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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys,

Brand new to the forum. I have learned many things from Miata.net, and the various Volvo forums. Now it's time to dig into the Mustang.

First, is this THE site for classic mustangs, or are there a variety of site that y'all use to gather info.

Here is the story- we have a 1968 2bl, 289, coupe, 3-speed- originally lime gold, but when we got it in 1992 it was blue, and we've painted it twice (both times to blue) and brought the interior close to standard, but with Mach 1 seats, upholstered like the originals. Non Original rims- it was a daily driver. My three brother and I all took turns driving it to high school, and the past few years it has seen occasional use.

A little over a year ago, middle brother was driving when it caught fire in the engine compartment. He is not so mechanical, and waited until the fire trucks arrived-

I had not seen the car until today, as I was living out of town then, and I wasn't in a hurry to see the ole girl in that state. It was a lot worse than I thought. It has been sitting for a year at friend's body shop- the title is now salvaged, but we still own the car.

Anyway, everything rubber or plastic under the hood and through the dash is toast! The hood is a loss, but the paint on the quarters is fine.

My goal is to get her started, and then hopefully drive her off site to the home garage.

Does anyone have expertise in resurrecting a crispy critter? I want to know the minimum of what I'll need to get it started.

I didn't know too much about cars in the mid '90 (although I thought I did). I have since done lots of work on numerous Jeeps, a Miata, and now a Volvo so I'm pretty gung-ho on tackling this, and it seems so simple compared to these newer cars.

Any help would be appreciated. I'm trying to avoid the entire wiring harness if I can- to keep the cost low to make sure she'll still run. I can leave the cooling system alone until she's running.

I'll try to post some pictures of the damage tomorrow. I think the dash is melted and all those gauges too.

The goal for this spring is get her running, stopping, and signals working. Eventually I plan to get ready for a frame off, but I want to get her as close to where she was before we do the tear down maybe later this year.

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks Jay 237 H,

That is a great link- my fire is actually not as bad as his was. I am encouraged after the inspection today, tomorrow after I vacumn off all the junk I will remove the valve covers and intake to do the final assessment.

I have posted the pictures from today online- here's the link:

share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=0EZOG7Vs5bsWGa

I agree with all that safety is paramount. I assure you that I will not do anything unsafe. I'm just trying to get her breathing again. It will be symbolic if I can get it driving, if only around the yard at the shop- my friend says that the car can stay there as long as needed, and he's offered to tow it anywhere I want to. He helped my restore it the first time in 1992-93, so he's real supportive. If I can get it running there will be a lot more spousal support- now it's just viewed as a money sucking burnt up piece of metal that is useless. Once she's running, she'll only be a money sucking hobby in the eyes of the unbelievers.

Thanks for the link and the info. No one ever said if there is any other site that y'all use for mustang info?

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
more questions

Jay, that was a pretty good list. I'll post what I think it will need soon. The wiring harness is actually in great shape except for about a 2 foot section. It comes out of the firewall with the black wrap intact and the color wires look fine. Then about a foot from the front grill it is back to colored wires inside the black wrap.

New facts- found out they only used water to put out the fire. Saturday I used a shop vac and vacuumed out all the junk and it looks so much better. Some of the worst metal is the battery area, which was already corroding long before the fire.

I also wanted to let y'all know that this car was 'tired' before the fire. We had never done anything to the motor, and as far as we know it was original inside- and have not seen any evidence to contradict that.

So the goal is to get her drivable, and in the future we plan to a frame off restoration one day, the right way.

y'all have been helpful and supportive and I appreciate that.
a few questions:
Should I begin new threads about specific question I have that come up, or keep posting on this thread with fire-related issues?

I have Monroe's "how to rebuild a small block ford', and the Hayes manual- anything thing else that is required reading for this project.

how about suppliers? On my cars I'm quite adamant that I use only original (or better parts) and I have a great relationship with my local parts counter at the dealer. Do you guys shop around on price, or do you find one supplier that can handle everything with high quality parts. I want to be economical (not tricked out) but I don't want autozone crap that doesn't fit nor work properly. I wasn't sure where you start on a 40yo car.

I'll need lots of little lines, gaskets, hoses and fittings. Also it was a 2bl, which I should probably go back with for now to keep it simple. in the future I like to rebuild the motor to be pretty hot, but not for now. Any recs on the 2bl card?

I'm reading about the distributor now in Monroe's book. Will have to inspect it next time I'm at the car.

Bob raised the question of the firewall integrity, and that is an issue. My friend who owns the shop said that would be a likely result of the fire. When we do the total restoration I want to do full roll cage then, so it will be addressed in the future. I will assess the best I can for now. This body won't be seeing much torque, as the motor was pretty weak before the fire. She'd start and run fine, only blew a little smoke under full-load acceleration.

one last thing- my friend recommended pouring Marvel Mystery Oil in all the cylinders to prevent a ring from breaking when we turn it over- what's y'all take on that?

I will keep you posted!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Forgot one more item- the hood.
What's the thought on going to a fiberglass hood. I will be replacing the hood (if I can get it running) and the hinges. Any tips on supplier for the hood?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
No way do I need 'original.' This car will never be stock- I just want quality first, and value right up there to. Do you guys get part from your local dealer, or do you have a favorite online seller of FoMoCo and Autolite?

Anybody want to weigh in on where the carb should come from?

The bushing at the top of the shocks melted to. Can those be replaced, or am I shopping for shock too?

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Alright guys, I've been making my list, and checking it twice.

A couple of questions-

If I'm replacing the distributor anyway- do y'all suggest an upgrade to a pointless system- remember we're going for economy and not performance.

The carburetor- Do y'all like Pony Carburetors- or do you have any other suggestions.

From what I've been seeing and reading it looks like there different ways to hook up the tubing to and from the carb and the valve covers. One breather cap had a hose from it and the other cap did not have a hose attached. I'm a little confused about the choke tubing and all things that attach to the carb. Most references I have found say to hook it up like was, but I can't really reference the charred mess.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks Boss,

I'll be removing the lines next weekend and giving them a good inspection/replacement. I don't think they started this one beacuse most everything down there looked pretty clean.
 
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