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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,

I have an automatic 289 with a 2 barrel carb on the car. The carb is is pretty bad shape now and I'm thinking about going with an aftermarket carb and was wondering if folks here have any recommendations?

The car is a daily driver (not a high performance or race car) and I highly prefer not to change out the original intake manifold. I'd like to keep it mostly stock, but I would not mind an aftermarket carb, since the one I have is a rebuilt (i.e. not the original one).

I've had good experience with Edelbrocks in the past on a mopar classic- easy to install and tune. What would you recommend?
 

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hi there,

you can buy a rebuilt 2v autolite carb, but its gonna cost you close to $500. also, having yours rebuilt will likely cost equal to or more than a new aftermarket carb.

i've heard that alot of people don't like holley and prefer edelbrock, and alot of people who have switched from holley to edelbrock and liked the results. personally, i prefer edelbrock as well. the only problem is that im pretty sure all of their carbs are 4v. since you aren't interested in changing out the intake manifold, i believe they sell a conversion plate that allows you to use a 4v carb on a 2v manifold? or it might be the other way around.

as far as size, if your not interested in performance and more interested in gas mileage, aim for the low end cfm range, like 500. the higher the cfm, the more air/gas you'll be sucking in.
 

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If you do decide to go 4V, I have heard good things about this carb:

Summit Racing SUM-M08600VS - Summit Racing Street & Strip® Carburetors - Overview - SummitRacing.com

It is basically a modern 4100, though I have also read that it is an updated version of an old Holley from way back when that was discontinued long ago. People seem to really like this carb. I have an original 4100 that is 1.12 (600cfm) I planned on installing on my car when I do an intake swap one day, but I might just go with this one instead. Haven't decided.

If you stay with the 2V, perhaps you can find a larger cfm carb aftermarket?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hmmm. I'm starting to wonder if changing out the intake manifold is the way to go. It starts to become a bigger project than I'd like to take on, but it seems kinda odd to buy a good 4bbl carb but adapt it to a 2bbl setup. And, I couldn't find any good 2bbl aftermarket alternatives.

I do like the thought of having more power (i.e. I'm not worried about gas mileage) since this car is not my commute car.

The engine is all original and has never been rebuilt with roughly 150k miles on it. Hence my hesitation to replace any of its components. The carb is the only piece that has been rebuilt over the years.

If you were in my shoes with a pretty much all original engine, what would you do?

hi there,

you can buy a rebuilt 2v autolite carb, but its gonna cost you close to $500. also, having yours rebuilt will likely cost equal to or more than a new aftermarket carb.

i've heard that alot of people don't like holley and prefer edelbrock, and alot of people who have switched from holley to edelbrock and liked the results. personally, i prefer edelbrock as well. the only problem is that im pretty sure all of their carbs are 4v. since you aren't interested in changing out the intake manifold, i believe they sell a conversion plate that allows you to use a 4v carb on a 2v manifold? or it might be the other way around.

as far as size, if your not interested in performance and more interested in gas mileage, aim for the low end cfm range, like 500. the higher the cfm, the more air/gas you'll be sucking in.
 

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Hmmm. I'm starting to wonder if changing out the intake manifold is the way to go. It starts to become a bigger project than I'd like to take on, but it seems kinda odd to buy a good 4bbl carb but adapt it to a 2bbl setup. And, I couldn't find any good 2bbl aftermarket alternatives.

I do like the thought of having more power (i.e. I'm not worried about gas mileage) since this car is not my commute car.

The engine is all original and has never been rebuilt with roughly 150k miles on it. Hence my hesitation to replace any of its components. The carb is the only piece that has been rebuilt over the years.

If you were in my shoes with a pretty much all original engine, what would you do?
I would do it. I did the same thing a while back, 289 Performer intake and a 500 cfm edelbrock carb. Best thing for it, along with the electronic ignition. It really helped all around. It is really quite easy and there are a lot of really good people here to help you (I would like to think that I am one of them). So I say go for it, and if you feel like your stuck, put your tools down and ask.
 

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Putting on a new carb requires pulling the engine.

If you're pulling the intake, might as well drop in a new distributor while you're at it.........

And since that distro's drive shaft for the oil pump just fell in the pan, good time to put on a new oil pan and gasket.........

Hey, you got the pan off, a few bucks more for a new oil pump, what the hell.........

As long as we're bolting a pretty pan to an ugly old block, may as well repaint the engine as well, since the valve covers are off too..............

And if you're gonna paint the engine, shoot, great time to detail the engine bay! Hard to do with the engine in the car, may as well pull that sucker..............

Seriously, this is the thought process I go through when thinking about something like swapping up to a 4V. Ask me about the time a few rust bubbles on the fender led to new floorpans!

Michael
 

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go with a rebuilt 2100 autolite alot of places offer them for less than whats stated above. Im sure you can get one rebuilt for 250 or less, ebay is a good place to start
 

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I had that same idea, but at the end of the day you are still paying almost the same amount of money for and old new carb. Spend the extra 50 bucks and get something new. If the car is a daily driver then I assume it runs well. So you don't have to worry about the new dizzy and pump, shaft, oil pan and painting. All the parts you remove will go back on, with the exception of some gaskets and the carb (and if you decide the intake too).
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks all for the input and I am leaning towards a rebuilt Autolite carb. Since the car is all original (I know b/c my family is the original owner) I prefer to leave the original engine parts on as much as possible until they need replacement.

The car has had minimal driving (once per month) over the years and I forgot to mention that the carb is giving me lots of trouble. The car is hard to start (choke gets stuck), stalls at stop lights, runs rough, and the carb leaks fuel down the side The timing, plugs, and ignition are good, so I am 99% sure it is the carb that is causing the headaches. The carb hasn't been rebuilt in 20-25 years, so it has done its duty.

I've rebuilt the suspension, brakes, transmission, and all that's needed to get it back on the streets is little under the hood work.

Again, I do appreciate everyone's insights and I'll keep you posted.
 

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Just rebuild your carb for less than $30. It's not rocket science. If you can use a screwdriver and able to read it's probably the easiest carb ever to rebuild. Guarantee it's full of trash and when was the last time you changed the screw in filter.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Putting on a new carb requires pulling the engine.

If you're pulling the intake, might as well drop in a new distributor while you're at it.........

And since that distro's drive shaft for the oil pump just fell in the pan, good time to put on a new oil pan and gasket.........

Hey, you got the pan off, a few bucks more for a new oil pump, what the hell.........

As long as we're bolting a pretty pan to an ugly old block, may as well repaint the engine as well, since the valve covers are off too..............

And if you're gonna paint the engine, shoot, great time to detail the engine bay! Hard to do with the engine in the car, may as well pull that sucker..............

Seriously, this is the thought process I go through when thinking about something like swapping up to a 4V. Ask me about the time a few rust bubbles on the fender led to new floorpans!

Michael
Unfortunately, I know all too well what you mean! My other classic is an ebody convertible and when I bought I thought it only needed only a "few more upgrades" to be just right. Several grand later, I'm still not done.:winks
 

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Just rebuild your 2100, It is probably one of the simplest, durable carburetors ever made. It is even a shame that you are having trouble with it.

I have one on my '65 289 convertible. I have owned the car since 1980 and have only put, maybe, 2000 miles on it. It is a garage queen and just sits there. The last year it has gotten more use but prior to that it was over three years that I did not even run it. I have occasionally put fuel stabilizer in it. For all I know, it has never even been rebuilt.

Once I get the float bowl filled back up, it rips right off. I have had to oil down the choke linkage so that it would come off after warmup but that is it.
 

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Putting on a new carb requires pulling the engine.
At first I thought you might be on crack if you think that putting a carb on requires pulling the motor... Then i read the rest of it. Its pretty true. One little repair leads to another and before you know it, you have a mess of parts and are on the way to restoring your car. Not to say that one cant just swap an intake and carb, drink a beer and call it a day, but I always seem to say, "Well, as long as I have that dissassembled, I should replace that as well...."
 

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Boomyal is right. Unless the body is cracked, you can rebuild a 2100 in an afternoon for around $100 in parts and cleaning supplies, even if you need a new float. The Shop Manual walks you right through it.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
That's another good suggestion. I plan to take it off, clean it all out and see how bad it is inside. Any suggestions on a good rebuilt kit? I went thru 2 fuel pumps from AutoZone in quick order, so I'm trying to stay clear of the cheap junk from china.

Just rebuild your 2100, It is probably one of the simplest, durable carburetors ever made. It is even a shame that you are having trouble with it.

I have one on my '65 289 convertible. I have owned the car since 1980 and have only put, maybe, 2000 miles on it. It is a garage queen and just sits there. The last year it has gotten more use but prior to that it was over three years that I did not even run it. I have occasionally put fuel stabilizer in it. For all I know, it has never even been rebuilt.

Once I get the float bowl filled back up, it rips right off. I have had to oil down the choke linkage so that it would come off after warmup but that is it.
 

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go with motorcraft CT-499D carb rebuilt kit, get a new float while ur at it
 
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