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Discussion Starter #1
Howdy gang,

This is my first restoration project. Hence, the questions because I am not familiar with older cars. I have only worked on fuel injected cars, so, I am not familiar with carburetors.

I need some help identifying the carb in my Stang. I don’t know if I need to rebuild it or not, maybe you can also advise on that as well, but, that is what prompted the question in the first place. The carb is stamped with "Motorcraft", I did not find any numbers or other identifiers on the carb. How much play should be in the carburetor? It seems like this one has too much play in it. From the ones I have seen in the past, the carb usually seals up and it takes some force to open it, this one doesn’t take much at all.

Also, there a black round part that is broken, next to the carb. If you know what that is, please advise.

I took the car through emissions and it failed miserably on Hydrocarbons during idle, it was a little under twice the allotted amount. I changed the spark plugs, wires, and distributor cap. It felt like it was there was a misfire and sometimes I had to put the car in neutral at stop lights so it wouldn't stall when it was in gear.

Thanks in advance for the help.

Cheers,
-Fisher
 

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Thats a Motorcraft 2100 series 2 barrel carb. Standard fair. The round black thing on the side is your choke heater. Easily replaced if it's not working.

I don't understand when you say something is loose. What is it exactly you are talking about? The choke on the top? Of the throotle shaft on the bottom? Neither should be tight per say. They should operate smoothly. Now, having said that, it is common for the throttle shafts to wear in the base plate causing lateral movement and vacuum leaks. That can be repaired by a carb specialist company like Pony Carburetors.

The carb can be easily rebuilt if need be. Hope that helps. Bruce
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hey Bruce,

Thanks for the info, it helps quite a bit!

Sorry, I should have given more information on the “loose part”. The part that seems too loose or has too much play is the butterfly/throttle plate. I can easily move it with my finger with no resistance at all at first, then after a few of centimeters where the plate is about ¼ of the way open, the resistance kicks in. I could be wrong, but it just seems like it should open up as far as it does with no resistance.

Cheers
-Fisher
 

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the butterfly you are moving is the choke plate and it is opened by a bimetallic coil in the black round thing, once the key turns on the coil heats up and unwinds in turn opening the choke, slowly, to allow the engine to warm up properly.
a little resistance is normal. it should not move freely with no resistance, although after 20 minutes or so of running it should be wide open.

the throttle butterflies are down inside the carb throat and there are one for each barrel (AKA Venturi) . unless you took the carb off, (or have freakishly long thin fingers :nogrinner ) you would not be able to reach them.

what you have is one of the most straightforward carbs out there. extremely simple to rebuild and a kit is only about $20

CARBURETOR REBUILD KIT V8 2 barrel Ford 2100 | CJ Pony Parts

It couldnt hurt to go through it.

to set the idle mixture screws which are at the base of the carb right in front, on for each barrel, you can start with 2.5 turns out from gently seated and adjust each screw in till the engine stumbles, then back it out till the engine stumbles again, and set it halfway between those two points.
thats about all the tuning you can do with these carbs.
Good luck! and have fun!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Still a Miss

Hey gang,

Still having a miss and issues at idle while in drive or reverse. Need some help trouble shooting please.

1969 302 v8 5.0

Stuff done already:
Carburetor has been re-built & adjusted
New spark plugs
New wires
New distributor cap
Adjusted the rotor
New fuel lines
New fuel filter
New fuel sending unit


My thoughts are that there is a vacuum leak somewhere or the timing chain needs to be adjusted??? Any ideas?

Thanks guys...

Cheers
-Fisher
 

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Vacuum leak is always a possibility, but usually doesn't cause a random miss. Pull the vacuum line off carb to distributor and plug at carb to see what happens. No mention of replacing the points. Timing chain is not adjustable or the rotor. I assume you mean adjusted the timing.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
hey Explorer...

initiall the points were not moving at all, thought it was weird that the car even idled for a moment. Fixed the points and it does run much better.
 

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Carb.

Hey man! Congrats on getting your Mustang running better! You mentioned that you failed emissions in Arizona, correct? Why are they checking a car that old, are you a new owner? I thought California was bad but they don't make us smog older than 1975. The reason I am replying is you stated that you failed because your Hydrocarbons were very high. If that is the case, the carb most likely did not have any bearing on this. Hydrocarbons are a result of ignition misfire. Hope you have it all sorted out so you can drive it and enjoy it. Dale
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Hey Dale,

Still working on it. The engine is shaking and the oil pressure is running high. Though overall, it does run better. I may have to have a shop look at it.

The only other thing I acn think of, there is a small chunk of the at the driver side manifold broken off a small corner of metal where the first screw bolt (closest to the front bumper) goes on. Could this be the issue and causing a vacuum leak that would make the engine rock, want to stall and not pass emissions? I just noticed it the yesterday.

Thanks for the feedback and insight.

Cheers,
-Fisher

Az regualtes any cars newer than 1966 to go through emissions.
 

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1. Arizona is nuts for requiring that

2. how big is the chunk missing? the intake is designed so that it completely seals so that it can provide proper vacuum.. anything that can cause a leak will result in problems like yours
 

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Connecticut used to test the emissions on my '72 with a 351W (smog pump removed) and that same carb, and each time I'd get a zero reading. If the engine is tight and tuned it burns fuel very efficiently.
 
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