1966 Mustang Power Steering Pump Leak

I agree it doesnt look too hard to take it off and put it back on.... I think I want to keep the original pump.

I just noticed that Mustangs Unlimited has a service where I can mail them my original and they will do the rebuild and mail it back for $99.
Mustangs Unlimited - The Source for Mustang Parts, Shelby Parts, Cougar Parts and Accessories

I think I might just do that instead but it takes a few weeks to get it back... sounds like a winter project.

Has anyone replaced the gaskets and seals in their power steering pump?

The Power Steering seal and gasket kit is pretty cheap ($20) and I am thinking about doing it myself, maybe have some fun and save a couple hundred bucks... just wondering how hard it would be to do it myself.

- How difficult it is to replace the seals and gaskets?
- Will I need a pulley puller to get the pulley off?
- Will I need bleed the lines etc?
- anything else I need to think about...

Thanks !

First things first.

The '65-'66 Mustangs had the Eaton Pumps, which had separate reservoirs. A leak between the pump and reservoir should be a piece of cake. A leak at the shaft seal, I'd suggest getting a remanufactured pump from your local reliable parts store. You will need to have use of a pulley removal tool. If yu buy a replacement locally, the store will switch it out for you. The problem with sending yours out, is it will take some time to find out if yours is repairable, and then you need to wait for it to be returned. Then, if there's something wrong still, you go through the same time-consuming routine. If it's not repairable, you need to wait for return so you can use it as a core to purchase a replacement. I have an O'Reilley's within a block, and can just walk back down there if something is wrong with the remanufactured unit.

There are three places for a Thompson pump ('67 to ?) to leak. The front seal, the canister or reservoir seal, and the rear/output gasket/seal. To do any work on theses, you will need to remove the pulley, before removing the pump from the mount. The reservoir and rear/outlet seals are easily replaced after popping off the canister/reservoir. Reassemble after cleaning and lightly lubing.

The front or shaft seal will require disassembly of the pump itself. Unless you're pretty confident of your abilities with pumps, I wouldn't tackle it. I'm a former AF Hydraulic tech, I didn't disassemble mine; because the instructions weren't complete enough. If it's leaking out the fron, get a reman pump.

BIGREDRASA said:

There are three places for a Thompson pump ('67 to ?) to leak. The front seal, the canister or reservoir seal, and the rear/output gasket/seal. To do any work on theses, you will need to remove the pulley, before removing the pump from the mount. The reservoir and rear/outlet seals are easily replaced after popping off the canister/reservoir. Reassemble after cleaning and lightly lubing.

The front or shaft seal will require disassembly of the pump itself. Unless you're pretty confident of your abilities with pumps, I wouldn't tackle it. I'm a former AF Hydraulic tech, I didn't disassemble mine; because the instructions weren't complete enough. If it's leaking out the fron, get a reman pump.

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You do not need to remove the pulley on the ITW or Thompson pumps it you're changing the reservior seal or rear output seal where the high pressure hose connects.

These pumps aren't hard to work on, I redid mine with seals, although since it was only leaking and not noisy or otherwise bad I didn't disassemble the cam pack and replace the vanes. They are messy though but like was mentioned, if you're willing to do it then you can save a bit of money. I detailed and repainted my pump when it was apart, here's a link to my Photobucket account where you can see some of the pics Renee_237 - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting look towards the bottom of the page.

Bleeding the pump is easy too. Once the pump is back in the car fill it with Type F ATF and start the motor, keep adding fluid until it's full again. Now turn the wheels from lock to lock several times and check the fluid again and add as needed. Go from lock to lock again and recheck it, you may have to add more Type F but the air should be gone now.

When you remove the lines from the pump have plastic sandwhich bags ready and rubber bands. Once the lines are off put the bags and bands on so the fluid doesn't leak out everywhere. Keep the lines elevated too, not pointed at the floor. Some fluid will leak from the pump itself too.

SalineHornet said:

Thanks for the replies guys... on my pump I noticed RFMG stamped on it in yellow print so although it looks original I am now assuming that its remanufactured?

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Yes.

The one on my car is a reman unit too. I found that out when I took it out to fix the leaks and repaint it that it had Atsco Remanufacture stamped on it with paint. The ID tag that belongs under the high pressure fitting was gone too. Mine is an original pump that came off another car that was redone and installed on my car sometime in it's past.

Since I repainted it it no longer sports any reman signs on it. I did find another used pump on Ebay that I bought just to get an ID tag which I restored. It's in my glovebox since I don't feel like taking the line and nut off to install it. It will be installed whenever I take the pump out of the car again.