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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi this is my first post here I have a 1966 mustang gt and this all began when I finally got my car on the road. My fist problem was the driverside caliper locked up so I bought a new one then I was driving to school and the passenger side caliper locked up I was able to get it home now after replaceing it I drove about 30 miles fine then the next morning I tried to drive to school and I noticed the brakes draging so I hammerd down and tried to get to the parking lot but I had to stop and the car woulent move so a tow truck came and dragged it into the lot after I put out a fire on the dust boots on the caliper and all 4 tires were locked up so I am currently replaceing the mc with a dual bowl and the proportioning valve, disterbution block front lines and hoses if the caliper had a fire going is it still use able and is there anything else I should replace besides the pads and warped rotors any help would be greatly appreciated
 

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Welcome to the site!! I moved your thread for a better response.
 

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You need to give us some more info on the brakes. Who installed them? When? What was changed in addition to the items at the wheels? Was the old single bowl MC used? Were the back brakes gone thru and working good?

It sounds like someone slapped on a pair of disc spindles from the junk yard and off you went. Am I wrong? Posting some photos would help us understand better.
 

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I'm surprised Driveway got all the way through that post without complaining. Wow, that's hardly readable dude. Maybe get back to us after 3rd period English.
 

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Chances are, the calipers are damaged also, especially the rubber seals, so you may have to replace the dust boots and seals, if they are rebuildable. Clean and repack the front wheel bearings. And what was burning the dust boots? Good Luck.
 

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Brake hoses may be obstructed and lines need to be inspected to ensure there are no obstructions
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Sorry for the late reply I've been busy with then car no I didn't get junk yard parts to covert to disk brakes it was all original to the car mc, calipers proportioning valve and it looked like the lines were to I just got done rebuilding the calipers it was easy yes the dust boots were on fire and the ruber seals on the inside were fine but I replaced them any way I have all new lines run with a new dual bowl mc and a new ssbc proportioning valve and a new distribution block and new hoses now I am just waiting for the rotors to get here and I was planning on getting new wheel bearings but I was thinking why replace American made parts with Chinese parts so I will just clean and repack like suggested THE PROBLEM WAS the master cylinder was verry rust where the pushrod goes looked like it was on the bottom of the ocean so now all is good and thank you all for the answers and information and the calipers I had gotten a new one from eBay centric brand and after takeing apart am verry satisfied new pistons and honed bores I however bought a rebuilt one from National auto and when I took it apart the pistons were old and pited and the bores are destroyed and it wasn't from the heat I don't know the brand of it
 

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Please, it is very hard to follow your long rambling posts.

Lets hope all your new parts gets you safely on the road again.
 

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Brake Hoses

Jason,
Had a similar problem on my 65. Burned up the brake pads and had to resurface the rotor. I pulled all my brake hoses and found they were virtually plugged. The master cylinder put enough pressure in the lines for the brakes to clamp, but the plugged hose wouldn't allow the pressure to release and let the caliper open, thus the stuck brake. Ran air through the old hoses and found back pressure of 25 psi. Bought new hoses and ran the same test, <5 psi. Installed the new hoses and brakes release properly. Found it very difficult to remove the line connections after almost 50 years of corrosion. Patience and a big wrench finally did the job.
Good Luck,
Clay
 
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