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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am looking at a 1969 Mach 1 with a 351w. I'm pretty new to these cars. I think it looks like a pretty good project but I'm not sure what it would be worth. The information I have is below and I will try to post some pics also. I believe the engine and transmission are original (not sure where the stamps are). Any advice or comments about the car and/or value would be greatly appreciated. :bigthumbsup

VIN # 9TO2Hxxxxxx
I know the "xxxxxx" show the build sequence and I didn't want to post his whole VIN.

Codes from door tag:
63C / 65 / 3W / 25C / 15 / 6 / x

























 

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Dang bud that doesnt look to bad, is it all jusr surface rust and not really bad set in rust? And im pretty sure the white interior is pretty rare
 

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Looks like a pretty nice original car for a restoration. The door rust is a very common and easily visible Mustang trait. Be sure to take a good look at the floorpans and frame rails as well as the rockers. Take a good look inside the trunk area for either 1/4 panel repair, rust , or replacement.

I didn't see a code that corresponded to the paint from your data plate info.

Here's a quick decoder site. Everything else seems pretty much in line with the data plate. Classic Pony Cars - 1969 Mustang Factory Options

How much is the seller's asking price? Check e-bay for some comps, but I'm sure you'll see many similar cars in the teens.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the advice. He talked about a selling price of $11,500. Is this within reason?? I am clueless to what would be a fair price.
 

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If you don't have major rust in those areas pointed out to you, I think that price is pretty fair. What with the rough financial times, true Mach 1's are less expensive then when I bought mine two years ago. It wouldn't hurt to try to see if he will come down in price though. Can't hurt to ask. My Mach 1 is completely rust free, but needs new paint, chrome and trim. As close as I can determine, I still have the original motor (351 W) and 3-speed transmission. Your interior and rim-blow look like they're in fair shape. I have to completely re-do my interior, including the rim-blow and dash pad.

Mine is a Dearborn built Mach 1 (June, 69) and as such, Marti Auto Works had the original factory invoice that I was able to purchase. My plan is to restore it as close to original as possible.

The 69 Mach 1 was always my dream car. If it's yours too, I hope can swing the deal.

Good luck!
 

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Sounds a little high for a car you will need to put $30k in. There is a nice 1970 Mach1 driver for sale around the corner from me for $17,900 it is not original has a aftermarket shifter, steering wheel, etc... but it has nice paint, interior. There is another one close to the same condition as the one you are looking at, unrestored original parked and not running is selling for $10k and it is a rust free CA car.

I just bought a 1970 Sportsroof v8, ps, pb, car (yeah it was taken apart) mostly there for $1,500... The market is much lower then then many Mustang fans want to admit (mainly because they purchased in the last few years and paid through the nose :gringreen)

Without seeing the car in person I would say that it is a $8,000 car, considering it is a 2v/auto car and while it is complete, you will need to replace everything, and if there is rust in the top of the doors by the door handles, and on the qrt panels, there will be rust in the floors, rear qrts, tail lamp panel, and trunk floor. Not to scare you off completely but you are going to be looking at a major investment to restore it right.... when you could just buy one done right that someone else put way to much into...
 

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The price is too high. Although the car looks like a good project, if there is that much visible rust, there is almost certainly alot more hidden issues. The car deserves to be fixed, but it will be expensive.

Good luck though!
 

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I didn't see a code that corresponded to the paint from your data plate info.
It's there, a little confusing, but it's code "65".

6 = Acapulco Blue
5 = blacked out hood treatment


That car is one of 1,967 that were Acapulco Blue (code 6) with white Mach interior (code 3W) in 1969.

That car would be close to one of the last in 69 to have Acapulco Blue paint as that color was discontinued in April. That car has a scheduled build date of March 25th, and could have been built a few days later pushing it into the first week of April.

If the motor is original the VIN should be stamped in the flat area between the intake manifold and the bell housing on the top. You have to have your head back by the firewall looking down to see it and you may have to wipe the block off good if it's grimy. It may not be the whole VIN either, it may just be the year, plant code and the squential number, something like "9T-184xxx", depends on who was stamping the blocks.
 

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jay H 237,

Thanks for clearing up the paint code.:bigthumbsup

I always loved the 1969 Mustang Mach 1. I tried in vain to find one in good shape when I was in high school (late eighties). I had a limited budget, but all the Mach 1's I saw were really rough. These cars were driven hard and left in sad shape. I had to walk away from several cars, but I eventually purchased a J code '68 fastback (still have it :happydance:). I must admit, I'd love to add either a big block or "M" code Mach 1 with a manual tranny to the stable.

I hope you get a deal worked out, it's a nice car that deserves to be restored. Depending on your skills, the restoration price tag can get expensive real fast. Just paint and body quotes in my area can run around $10K alone. Add in the cost of any motor and tranny work, plus miscellaneous trim parts, interior resto and you'll see that purchasing a restored Mach 1 may be a plausible option for some. The market is currently in your favor, so you have timing on your side.

Best of luck to you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for all the advice :bigthumbsup I am quite fortunate that I have access to a painter (mother-in-law's brother) and several nearby relatives with the equipment and knowledge to restore and rebuild cars. This should really cut the cost of paint and body work. I believe that most of my cost will come from materials and a whole lot of time, sweat, and busted knuckles. I know this can still get out of hand but I think/hope I can manage it without my wife leaving me. I (my wife) have set my budget for the actual purchase at $12k and plan/want to do some work to get it where I want it. I like the idea of being able to drive my project...

As far as the rust issue, there is very little surface rust in the trunk, floor pans and rear quarters that I could see. Are there anymore key areas that I should check? The frame does show some rust. However, it is not "flaking" and I think I should be able to get most of it. The car runs strong and shifts well. The carb needs a little adjustment but other than that, the engine runs better than I expected. Also, it pulls to the right when you hit the brakes.

Thanks again for the advice and keep it coming! I appreciate all I can get:shiny:
 
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