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1966 Mustang - Engine Won't Start

2663 Views 8 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  Dark

I own a 66 Mustang, I6 auto C-4.

I recently replaced the alternator, ignition switch, starter, and starter solenoid. Everytime I try and start the car, the starter motor stays stuck to the point where it sounds like the car is at full throttle without even depressing the accelerator.

I disconnected the throttle linkage and even bypassed the solenoid with a screwdriver, but the starter still stays stuck(the speed at which it's turning sounds like the engine at full throttle). I had a mechanic show me this trick and he was able to get it started a while back, however recently the car either cranks aimlessly or the starter catches, there's no in between.

Took the starter to get checked and it passed. I'm completely out of ideas and paranoid about turning the car on given the fact how many times the damn starter has stayed stuck.

Any help would be appreciated. At the end of my wits here. The car has been sitting for six months
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Okay, here's my 2 cts. First off, once you release the ignition key from the START position, the power to the S terminal on the solonoid should be gone, which in turn releases the solonoid, so I would try to start the car with it in park, hood open, and if it stays cranking, then pull the wire off the S terminal on the solonoid, and it should stop cranking (if it does, then you either have the wires switched, or have something providing power to that wire during the run position, so I would double check your wires on the ignition switch to make sure you do not have one on the RUN terminal that should be on the START terminal), if it still continues to crank, then take something plastic like the handle on a screwdriver and tap the solonoid and see if it releases, if it releases, then it is the solonoid sticking, buy a better quality one. In addition, the I terminal on the solonoid is a direct connection to the ignition coil + terminal, this is to supply battery voltage to the coil during cranking (START position on the ignition switch), when the ignition switch is in the RUN position, then the coil gets power through a pink resistor wire which drops the voltage to around 6 volts to the coil with the points closed, this prolongs the life of the points and keeps from overheating the coil. A good practice, when replacing electrical parts, is to make sure it is working correctly, before you replace the next one, because if you make a mistake, it will be harder to find, if you replaced several things at a time. Post your results. Good Luck.
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I think you missed some of the points in my earlier post, please reread it and try the things I said, they will determine where your fault is, as you have to determine, whether it is starter drive sticking, solonoid sticking, ignition switch problem, wiring problem, at present you have too many possibilities, and have to narrow it down. My 2 cts. From an old mechanic. Good Luck.
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