brakes
8. It is a very tight fit so a torque strap is also highly recommended. I made mine with an eye bolt and turn buckle and a small klevus (?spell?)
7. Traction device....the sidest you can realistically fit IME is a 255 tire in the rear for street use.
8. Since it is originally an I6 car you will need v8 spindles/suspension/steering components, new rear, new trans, etc....but I assume you know that already.

 

[tommay11]

The book "How to Build Max Performance Ford V-8s on a Budget" include a 351 Cleveland "Budget build" with dyno test.

It was bored .030 over, recondition rods w/ ARP bolts, .010 undersize crankshaft, forged-alum flat top pistons with two valve reliefs and a custom cam with .560 intake, .585 exhaust lift and duration was 232 intake and 236 exhaust. It has the Edlebrock performer 2V intake manifold and Holley 750, Hedman headers and MSD ignition.

Also with screw in studs and push rod guide plates. Now this has STOCK rods, STOCK crank, STOCK (with blueprint) oil pump, and made 9.25:1 compression with the STOCK un-ported 2V heads at 88 cc combustion chambers.

The result was LOADS of low-end torque- 373 @ 2500 RPM, so it would be fun as all hell to drive on the street. Max HP was 405 at 600 RPM (The stock Cleveland crank and rods can and will take this no problem) and max torque was 420 @ 5000 RPM. This is a very streetable and budget minded build. You wouldn't need to beef up your tans or put in a high torque converter that takes away from street-ability.

For mine, I had a block that had been bored .060 over and didn't want to sleeve it. Because it was so thin I also didnt want to push it to far so did a milder build. Stock 2V heads, Summit 5200 cam, Edlebrock intake and Summit 600 carb and full exhaust. I love driving it around, great throttle response and very torque-y in the low to mid range. This gives me a very strong pull even when cruising at 65 mph and accelerating to say 75 mph. Considering my weight and 1/4 mile ETs, I'm making somewhere around 320-330 Horse power.

I love driving my car, but would have done the 405 HP build if the block hadn't been bored out so far, although I do plan on sleeving it for the build down the road.

It's really up to you and what you want out of it, but as a rule of thumb, I've always stuck with the idea that a mid-to low 13 second 1/4 mile build is as far as you can go -on a budget anyways and naturally aspirated- without sacrificing to much in the way of street-ability.

 

[tommay11]

Dont forget, before u let any power in this car hit the ground u need to upgrade your transmission's components/suspension/rear ext to handle teh added weight and power, those I6 were inferior machines

This is true to, you're probably going to need to beef up the suspension to take this. And a C6 or FMX trans would be best. Also, I assume you have the 8 inch rear end? Now, somehow my brother has managed to keep his 8 in going even with 4.11 gears and a Detroit locker and running 12.3s, but I personally would throw it out for a 9 inch rear end right away.

 

[silver69]

+1 to dodgestang, the boy knows his stuff, listen to him. I went roller cam on my build, mild .556" because I wanted a smooth idle. To do over I would do as he said and go more aggressive roller cam, 408 stroke and aussie 3v alum heads. good luck with your build.

 

[Pig Muffin]

The book "How to Build Max Performance Ford V-8s on a Budget" include a 351 Cleveland "Budget build" with dyno test.

It was bored .030 over, recondition rods w/ ARP bolts, .010 undersize crankshaft, forged-alum flat top pistons with two valve reliefs and a custom cam with .560 intake, .585 exhaust lift and duration was 232 intake and 236 exhaust. It has the Edlebrock performer 2V intake manifold and Holley 750, Hedman headers and MSD ignition.

Also with screw in studs and push rod guide plates. Now this has STOCK rods, STOCK crank, STOCK (with blueprint) oil pump, and made 9.25:1 compression with the STOCK un-ported 2V heads at 88 cc combustion chambers.

The result was LOADS of low-end torque- 373 @ 2500 RPM, so it would be fun as all hell to drive on the street. Max HP was 405 at 600 RPM (The stock Cleveland crank and rods can and will take this no problem) and max torque was 420 @ 5000 RPM. This is a very streetable and budget minded build. You wouldn't need to beef up your tans or put in a high torque converter that takes away from street-ability.

god dammit, a cleveland with a low idle, is like 55 more hp than mine WOT all the way through the power band

 

[RF Mustang]

Pigster, I think he just had a typo and meant 6,000 RPM and not 600.

Being a 351C fanatic and old school guy myself, I tend to lean towards the 351C as my engine of choice for a SBF. Nothing at all against the 351W but the HP potential of a 351C (when built properly) is very impressive. The 335 forum is a great place to become further informed about 351C's

The recent 69 Mach project bought as my next endevor has a 351W in it. I intend to build one of the (3) 351C sitting in my garage for this car once restoration is near completion. (3+ years ?)

 

[Pig Muffin]

:nono: RF i know what I am seeing!!!!!!!!!! That is amazing low end hp. It has 400hp basically sitting still!