[t3mp3st003]

Hey, new to the forums, trying to find out what I should use in my new cleveland 4v setup. I have a rebuilt longblock, I need the following:
Cam
Lifters
Rocker Arms
Pushrods
Timing Set (gears and chain)
Intake (I have a stock 4v and a Edelbrock Torker, however I've heard that the torker does not like to idle)

I'm looking for a decent amount of power, but low end torque is equally important. This is going to be my daily drive, but I plan on driving it pretty hard. Any suggestions on a good build? I've been told to look into roller cams as well as roller rockers, can anyone point me to a good setup, I see a whole buncha different ones online and am unsure as to which one to get.

Furthermore, I have been having some transmission issues, the car kicks back pretty bad shifting into reverse, and doesn't downshift. It shifts into drive fine, and will downshift when I select gear 1 or 2, however not by itself. While it still had its engine in it, I was using a holley 650 double pumper carb which required me to take of the transmission kickdown lever. I'm assuming thats why it wont downshift, does anyone know how I can mount it on my carb?

 

[FONC 67]

I have found that a Comp Cams 268 works very well with these engines for great low end torque and good power up to 5500 RPM.I run an Edelbrock Torker and a 700 D/P Holley in combo with the 268. An excellent set up for the street!

 

[1969 LE600]

I run the 351c torker It's not a low end car but once you get the revs up hold on. I also run 12.6-1 compresson and a holley 750 dp carb and a top loader. I hear great things about harland sharp 1.73 roller rockers, thats my next step.
good luck

 

[silver69]

Go to the comp cams website and get teh roller cam (smooth or mild idle) and call them with the par tnumber and you can get the cam alone. go to a pull a part or similar scrapyard and open up a 5.0 86-99 and get the spyder tray and lifter tie bars(10-20bucks), go to advance auto parts (or similar store) and get roller lifters for a 86-99 5.0( lifter bores for 289/302/5.0/351W&351C are all the same)and boom- you have the retro cam kit for less than 1/2 price.
Roller rockers are free hp and helps the engine run cooler - get em. I bought the kit because I did not know better but now i do so maybe you can save some bucks for something else you want.
Joe

 

[t3mp3st003]

Will the torker work if its my DD? And do roller rockers mount just like the stock pedestal ones or what?

Edit- this cam?
http://www.compperformancegroupstor...roduct_Code=32-221-3&Category_Code=F351HFTCHI

 

[PaulS]

YOu will not get any downshift into the lower gears unless you have the "kick-down" linkage set up properly. At wide open throttle you have to have less than .060" movement on the downshift cable / rod.

 

[silver69]

more like this COMP Cams: Magnum, 270HR <br> Mild Street Performance, Slightly Noticeable Lope at Idle
no you need screw in studs and pedastal mount roller rockers.

 

[t3mp3st003]

In the notes on that link it says that I need to modify my cylinder heads?
And the only roller rockers with pedestal mounts are the scorpion ones that run 240$. How would one be able to use something like the Harland Sharp ones?

 

[t3mp3st003]

Also, with the hydraulic roller cam I need hydraulic roller lifters as well? What exactly does the vertical bar connecting them do? And I'll need special length
pushrods too huh?

I'm looking to spend about 600-700 dollars on the engine itself right now. I want it to be a pretty loud, "lumpy" idle, and I'm trying to get about 400HP out of it. Suggestions?

 

[silver69]

step to the next grind then, and the machining is easy as installing a stud mount kit into the heads. This whole roller this can get costly on the front end but if you look at the specs on the roller cam it is FAR more aggressive than the hyd flat tappett grinds wich will put you closer to the 400+ hp you want but it can be done with a regular cam too dont get me wrong. no matter what cam - roller lifters are worth 15-20 hp.

 

[t3mp3st003]

Thanks, I was talking with this guy at the autoparts store, I've been talking with him about my car for about a year now, and he says it would be better to go with a solid roller cam and solid roller lifters. Is adjusting the valve lash difficult?

 

[PaulS]

The only good reason for using solid lifters (whether they are roller or not) is for racing. Use the hydraulic lifters whenever you can.
It is not difficult to adjust lifters you just have to do it often enough that it becomes work and takes the fun out of driving the car (for me).
I have used cams in the past that were solid lifter cams and they made lots of power but not at any rpm you could actually use on the street (in a resonable driving situation). I had one 289 that would idle at 2200 rpm and got peak torque at 5500 rpm. The problem was it didn't produce much torque at all until you got the rpm to 3400. It was a lot of fun beyond that but i spent most of my street driving in first and second gear. I got tired of replacing plugs and "running" the valves. It would be different if I had been racing the car and never driving it on the street but I raced it rarely and got tired of the maintenance of driving it on the street.

 

[jgard07]

more like this COMP Cams: Magnum, 270HR <br> Mild Street Performance, Slightly Noticeable Lope at Idle
no you need screw in studs and pedastal mount roller rockers.[/quote]
You need one or the other, not both.

 

[jgard07]

The only good reason for using solid lifters (whether they are roller or not) is for racing. Use the hydraulic lifters whenever you can.
It is not difficult to adjust lifters you just have to do it often enough that it becomes work and takes the fun out of driving the car (for me).

This is completely false. Many engines came stock with solid flat tappet cams (Boss series engines, etc.). It is the design of the cam profile that determines the operating range, not the type of lifter. As far as always having to adjust solid lifters, this is another myth provided you use halfway decent parts in the valvetrain. If you buy cheap parts, especially cheap rockers such as the 'gold' colored ones, they tend to wear quickly and cause the lash to get loose. Buy quality parts and the adjustment will stay put.

 

[silver69]

you are right jgard I meant to type screw in studs and stud mount roller rockers - thank you

 

[airrocket]

Anyone use the Flat tappet Hydraulic Comp Cam and lifter kit Extreme Energy XE262H K32-242-4?

The kits includes most all valve train parts except the rockers and push rods.

COMP Cams K32-242-4 - COMP Cams Xtreme Energy Cam and Lifter Kits - Overview - SummitRacing.com

Looks like a good mild street cam to me. However I like just a little hint of idle lope. I'm trying to do a low budget build with good quality after market stamped steel rockers.
#CRN-52800-16

Based on a factory 351-CJ bottom end, rods and flat top pistons with 4V 64CC quench heads-polished exhaust ports. max rpm 6K.

I ran the factory 351-C stamp steel rockers for years revs up to 6K rpm never had issue with the rockers.

I can't justify the cost of a roller set-up for a low mileage occasional weekend cruise "fun machine". I like the torque it and forget stamp rocker.

I'm needing a good quality push rod of OEM or better quality.