[tedsxb]

Okay, I really would appreciate those who have part number knowledge to try and ID my carb so I can purchase the right rebuild kit. Its on a 66 mustang. It seems to be the original autolite carb, and it has the following stamped on the carb itself:

D0PF-9510-U
LIST-4548-S
064


The metal tag says:
D0PF U
B 0FD

Thank you very much

 

[Ivy66GT]

That isn't an original carb for a '66. 'D0' would tell me 1970 something. A '66 would have a carb number starting with something like 'C6' or maybe the previous year's 'C5'.

Is it a 2-barrel?

 

[Print Dad]

Hello tedsxb,
It seems this is a Ford replacement carb.

I found 2 links

D0PF-U
This shows pictures

The second is:
Ford 4160 Holley Carburetor Uses & Numbers - Crazy 4 Cars

It says the carb is a 4V 450cfm Metering 6343


I know this is not the answers you need but it is a start.
So you have a 450 Holley carb....Hope this helps a bit........Jim

 

[tedsxb]

Hello tedsxb,
It seems this is a Ford replacement carb.

I found 2 links

D0PF-U
This shows pictures

The second is:
Ford 4160 Holley Carburetor Uses & Numbers - Crazy 4 Cars

It says the carb is a 4V 450cfm Metering 6343


I know this is not the answers you need but it is a start.
So you have a 450 Holley carb....Hope this helps a bit........Jim

I think you're on to something here because 6343 is stamped onto the air horn. So, is this a factory carb worth using?

 

[Print Dad]

Hello tedsxb,
I think the carb is probably the original so to answer your question you need to determine.
1. - Areyou trying to keep the car stock for shows etc.
2. - Have you the ability to rebuild? It's not too hard but the directions with the kits kinda stink.

If you are just trying to get the car to run....you may consider replacing the carb with a little larger one.
Summit makes a carb that looks like a Holley for around $250.00.
I am considering getting one myself.
The 600cfm would be fine for your car. It has clea sight bowls, adjustable floats and many good features.

DO NOT throw out you carb however. Keep it for the future if you decide to sell the car or turn it into a show car. You could even try the rebuild but the kit will run you about $40.00,

I think if you look at the "Holley" web site you may get a better idea of cost and they have some info on procedure.

I'm on so post back what you think.......Jim

 

[tedsxb]

Well, I want to keep this carb because the car is a all original rust free car with the original 289 and manual trans. Also, I want to keep the price low, so Id rather rebuild it. I tried to find a kit for it online and noone seems to have it.

 

[Ivy66GT]

The picture in the link given is NOT anything close to what an original carb would have been on a '66. It has all kinds of extra doo-dads that came with later emission controls. Will it work on a '66 Mustang - yes probably if the jets are correct. So will about a 1000 other carbs.

With a 1970 part number there is no way it is original to the car. You may want to keep the carb but don't fool yourself into thinking it was original. EVERY original 4-bbl carb on a '66 Mustang 289 had a part number of 'C6ZF-?". For a manual car the ? would have been an A usually, or a D if for California, and a C if it were a HiPo.

Holley and Ford carbs look a lot alike since Holley bought the rights to build them from Ford. I am not even sure you have an Autolite 4300 which is a later version ('67 or newer) than the 4100 used in '66. Go to NAPA and ask for a 1970 rebuild kit for a 4-bbl. Like for the 4100, I expect there is only one kit (or at most two) and they are about $25.

Here is a picture of what a '66 carb would look like although this is supposedly actually a '65.

http://www.mustangtek.com/4100/C5ZF-E.html

The nut on the center bolt is incorrect, but otherwise its almost the correct.

 

[rcchalmers]

I went around a lot trying to find a rebuilt carb for my 67 6cyl. Finally picked up a Champion/TOMCO rebuild from a local Carquest store. The old Autolite bodies are difficult to find i guess. Runs great out of the box.

I would have rebuilt my old one, but the body was cracked. after all was said and done, the factory rebuild was a good deal (<$200) compared to DIY or high end new. This car is going to be a run-around-close-to-original car, so was not worried about peak performance.

Found this link to cross over rebuild kits to carb numbers
http://www.tomco-inc.com/Catalog/carb_oem.pdf

Found these lists of carb part numbers crossed to vehicle make and type
http://www.championparts.com/carburetor_applications.pdf
http://www.championparts.com/tomco_app.pdf

Many other useful links here
http://www.championparts.com/cpi_003.htm

There is also an outfit in Florida who would rebuild yours for a reasonable fee. A few Google clicks will get you there.

Hope this helps.

 

[Print Dad]

Well, I want to keep this carb because the car is a all original rust free car with the original 289 and manual trans. Also, I want to keep the price low, so Id rather rebuild it. I tried to find a kit for it online and noone seems to have it.

Hello tedsxb,
My thoughts are:
1. - Ivy66GT seems far more knowledgable than I in regards to the original carb.
2. - I think you do have a Ford replacement car that is a 4160 series four barrel.
This carb has just the front metering block. Does your carb look like the original picture I posted with the accelerator pump on the bottom or does it have the accelerator pump on the front of the bowl?

I would go to a parts store and buy a rebuild kit for a 4160 Holley.

When you rebuild the most important pieces in my opinion are the gaskets,
accelerator pump, power valve, gaskets. These will all come with a rebuild kit.
The kit covers 4150 and 4160 series.
Another thought is to contact "Holley and give them the numbers and let them tell you what to get.

I think we have learned that this is not the original carb but rather a replacement that I think was made by Ford but looks like a Holley.

I learned a bit on this and I should point out I am just an old back-yard mechanic.
Got nothing else sorry.....Jim