Ford Mustang Forum banner

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
443 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
If nothing else, I figured the title would draw people in...

Stock 289, original 2V Autolite 2100, added Ignitor II and coil and long-tube headers. She always started well, even though the choke never worked. Three pumps and some warm up and boom. We're good.

I rebuilt the carb and then had a garage I trust put in a new distributor (it needed both the rebuild and the dizzy). They tweaked out the carb to make sure it worked right, added the Ignitor set up, set the timing and everything seemed fine.

When she's cold, I give her one pump to set the choke and she starts like a champ.

When I shut her off for about two minutes and try to restart her hot, she starts like a champ.

It's the "Goldilocks" start that is a huge problem. If I go to the store and let her sit for 10-20 minutes, she starts hard. She'll crank fine (battery is good, I replaced the starter and wrapped it with a heat-resistant blanket, as it sits right near the headers), but she doesn't want to turn over. With a little patience and some putzing with the gas pedal, I get her to turn over, but it's not as easy as it used to be.

The carb has a spacer on it. The fuel line is metal and appears to be away from major heat sources near where she comes into the carb. She runs like a top when she's started. It's just the starting that is a problem.

Thoughts?

Thanks.

Doc
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
155 Posts
Is it possible you are getting vapor lock in the carb?
You may have a spacer but this may be conducting more heat to the base. There is Aluminum Heat Sinks that can be installed in between to draw the heat away from the base. Other possibilities that I can think of would be the fuel pump. Does it have a pinhole? How old is it?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,555 Posts
Ok, the way I understand it, it cranks over okay, but doesn't want to start running. I would remove the air cleaner when this happens, make sure the choke plate is fully open, open the throttle by hand and see if the accelerator pumps gas into the venturi's, I suspect the carb is boiling over and flooding the engine, also check the float level if it is too high it will flood over, also there could be a tiny particle in the needle and seat causing it not seal completely, try holding the accelerator to the floor and see if it starts running. Good Luck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,913 Posts
[QUOTE=Doc

It's the "Goldilocks" start that is a huge problem. If I go to the store and let her sit for 10-20 minutes, she starts hard. She'll crank fine (battery is good, I replaced the starter and wrapped it with a heat-resistant blanket, as it sits right near the headers), but she doesn't want to turn over. With a little patience and some putzing with the gas pedal, I get her to turn over, but it's not as easy as it used to be.


Hello Doc,
Not sure if I fully understand what is happening.

I am thinking the motor is turning over slower when the motor is warm.

This would indicate one of two things

1, - The timing is slightly too far advacned

OR
2. - The battery is weak.

A quick test for the timing - - put a mark on the current location of the dizzy housing
and the block (use a makic marker) The loosen the hold down bolt - - rotate the distributor just a little "counter clockwise". Just move the distributor a little and tighten the bolt. See how she runs. If NO improvement - -re-position the dizzy to the mark.

The battery - -could show proper voltage - -BUT the cranking amps could be too low for the warm motor. I know it is confusing - -but the battery has a certain amount of power to crank the motor. When the motor is warm, parts expand and cause a little more resistance.

I agree with the others that you need to be sure the carb is NOt dumping fuel into tthe intake after shut off - -BUt often times this will show a condition known as "deiselig" or run on.

Let us know and we will try some more ideas

Print Dad
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
443 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Rex-

Yes it cranks fine. It starts great cold. If I turn it off and start it within about 5 minutes (hot), it starts great as well. It's those "daily driver" moments where you stop at the store for 20 minutes and come back out to start it that it cranks, but doesn't want to start. If it were vapor lock, wouldn't I have problems on hot starts?

Print Dad-

Great to hear from you again! The battery is three years old, stored for winters and it checked out fine before install. Still, I can get a new one (should soon anyway) and see what happens. The dizzy is brand new and was professionally set, so I don't want to mess with it.

What should the float be set at? I used a set of directions that came with the carb and I can't seem to locate them. Is there a risk that taking the lid off the carb will screw up about 90 other things that the guys at the shop did and really mess me up?

It's funny: When it was not working at all, I had no problem tearing the carb into itty bitty pieces. Now that I put a ton of money into having them fix stuff, I'm afraid to mess with it.

Any advice you or others have would be appreciated.

Thanks!

Doc
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
53 Posts
So when you let it sit for 15-20 minutes, its hard to start. I'm inclined to agree with above posts regarding carb. First be sure that engine is not running at high temperature. Next, I would wrap fuel line from pump to carb, and closely check float level and inlet valve seat to be sure carb isn't heating up and dumping fuel when parked. Finally I would get a spacer that won't transfer engine heat to carb. After that, I'd probably check into ignition system.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
217 Posts
I have the same exact issues you describe. I recently swapped out my 1" aluminum spacer for a 1" phenolic spacer, and pulled my gas lines from pump to carb a little farther away from the heads, water pump, and intake, and my problem seemed to go away for the moment. Of course I have only given it the driveway test so it's not a sure thing yet.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,555 Posts
You can remove the top of the carb, even with the engine running, this way you can check the wet fuel level, never check it at an edge of the bowl as the fuel will creep up the sides and give a false reading, the choke linkage will stay attached, you just have to disconnect the choke tube from the choke housing. Good Luck.
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top