Ford Mustang Forum banner
Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 4 of 4 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,629 Posts
I had a link to a website somewhere where a 68 that ahd an engine compartment fire was resurrected.


Depends on how bad (hot) the fire got if you want to try getting the motor going the way it is. First, what caused the fire? If it was the carb then I wouldn't try running the car until it is replaced and the intake is removed and any remains of the carb or other debris is removed from the inside of the intake. You don't want to suck any of the debris into the motor trying to crank it over. The valve covers may be destoyed too along with the coil. An oil change would be wise too. Sounds like you will have to do quite a bit of wire jumping to get it going. The car will start and run without the gauges, but since you said the dash is burned the ignition wiring, part of the underdash harness, may be gone too although it could be jumped out completely under the hood.

The fuel line has to be chacked along with the master cylinder and brakes lines in the engine compartment. I really wouldn't try driving this car home though, just get it towed.

To get the signals to work the complete engine compartment harness has to be replaced and possibly the dash.

Everything the car needsto fix it is out there and available.

I have to try to find that website.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,629 Posts
Here's the link to the site with a 68 coupe that was saved after a moderate engine compartment fire, Coupe
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,629 Posts
Middlebay, here's how I feel after seeing those pics, the car is definitely savable.

You put really good pics up, very detailed, and I think I saw what possibly caused the fire. The metal fuel filter that screws into the base of the carb is in two parts. I had one come apart on me at the seam and had fuel on my intake, luckily no fire.


Oh well, onto what I see. New battery, starter solenoid, engine gauge feed harness, headlight harness (includes charging circuit), battery cables, radiator and heater hoses, thermostat, plugs and wires, coil. Intake and valve cover gasket set. New carb and spacer gasket. Basically alot of small stuff, nothing major. There's more things it definitely needs but I won't list everything and some things may show up as you get into it. The distributer may have to be completely replaced as it's aluminum and likely warped bad and a cap, rotor, points and condensor won't fix it. You'll have to see. There is a seal on the bottom of it that most likely has to be changed but that can be done later.

The power steering needs new hoses too. You can leave it alone for now and skip installing that belt. It will just be harder to steer as you'll be working the ram too, but the car will be "lot drivable".

The person who's car I posted the link to is a member of the Vintage Mustang Forum (VMF) who bought it after the fire and repaired it for resale. The VMF can be found here Forum Index - Vintage Mustang Forums? You will find me there under the same user name as I'm active on both these boards.


Now as to the dash harness. Check it out but you may be OK as the main dash harness in a 67/68 is run out near the front, not back by the firewall, I think you got lucky there. I do feel that your defroster ducts, speaker and wiper motor did get damaged though.

For safety's sake do check the brakes out and MC as mentioned but there's also something very important on a 68 that you will want to look at very closely. The steering rag joint, if that fails you have no steering! I can see it in your pic, looks "decent" still but I wouldn't trust it! New ones are only $15 through the Mustang vendors. Cheap insurance! I have a new one for my unfire damaged 68 I have to install. I feel the one on the car is original and being 40 years old it's getting changed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,629 Posts
If you're not 100% looking for the plug wires, distributer cap, hoses ect to be "original with correct stampings/markings" looking then NAPA is a good source for basic parts. They would have any gaskets you would need too.


Personally I don't like the electrical items from Advanced Auto, thier GP Sorensen brand. I replaced the motor in my Chevy last year and I had problems with some of the new electrical items. The metal contacts in the distributer cap became loose, these were molded right into the plastic cap, and I had to replace the cap after only 20 miles on the replacement motor (and cap)! I had a defective new sensor too that I had to replace. I prefer the NAPA Echlin brand or OEM like Delco or Motorcraft.
 
1 - 4 of 4 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top