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Discussion Starter #1
I started my 66 all day 5-6 times, no issues. Started fine, quickly, smooth. Then suddenly last time it started cranking realy slow. Thought it was a dead battery - got a jump. Tried starting in Park and Neutral Did not help at all with minmal improvement in the crank speed / duration. I got a new battery, checked the cables (seem OK) tried again and nothing. Any thoughts?

I read a note on the Park/Netural adjuster slipping - could this be the issue? I read about grounding issues but it seems like it is working on Cranking.

Love some help.
 

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Thanks for the quick response. Could that really be what it is? Just thinking the engine turns over just sounds like it is working too hard. Connection could have come loose while driving today/.

So you think bad connection causing it not to get enough amps to the starter? I am a novice so how would you tell it was any of the following:

Starter?
Solenoid?
Voltage Regulator?
Neutral Saftey Switch?
Distributor / Plugs?
Fuel?

Just trying to learn. Thanks for the help.
 

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Thanks for the quick response. Could that really be what it is? Just thinking the engine turns over just sounds like it is working too hard. Connection could have come loose while driving today/.

So you think bad connection causing it not to get enough amps to the starter? I am a novice so how would you tell it was any of the following:

Starter?
Could be...
a cheap test without pro grade equipment is wait till its cranking slow. Then unplug the coil wire so the car CANT start and crank for about 10 seconds. Then start grabbing at the positive battery post and cable to the solenoid and feel for temperature. If its cool/room temp...move to the solenoid, feel all over. If thats reasonably OK feeling, then do the starter cable that leads from the solenoid to the starter. Slow cranking with good voltage is the result of resistance. Resistance enough to slow cranking generally develops massive heat! Wherever the heat is, is either the resistance, or nearby behind it leading up to it in a few inches. It will NEVER be past the point of resistance (Unelss you have multiple steps of resistance, but thats a rare and strange lesson for theory that we dont often see in the field). Follow the heat to the hottest point (Youll have 1-3 minutes usually of pretty good residual heat after cranking). Since you changed the battery...verify ALL the cables are clean and tight...both battery cables, the cable to the starter from the solenoid, and the ground lead at the engine block. If all cables are tight and nothing feels hot...it will probably end up the starter due to internal resistance.

Solenoid?
Possible but less likely since you say it does crank every tyme and the solenoid is essentially a remote relay to activate the starter that only kniows ON or OFF. Since you hear it cranking, its probably working UNLESS its built up massive internal resistance. If thats the case, solenoid will get very warm after 5 or 6 seconds of cranking.

Voltage Regulator?
No. Nothing to do with cranking, only recharging the battery. If your battery got low BECAUSE of a defective alternator or regulator that would do it, but you said the problem remained after a brand new fully charged battery was installed...so no, not the regulator.

Neutral Saftey Switch?
NO. If it cranks AT ALL or you hear a CLICK under the hood on a half dead battery, the neutral switch didnt cut the starting. Its a safety contact switch between the key and the solenoid CONTROL wires. The starter is powered directly to the solenoid and the solenoid goes direct to the battery. If there is anything happening underhood in the crank position, its not the neutral switch or the ignition switch, and if it cranks at any speed, the neutral switch cant affect the speed...only if it begins or doesnt begin crankingwhen you turn to start. If sometymes you turn the key and hear NOTHING, then it could be a neitral switch or an ignition switch. But they are just the signal to the solenoid. Nothing more.

Distributor / Plugs?
IF the ignition timing moved and it went way advanced, then that tends to make engines crank much slower (especially warm) but it also generally would cause ignition pinging and possibly misfires if it went far enough to make it crank slow. a simple timing check would rule that out.

Fuel?
No. Cranking speed has zero to do with if there is gas or not or how much. gas is what makes it run, cranking is what gets it moving to try and run, cranking is BEFORE gas is used, so gas doesnt affect it.

Just trying to learn. Thanks for the help.
We all gotta start someplace.
 
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