1966 Mustang Steering Linkage Blocks Oil Pan Removal

2918 Views 6 Replies 4 Participants Last post by Ironhorse302, Feb 12, 2015

66Jones

Discussion Starter · Feb 11, 2015

Hello fellow forum members!
This is my first post, and I normally wouldn't ask for help without properly introducing myself, but my dad and I are desperate. Last weekend we purchased a '66 T-Code mustang from its second owner. Somewhere along the line, the original owner had swapped to a 289.
We are trying to remove the oil pan because when we ran it yesterday it began to make a noise that could possibly be rod knock (we don't think it is, but we would like to rule it out if possible).
Our current problem is that a bar (part of the steering linkage) is preventing us from removing the oil pan. It appears as though the steering linkage is from a '67. We aren't sure, but it definitely doesn't match the pictures we found of the '66 manual steering linkages. We removed the nut on each end of the bar but it does not want to come loose and we do not want to try to force it. What is the proper course of action?
Thank you very much in advance,
Arthur

See less See more

Save

1 - 7 of 7 Posts

Ironhorse302

· #2 · Feb 11, 2015

Arthur, I'll take a shot at this for you. First, replace the removed nuts for now. What I say now would work for any 65 to 70 manual steering Mustang. Go to the passenger frame rail, where idler arm is bolted with two bolts. The idler arm is an L-shaped arm that supports the right end of the center link (the bar you took the nuts off of). By unbolting the idler arm from the frame, you should be able to pull the bar down far enough to allow clearance for the oilpan to slip out.
Please keep in mind that any time you r&r steering components, you may (probably will) affect your alignment; it is always a good idea to check it afterwards.
You did not mention the frame crossbrace in your post, but it, also, is easily removed for clearance.

Disclaimer; This is MY OPINION only, there may be other, better informed members to reply to your inquiry.

See less See more

Save

Charles Reeves

· #3 · Feb 11, 2015

I just unbolted one of the tie-rod ends last time I did this, but I have a puller that normally doesn't damage anything. Ironhorse302's suggestion is probably better.

Save

66Jones

Discussion Starter · #4 · Feb 11, 2015

Thank you for the advice, Ironhorse302! I'll try it out as soon as I get home from school and I'll keep you posted with regards to the result.

Save

seph10

· #5 · Feb 11, 2015

there is a good article on this in mustang monthly, (I think you can find it on there web site also) you can take off the cross bar, then drop the steering linkage, do this by taking out four bolts and nuts, two are on each frame rail ,then just swing the linkage down out of the way, keep in mind that you may have to turn the engine over BY HAND , to get the crank journal out of the way,,I have done this on my "70" mach1 with a 351c,,,I also suggest you look up this information, then you can see exactly how it's done,,it's not a hard job,

See less See more

Save

66Jones

Discussion Starter · #6 · Feb 12, 2015

Thank you very much Ironhorse302 and Seph10!
We unbolted the idler arm as per Ironhorse302's suggestion and the oil pan came right out. Rod knock has been ruled out and we are now examining other potential causes. You guys helped a ton!

-Arthur

Save

Ironhorse302

· #7 · Feb 12, 2015

Thank you for the update. It helps future posters when they can read an actual resolution.

Save

1 - 7 of 7 Posts

This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.

Top Contributors this Month