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1969 or 70 Mustang Fastback

5776 Views 6 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  guitarsandcars
I'm looking at a 1969 or 70 Mustang Fastback. I'm not sure if it is the Mach 1 model or not... but I know it is a beauty... the price asked at the dealership is $3900 and it isn't in very good condition. The rear fender is missing, the driver side door has no upholstery on the inside, the hood needs realignment, the breather under the hood scoop is uninstalled, the grill is uninstalled, and the dash is uninstalled. All the uninstalled parts are there, just either in the trunk or in the cab so I would have to restore those things. I'm not sure whether I would be able to afford to have it worked on in a shop and could only do the basic repairs without paying someone to do them without your help... in lots of places it has bonding and in others some rust, but I think that won't be a problem with some new bonding, sanding, and a paint job. The door has some trouble opening from the side coming in contact with the front-side panel. This thing is very good looking, but needs a lot of work.. I'm thinking about how much it would cost for some new parts. Also, something in the ignition system needs replacing, and they said that the motor was fine. Restoration tips would be helpful in deciding whether or not to purchase this. I work full time at 16 after graduating early from high school, so after this will be paid off, I will be able to spend a lot of time on it

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I'm sure you'll get a LOT of helpful hints on here! But to start, you're not sure if it's a 69 or 70? Look at the front. If there are 4 headlights across the front (is the grille all together?), not headlights and foglights, these are 4 distinct and same-sized lights, it's a 1969 (2 on either side). At least this is the easiest indication. A 70 only has the 2 'normal' lights.

I'd also suggest a restoration guide. I've yet to find one that goes into really fine detail, but it will give you a good start to reassembling the interior. Is the headliner still in place? When we restored my Dad's 69 Mach, that was the hardest thing to install! Definitely a 2-person job.

As for the door rubbing the fender - probably just a simple job of adjusting the door or fender. That's pretty easy to do. Door panels will run you $80 and up depending on what interior, if it's a Mach, etc. There's a company in Cali. called California Mustang Parts (I think). Check them out. I've bought from them and they seem about on-par with the rest of the parts stores out there. You might also want to check Autokrafter's, CJ's Pony Parts, KAR, Mac's Auto Parts and other places' websites for additional parts pricing.

I'm having a hard time, myself, with the price-tag. Especially in the shape it's in - not too bad, but sounds like it's pretty well dismantled. From the pics, looks like someone started a restore, but never finished. Without seeing it up-close, it's hard to tell how bad/good the bodywork is that was started. And without knowing more about it - Mach, milage, etc. - I'm not sure the price is worth what's there. Guess it also depends on how much you want it. They are hard to come by - at least around here!

Anyway, good luck with the project and, again, I'm sure you'll get lots of help on here! This is a great bunch of people....
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It is definitely a 1969 model. Here are a couple pictures of my 1969 Sportsroof.

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You're looking at a big job. Any restoration done right is going to be expensive. I'd suggest you get a cataloge from Year One or one of the other major parts suppliers and price the parts you obviously need. Also before you make your decision be sure to take a real good look at the floor pans and frame rails. I'm in the middle of restoring a 66 FB the pics are posted on the forum if you want to take a look at the before condition of the car. Body work which included lower quarters, fenders, doors, hood, full floorpan and various other smaller parts and paint was going to run me in excess of 8G's (In Alabama...California will probably be more expensive) once we got into it we found it will need two frame rails also, so you can add to the price.

I can't do bodywork but can do most of everything else. So I'm looking at totally rewiring the car and restoring/replacing the interior, and a total rebuild on the engine and drive train. My self imposed limit is to spend no more than the car is reasonably worth which is about 25G's (though honestly I'll probably exceed that at least by a bit) that may sound like a lot but once you spread it out over several years it's not that bad.

Anyway I said all this to say that before you get into this you need to take a hard look at what you are capable of. Skills can be learned and can be fun to learn understanding that you will make mistakes and it will cost to fix them but it is your car and you can do this as fast or as slow as you want and can afford. BUT be honest about what you are capable of, too many of us bite off more than we can chew and then the project dies and is sold off because we get discouraged (which looks like what happened in the case of this car).

Money is more problamatic. How much can you afford to spend? Are you planning on soon going to school, getting married, having kids, etc. all this and more will effect the project. If you are married how does the misses feel about it? No car in the world is worth comming between you and a spouse. So you need to look at a lot of things and give it a lot of thought. If you can't swing it now save for a few years then take another look...there will be other cars. If you have the funds and time to commit then go for it and have a great time.

Mike
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Re-read your post...saw you were 16 so I guess you are not married or going to have any kids soon:) . One of the best things you can do is get your parents involved in the purchase. Especially since it's their garage that you will have tied up for a while.

Some other thoughts. No dealer in the world is going to deal honestly with a 16 yo. As soon as you walked onto that lot he saw dollar signs. If he was asking 3900 he will sell to an adult a LOT cheaper. Also don't believe a word he says and assume the worst. If the motor doesnt run and he can't get it to run assume it needs a rebuild and adjust your offer accordingly. Used car dealers are not the most honest people around and he WILL take advantage of you if you let him. It's your money be wise and careful with it. When making an offer start low...WAY low. You can work up. It's a game, he wants to take as much of your money as he can and you want to keep as much as you can. Remember if you don't like the deal you can always walk away-he on the other hand needs to pay the rent and put food on the table...play hardball, When he says no it doesn't always mean no don't be afraid to walk away and come back later-you might get a better deal than you thought you would.

Mike
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Get under the car

My advice, take a CLOSE look UNDER the car, Look for any bondo on the frame rails, Look CLOSE at the seat pan rail (the rail supporting the seat under the car. pull the carpet up and look at the seat pan is it rusted through, Look at the inside of the shocktowers where it joins the frame rail (behind the coil) Dig out the dirt and see is it rusted through the frame rail? Look where the rear springs attach to the frame under the rear seat area, is it rusted out? IF you find rusted holes assume you have found about 25% of the problem, it will be worse once you start taking things apart. After looking at all those parts and you did not find ANY rust....you did not look hard enough.....take an honest look, these parts will be expensive to replace if there are rust holes in them...if you look HARD and it looks OK then you can feel good that the work it needs is cosmetic and not structure. Bondo, sanding body panels is easy, somebody stopped a restoration for a reason.......did they find structure damage?

If you want to see what it takes to fix damage in these areas take a look here..

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/classicstang/

Dan
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It has a salvage title, and the owner doesn't have time to restore it although he is still working on it occasionally. There isn't any structure damage and the ineterior is very nice... leather bucket seats and the rear seats don't have any tears whatsoever. I will need to redo some bondo on the body which I've never done before but sounds like fun. There is a windshield, the ignition system and some misc. parts on order that should arrive to the dealership and he will up the price once sold to around $4500 with the new parts installed. I'm getting a personal loan so payments will be minimum, about $120 a month for a stretched amount of time. I'm thinking a loan around $6-7k for the basis of restoring alot more than what I normally could. I have access to a free mechanic and shop since he's my dad's good friend and has a car lift in his shop. Hehehe, he's trying to get it too but his wife won't let him. Anyways, I'm going for it since in Exeter, California there are hardly any muscle cars around... one in the city that I see all the time, and a couple broken down ones that I see while driving past people's homes. I'm going to customize this on the exterior like on the back where it needs the lettering to spell M U S T A N G, I'm going to get a plasma cutter and do it from a sheet of diamond plate steel and getting them chromed. Possibly a new dual exhaust with 3-4" pipes. Oh, and a licorice rope dispenser on the roof of the interior....mmm... licorice:winks
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