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I am hoping someone can help me with my torque box fitting. I have been slowly working on my 1968 coupe’s floors and torque boxes. I have come to the stage where it’s time to weld in the driver’s side torque box however it seems to be a tight fit ( I figure this is normal) but I am needing to pull and twist it into the correct position. An example is once its fitted in it is not running parallel/flush with the bottom of the rocker. I need a C clamp to move it into position. It’s not to the point where I am cranking the C clamp as hard as I could to do it but pretty close. I am worried that if I weld it into this position could it pull or twist to something else and cause a problem later? Or is this completely normal when replacing the torque boxes?:scratchchin

Thanks
Chris
 

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Did you install temporary bracing to keep things in place before you started removing structural components? If not, that's where the problem starts. Did you take any reference measurements?

About all that you can do if you didn't is to find another 68 and take measurements and try to replicate them as best that you can. Your biggest concern is going to be door fitment. It may be that the new torque box is slightly off, too. Do you have what's left of the old one to compare?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I did not install any bracing. I was told and I verified on this site it was not needed in a coupe if you did one side at a time:confused:

Did I miss something or screw this up? Now I am worried!

There is nothing left of the old one either :(

I am not sure what I could have measured beforehand except the placement of the floor support which I did. I suppose I could have measured between the rocker and the frame rail.
Yikes!

Thanks
Chris
 

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Hi, if your doing one side at a time you'll be okay. Just keep in mind that if your floor is cut out and the torque box is removed it is possible to pull/push the "A" pillar out of location. I did install torque boxes into my '66, which I believe are the same. The parts that I installed were a re-popped part and I had to cut the spot welds along the rear edge to make them fit correctly, then rewelded. Don't assume that new parts are built/stamped correctly. As long as the floor that the car is sitting on is fairly level/flat side to side you should be ok. Take some cross car measurments as a referance before you start fitting parts. One other thing that I might add, you may have to hammer form the bends on the flanges to allow better fit. I did have to screw around quite a bit to get the part to line up. The other thing that I did was to bolt in the shock tower braces just to add a little more stiffness.

http://troynewton.org/mustangs/img/t-box.JPG
 

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Great photo, DoubleD. It's worth a thousand words.

Chris, don't get upset. You'll get it right with a bit of thought and measurement along with a dab of fitment. Is there a way to install the door with the glass in the up position? The door fit and the windshield at the A piller are the concerns that can be overcome. A car that has been hit in that area would be harder to repair than what you have to deal with.

Just take your time and you'll get it right. Remember we're supposed to be working on these old ponies for fun.
 
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