1966 mustang vibration only at idle in drive
Hey guys, new member here. I have a 66 mustang with a 302 and c4 auto. Seems to have no vibration while driving or even when stopped in neutral. But once i come to a complete stop in drive, it starts vibrating pretty bad. Ive been getting around by going into neutral at stoplights. Any suggestions as to what it could be? Im not a mechanic nor do i really work on cars. Will probably have to take it to someone.
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Mikey, if it's running a little rough at stoplights, the first thing I'd probably do is check plugs. They should be a nice uniform clean light tan on the insulators, and the electrodes should have nice sharp edges - not melty and worn down looking.
Past that, check your plug wires at night to see if you can spot any arcing. Wrap one around your finger. Do you see any cracks?
Then check your choke. Make sure it's closed when cold, and open when your car's engine is warmed up. Those are the most basic tuning things you can check, and they are frequently the reason for a shaky idle.
Hope this helps!
Past that, check your plug wires at night to see if you can spot any arcing. Wrap one around your finger. Do you see any cracks?
Then check your choke. Make sure it's closed when cold, and open when your car's engine is warmed up. Those are the most basic tuning things you can check, and they are frequently the reason for a shaky idle.
Hope this helps!
What you have is an engine misfire. It can be caused by any number of things that you or someone will need to troubleshoot. Any suggestions here is a wild a$$ guess.
This is true, but checking a few basic things to see if you can spot where the problem is can be done by even a novice. =)
Easiest way I've found to diagnose a misfire is to use a timing light and place the sensor over each wire, in turn, until you find the one (or more) isn't firing.
I used to tune cars for my fellow students in the late 70's to make my beer money. One kid had the same symptom as yours for his Ford Maverick. After a careful ignition tune and tweaking the carburetor the problem was still there. It turned out that his automatic transmission had to be rebuilt.
These cars should be "tuned up" often. For an "ignition tune", no longer than every 5000 miles or so. Unlike new cars there are mechanical parts in the distributor that wear and lose adjustment.
I used to tune cars for my fellow students in the late 70's to make my beer money. One kid had the same symptom as yours for his Ford Maverick. After a careful ignition tune and tweaking the carburetor the problem was still there. It turned out that his automatic transmission had to be rebuilt.
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