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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm replacing a fuel sending unit on my 1966 coupe and would like something of higher quality than the repro I'm replacing. Without spending too much. I'm not even 100% this will fix my leak, but I've gone through 3 gaskets with no luck and the electrical connection can be spun, seems like this may be where my leak is originating.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks, Can anyone suggest one they've had luck with or atleast where they bought one that they've had luck with. thanks again.
 

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The 'real' Ford senders are becoming scarce and pricey if there are any of them left. I know Virginia Mustang sold their last ones. If they are still out there they have a 3/8" pipe which was not original before '67 I think it was. I bought the 5/16" inlet, brass float, stainless steel repro from VCM recently. Turns out it was a Scott Drake which doesn't always excite me favorably. Its biggest problem was that the float adjustment was off about 6 gallons so I had to drain the tank, take it out, adjust, fiddle, etc. I finally got it so it reads reasonably well. I had no problems getting it to seal (multiple times) which has been your recent problem. If the post with the electrical connection turns, I am nearly certain that is the problem with the one you now have.

The SD unit looked much like the original Ford except they bent the inlet tube at the wrong angle so the hose almost won't go on the thing!! There are minor dimensional differences but nothing drastic. The rheostat winding is not exactly like the originals either. Instead of a logarithmic wind it is a cheaper, two-section piecewise linear approximation to that. If you get it adjusted correctly its fairly similar to the original unit although not exact. However, I don't know that the winding in a recent 'Ford' unit is exactly like the originals either. I know that starting sometime like in the 80s the Ford oil pressure sender design was changed so that, even though they might have said Ford on them, the senders are not like the originals but made to a cheaper design.

I have mentioned it previously, but one thing I have found wrong with the current repro gas tank parts is that the repro locking rings are not designed as original and do NOT lock the sender tightly enough against the rubber seal. I threw away the repro lock ring with my new tank and reused the old one. The sender should be forced down tightly, metal-to-metal against the tank, or else the locking ring isn't working as original. They are meant to install and be removed using a hammer to rotate the ring.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
That's interesting because I posted a previous question about how much I should turn lock ring and recieved an answer of until it stops. Well with the repro ring i've got, I can completely spin, with the help of a hammer and screwdriver of course. Perhaps it's the ring which isn't appplying enough pressure. Where could I found an FORD ring?
 

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You do turn the holddown ring until it stops - I do it with a brass drift and a hammer. There are ears on the ring that won't let it go too far.

If you don't have a original Ford locking ring you would have to get one from a car being parted out. Some repos might be OK? My repro, Made in Canada tank was gorgeous and identical to the original. The sender lock ring that came with it was NOT. It had stop ears on it so wouldn't spin, but it wasn't as thick as the original ring and didn't clamp the sender as tightly to the tank.
 
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