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Lets start of with this; I am 17 and have not had my 1966 mustang straight 6, manual 3 speed, coupe long.
The person i bought it from did not inform me on all these problems I'm finding, so I am kind of stressing over this and need some help and opinions.

The guy that had my car before me put the car in reverse with the door open and hit a pole (what an idiot:nono:), it bent the hinge, dented the door right under the mirror, and then right where the door and quarter panel meet is now bent 2 places and is rubbing.
I was told by him it should be 200 to get fixed but now im finding it will be 500-800 easy.
Is that seeming a bit high or was his 200 a bit low?

Also water is leaking into my car...
I think it might be under the quarter panels, Some believe it is from some place around where the windshield is connected?? and then others think it is where the vent is (but its still leaking when i have the cover over the vent and its dry in there so i dont believe it is the vent)
It is running down the sidewalls on both sides about 6-10 inches in from where the door is.

The interior is slowly coming apart from the water so im about to get new carpet, but not sure if there is anything i need to put down before the carpet.
also about to replace my plain door panels and want to put pony ones but im not sure if i can put pony ones or if i have to go with what i previously had.


Last but not least i am wanting to get my car painted.
I want to get a hood scoop to put on my car before i get it painted but not sure where or what to get? and if i get it can i put it on there to be functional without getting a whole new hood or will it only be for looks? Im wanting a twin scoop like they have on some 1967's but honestly any scoop is fine with me.
I want flat (matte) black, but i was told that was not a good idea.
So i am either still considering that or looking for a new color to paint and I am thinking either Black with silver stripes or silver with black stripes.
It is blue now but i want a darker color.
I dont want it to look like an old man car i want it to be more of a restomod.

Thanks to anyone who can help me whatsoever!:D
 

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Hi CBowman!

The pony's are great cars and the 6's are great engines! With regards to your ?'s....

I was told by him it should be 200 to get fixed but now im finding it will be 500-800 easy. Is that seeming a bit high or was his 200 a bit low?

In all reality, it's difficult to have a body repair shop work on anything for under $1k....so his estimate was, well, you know, ummm, kinda off.

Also water is leaking into my car...

When dealing with cars this old, it can be leaking through a variety of places...a few of the more common areas are block drains at the cowl & rusted out cowl vents (dash/firewall area), window/door gaskets (in addition to obvious visual cracks/openings, take a piece of paper, about 3-4" wide, close the door with the paper inside the seal, then pull slowly the paper....do this across the entire length of the seal...the tension should be the same, if you get a loose spot, ...you have probably found it. Additionally windshield & rear window gaskets rotting or improperly installed.

I'm about to get new carpet, but not sure if there is anything i need to put down before the carpet.

Yes, there is a mat/undermat that most every carpet mfg can provide for you.

also about to replace my plain door panels and want to put pony ones but im not sure if i can put pony ones or if i have to go with what i previously had

As far as fitment, they are all the same....you can do whatever you would like

I want to get a hood scoop to put on my car before i get it painted but not sure where or what to get?

There are several suppliers, I prefer metal but there are some excellent platsi units available as well. Companies like Summit Racing, Jegs, JC Whitney all sell them. IMHO, I would 1st identify who is going to paint the car and then let them purchase & install the unit....they will know what company produces the "better fitting & finish ones" likely saving you a few $'s in the long run.


If i get it can i put it on there to be functional without getting a whole new hood or will it only be for looks?

For a driver, a functional unit is not a good idea......really almost too easy to wet down (mud, etc) into the engine compartment & causing issues that you don't need. In terms of HP gains, for street use, little to none with or without.

I want flat (matte) black, but i was told that was not a good idea.

In terms of durability, it's all the same just like any other paint. In terms of color....the beauty is in the "eye of the beholder"...I personally prefer otherwise but I have seen many done in the flat finish that are very good looking!
 

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Mine was leaking from the top drivers side of windshield gasket. The windshield & gasket are original in my '66. There was a spot about 1/2" missing out of the gasket....i filled it with some black adhesive and no leaks again. simple fix.

Try to watch exactly where its coming from when u drive in rain. Then use your flashlite or shop light to trace it down. Or you might need to try clear silicone adhesive at all area's of the windshield gasket.
 

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Welcome to the fabulous world of Mustangs! Sometimes it pays to bring your questions to the guys who have been driving those Old Man Cars since they were new... I want to comment on just a couple things for you.

Windshield and Back Light Gaskets: I worked for a Ford dealership back in the day and also managed an auto glass company. So lots of experience with the installation of this glass and best practices. With rubber gaskets, NEVER use any sealants that harden or dry. This includes urethanes and especially silicone. The method of choice is to use non hardening butyl based sealants. 3M still makes a butyl sealant (3M™08905 Auto Bedding and Glazing Compound) suitable for the larger gaps between the gasket and the body. It comes in a caulk tube.

A company called CRL makes a thinner pump grade that is suitable for sealing between the gasket and the glass. This thinner sealant is pumped into the gap using a thin fin-like plastic dispensing spout. The pump (CRL Adhesive Pump) and sealant (CRL Pint Windshield and Repair Butyl Sealant) are available on Amazon.

If you need to use this, be sure to mask your exposed paint around the gaskets. This stuff is really sticky and messy to use. But it absolutely does a great job.

Now about using Pony door panels. If you intend to use the Pony door handle, it is much thicker than the handles you now have. You will need to change the door handle shafts. No big deal about $15. Another thing to be aware of is that you will also need to use Pony door panel clips. I have no idea why Ford used different clips but they did. Now in regards to the panels themselves... Prevailing wisdom is that the TMI panels are the best, I have used them and they are very good quality with a great color match on the vinyl. You will also need other items like the door panel cup brackets, the door cups, the little pads that go in the cups. Panels and stainless trim are sold separately. Make sure to buy the tiny screws that hold the trim in. They don't come with the trim. I guess 15 cents would cut deeply into their profit margins.

While the panels are off, it's a good time to go through your doors and see what works and doesn't work. Get rid of rattles. Replace sticky latch assemblies. Once you have that new and expensive door panel installed... You don't want to have to take it off. That also means that if you are going to change the color of the interior door metal, you want to do your painting first.

Enjoy your car, I was two years younger than you are when I drove my first Mustang. I worked for a Ford dealer back in 64 when they were introduced.
 

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I agree that a hood scoop is a bad idea if it is purely for esthetic reasons. I put one on my '66 coupe years ago. One of my neighbors came by as I was cutting the hole in the hood. He was a Mustang guy and really chewed me out for doing it. In the long run he was right. I did it because I had a Torker intake on it and was having clearance problems. Beechkid is right in that it just provides a really good place for crap to get into the engine compartment. With that setup, starting and keeping the engine running in the winter was a challenge. I suspect part of the reason was that the hole in the hood was allowing engine heat to escape and the carb was icing up.
 

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a hood scoop is a great idea if it's just for aesthetic reasons; just don't cut the hole.
 
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