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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello AFM members,

I have installed the Painless wiring harness (part #: 20122) into my 1970 Mustang coupe. However, I am having some issues and wanted to see if anyone here may be able to help me get out of this jamb.

The issues I am having are the following:

1. When I activate my left turn signal, the front turn signal light (under bumper and above the front valance), doesn't turn on and blink. Additionally, the light on the guage cluster doesn't blink. I can hear the "clicking" of the turn signal in the guage cluster, but I see nothing. Thinking it may be an issue with the light, I replaced the light, still no luck. Any ideas of how this problem may be fixed?

2. My right turn signal (the tail light and the light in the front between the bumper and valance), blinks more rapidly. Any idea of what might cause this and how to fix it?

3. My left tail light and right reverse light are considerably brighter than the other tail and reverse light. Any ideas of the issue here? I assume it's primarily the bulb, but the reverse lights already had bulbs installed, so I am unsure of the issue. How might this be fixed?

4. When I turn on either of my turn signals, the reverse lights blink as well. This is really confusing me since I inspected all of my wiring for this and it appears to be correct.

5. When I turn the right turn signal on (it only does this with the right turn signal), turn on the emergency blinkers, or rotate the switch to activate the wipers, the radio shuts off. When I turn off the turn signals, wiper switch, or e-blinkers, the radio turns back on. This is a very touchy issue because I barely have to touch the turn signal lever to activate the right turn signal and the issue occurs. Ideas of how to fix this would be great!

6. When I connected my battery, the horns sounded. I removed the relay for the horn, and it didn't do it again, so does this mean my relay is stuck open, or is bad?

7. The headlights won't turn on when I turn on the switch.

8. As soon as the key is turned on to the "ACC" mode, the reverse lights come on and stay illuminated until you take the ignition switch and turn it to "OFF" and remove the key.

I assume most of these problems are simple fixes that I am overlooking and not realizing it. I have taped all loose wires (with or without connectors) so they don't short out (or short something out). Any help would be appreciated!

Best Regards,
Benjamin
 

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Many of those issues sound like a bad ground somewhere. Sorry I'm not being more specific, but review all the grounding locations. I can think of three, but i suspect there are more. One in the trunk, one in the dash and one more up front to the left of the horns.


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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you for the information. I will do just that and post back here with my findings.

I appreciate the help!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Okay, so I checked all my grounds (and re-did them on the interior) and I am having the same issues, except now, I press my brake pedal and my radio goes off, too. The only thing I can think of is the ground wires need to have the contact points sanded to bare metal so they are not touching the primer.

Any thoughts or further ideas? This is becoming increasingly frustrating.

Thank you.
 

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Does the '70 Mustang have the horribly designed turn signal switch under the horn button in the steering column? My '65 has it this way and this switch is a source of headaches since all of the turn signal wires, brakes and horn wires all travel up the column. This switch (if still ther for '70) could be causing some of issues. Also check and re-check the postions of wires on the headlight switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hello,

Yes, the turn signal switch is exactly like that. I have the "iditm" or flaming river, I don't remember, steering column. I will check those wires. Thank you.

Regarding the headlight switch, I will check them again, but I have already checked it several times.

Thanks for the advise!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I meant to say "idit steering columns," sorry.

While I am typing this, I checked all my wiring for the steering wheel. Here were my discoveries, if you desire to call them such, lol:

I used my PowerProbe to test the wire from the Painless Wiring harness that turned on the turn signal. It worked. Then I did the same thing with the connector to the steering wheel attached to that set of wires (it is a connector), nothing. I tested, with my ohm meter, the connector on the Painless harness, it showed a short at first, then it went away.... I am not sure what's going on.

Anyways, it seems as though that testing yeilded no positive updates. I sincerley appreciate the help, and am still stuck, :p. Any further suggustions would be great!

Thank you.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hello AFM members,

I have checked, and fixed, almost all the wires in the vehicle. With no progress. Does anyone have another suggustion?

Just to make sure everyone understands what shorts out my radio, I have listed the items below. Really, all of the electrical controls.

1. Turn signals (both R and L).
2. Emergency flashers/hazard lights.
3. Shifting gears.
4. Turning on the headlights.

The thing I found, which allowed my headlights and marker lights to illuminate, was that some of my wires were rubbing against the frame in a crease I made so the seat wouldn't crush them, and was rubbing the insulation off and shorting out the wires. I fixed this and got my running lights to operate as they were suppose to.

Add onto the issues:

1. My headlights and tail lights are of different brightness. When the headlights are on, the driverside headlight is dimmer than the passenger side, and the passenger side tail light is dimmer than the drivers side. When I hit the dimmer switch, the drivers side headlight turns off, and the passenger side headlights remains un-affected and stays illuminated.

2. When I connect my steering wheel and wiring harness wiring, and have the relay and fuse installed for the horn, connecting the battery cables to a charger (or battery), will make the horns turn on and make the horn noise, even when the horn button is not pressed.

Any ideas would be great! I'd love to get my car out for A/C and exhaust so I can start it, but this needs to be fixed first.

By the way, I actually have a "Flaming River" tilt steering column, not the Idit version that I thought I had before.

Thank you.
 

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you really need to start at the fuse block and trace your way through all of the wiring. you say you've checked "everything" but obviously you havent because there is a problem and you havent found it :kooky: Wiring problems like yours are a huge pain in the neck.

a few things to remember if that column uses the factory turn signal/horn/flasher switch. you only have a dual filament bulb in each side in the rear.
one filament is for your rear lights that come on with the headlights, and the other is your stop/turn signal filament.

if your right turn signal is on the right stop light isnt going to light, because that same filament is flashing as your turn signal indicator.
making sense so far? i hope so.

the lights flashing too quickly means you're drawing too much current somewhere in the circuit. those flasher cans have a little bimetal strip that bends as it warms up from the current draw, opens the circuit cutting power to the lights, as it cools it bends back turning the lights back on.

there should be a separate flasher can for the emergency flashers.

I would start with the tail lights and headlights because they are the simplest circuit. just take your time and work your way from the fuse block to the switch to the headlights and to ground. for each headlight and each taillight.

you WILL find the problem eventually. IF you check EVERYTHING
Good luck, and may the electrical gremlin gods be smiling upon you :gringreen
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thank you for the reply and information.

You made a fair point about my not checking everything because of the issues that still exsist. lol

I am thinking after attaching the ground straps in the engine bay, and checking one more time, I will remove the entire harness from the vehicle and inspect it on my work bench. After which, I will re-install and re-connect everthing. Suggustions? Ideas? Thoughts?

Thank you.
 

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I would start at the fuse block and follow the wiring through the signal switch out to the bulbs and back.

I know it sounds tedious, well, theres no bull$hitting. its tedious as hell. but its still easier than yanking out the entire harness...
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I did end up pulling the harness. It took me a few hours and it was out.

I have been checking the harness and have only found minor crimp problems, and wire terminations, so far.

So, I am not sure what's going wrong, so far.....

Thank you.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Hello AFM members and fellow viewers,

I am still having problems with my wiring harness. At this point, I am contemplating buying a new one and starting over from there.

Painless wiring harness' are NOT PainLESS, they are PainFUL! To anyone considering buying one of Painless' harnesses, you may want to re-think this. Not only do they use FAR too much plastic in the components of the harness, not including the crimp terminals/connectors, but after completely pulling out my harness and re-wiring it from the start, I am still having problems.

At this point, the radio still shorts out (even with the ground straps installed in the engine bay), and the lights only work SOMETIMES.

I am really not sure of what to do at this point. Any thoughts and ideas would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Okay, well I didn't buy a new harness. However, I did relocate the fuse block to the trunk. Now, the only problems is that my radio won't power on, makes a ticking noise, and when the headlights are on, the turn signals don't work at all, not on the cluster, the parking lights, or the rear taillights.

Any thoughts as to what the problem might be, I don't even hear the flashers ticking.

Thanks!
 

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Dude, I feel bad for ya man. Having to turn the radio back on after each time you brake is a pain. :yup: Did you follow the Painless directions to the letter? do they have a help line? do you have the latest installation instructions? if you had the entire harness out then you have inspected every inch of all the wires for nicks in the insulation smashed wires, sometimes a smashed wire will break the conductor inside but the outside insualtion may look ok. Pay very close attention to the grounds. Use the electrical goop and use sandpaper on the frame where they connect. also note the repro sockets are absolute junk and you may want to splice in the old ones.



I looked into the painless and heard it was anything but painless. So I went with a AAW. even then, a few times I had to call the tech guys there they really want to help you because it their rep on the line. Also, I found that between the time I bought the harness and installed it, the drawings had been revised, so I got the new ones emailed to me.

Best of luck.
 
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